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1Gen-TundraGeneral discussion forum for the 2000 to 2006 Toyota Tundra.
This is a discussion thread titled "Northeast cancer problem!", within the 1Gen-Tundra forum, part of the Truck Forums category.
Has anyone dealt with the horrible rust problem in the Northeast? I bought my truck from a guy in NH; when I put it up on the lift to change the fuel filter and change the oil in the diffs I couldn't believe how much of a pain it was dealing with all the surface rust! (Not a problem I ever had out in Colorado, even with a 20 year old truck!)
It took me over an hour to replace the fuel filter (after I broke the bolt on the filter bracket) with all the fittings rusted and frozen. Now I've got to figure out a way to drill out and re-bolt the bracket together.
The other problem I ran into is the front skid plate had two sheared off bolts, and I broke a third trying to take it off. So I wasn't able to change the front diff oil. Again, another drilling out and bolt replacement project.
On a different note, I ended up using the "oil filter into the bag" trick I read about on here. Thanks guys! If I hadn't read that I would have made a huge mess trying to change the filter with the skid plate on. The spark plug replacement tutorial was spot on as well! That went without a hitch.
Now I'm just debating whether or not to flush the tranny and replace with Mobil-1 or just drain the pan and refill the 4 quarts... I've got almost 60K on it. I'm thinking about putting one of those in-line trans filters on it too.
But after all the issues with rust, I'm becoming paranoid about messing with stuff underneath.
Has anyone dealt with the horrible rust problem in the Northeast? I bought my truck from a guy in NH; when I put it up on the lift to change the fuel filter and change the oil in the diffs I couldn't believe how much of a pain it was dealing with all the surface rust! (Not a problem I ever had out in Colorado, even with a 20 year old truck!)
It took me over an hour to replace the fuel filter (after I broke the bolt on the filter bracket) with all the fittings rusted and frozen. Now I've got to figure out a way to drill out and re-bolt the bracket together.
The other problem I ran into is the front skid plate had two sheared off bolts, and I broke a third trying to take it off. So I wasn't able to change the front diff oil. Again, another drilling out and bolt replacement project.
On a different note, I ended up using the "oil filter into the bag" trick I read about on here. Thanks guys! If I hadn't read that I would have made a huge mess trying to change the filter with the skid plate on. The spark plug replacement tutorial was spot on as well! That went without a hitch.
Now I'm just debating whether or not to flush the tranny and replace with Mobil-1 or just drain the pan and refill the 4 quarts... I've got almost 60K on it. I'm thinking about putting one of those in-line trans filters on it too.
But after all the issues with rust, I'm becoming paranoid about messing with stuff underneath.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
-Micah
I live in Ontario and its as bad or worse here than anywhere for rust! I've had cars in the past where the whole floor pans are rusted through let alone any bolts.
I bought an 05 Tundra and after the first winter I looked under and all the bolts,axle, and frame welds I spray with wd40 every few months.
At least the body itself doesn't rust like they use to because of the high tech electro coating of todays cars.
My only suggestion is if you know you'll be taking a bolt off, spray it with Liquid Wrench a few hours before.
My only suggestion is if you know you'll be taking a bolt off, spray it with Liquid Wrench a few hours before.
Ditto,
The bolts for the tranny pan should be ok, they are usually pretty tough stuff, you could consider replacing them with new ones after you've pulled them out (if they are badly rusted).
I made sure to oil spray my truck when I got it, looks pretty good underneath, will spray it again this fall.
What kind of oil do you spray the underside with? Does that cause an ugly oil patch in front of your house?
I wonder if doing something like that would help my truck since it already is pretty rusty underneath...
The BEST way to keep the rust away is to keep the chassis and undercarraige CLEAN. That DOES mean washing your truck when it's 20 degrees out. It's worth it. Not cleaning under there makes the mess you've got and then the body is shot before the engine is dead.
In your case, your already rusted. There's no good way to recovery from that other than removing the whole body from the frame and refinishing/painting everything. Just try to stay on top of it and watch the body- make sure rust bubbles don't start around the fenders.
Back in the day, people actually used to spray diesel under their cars to keep the road salt/sand out! I live for the day an auto manufacturer actually makes a rust-proof vehicle. Out west and south you guys have no idea how bad it is.... A car/truck only lasts about 10 years max on the road because of the rust.
Ah yes. I had a Nissan Pathfinder for 10 years. It was an excellent vehicle. However, when I began to literally get holes in my floor, brake lines, clutch components, etc, it had to go. The Northeast is horrible on your car if you don't wash it well. I'm in Florida now, and my Sequoia is fairly rusty underneath, but nothing serious. I tow boats into the Gulf of Mexico occasionally, and I make sure to thouroughly wash the underbody very well every time.
__________________
1988 Nissan 300zx 5sd 71,000 miles
1995 Nissan Pathfinder 4x4 5spd 90,000 miles (sold, frame gone)
2001 Sequoia Limited 4x4 119,000 miles (some electronic issues, manifolds, otherwise solid and not a single rattle woot)
I'll have to keep up with washing the underside of my vehicles while I live up here in new england. I'm in the Military so thankfully I'll only be here 3-4 years then get to move back to the real world. (let the flaming begin from the diehard new englanders. lol)
I thought rust was pretty bad when I lived in VA, Man! it doesn't even compare.
What kind of oil do you spray the underside with? Does that cause an ugly oil patch in front of your house?
I wonder if doing something like that would help my truck since it already is pretty rusty underneath...
There are different types, back in the 80s, the oil spray would smell while it burned off the exhaust, it would drip, and driving out of the garage was like being on ice.
These days, there's dripless oil sprays, there's no odor, and it costs around $50.00. I get it done once a year, always in early fall, before there's any issues of salt or ice.
There are pros and cons for dripless, I've heard it doesn't get into the tiny crevasses, but I haven't noticed any rust so far on my 2004.
If you already have rust, its possible that the oil will prevent future rust, but the existing rust is yours forever.
You can grind it, sandblast it, sand it..but often it comes back in the same spot. Truck wheel wells seem to attract the majority, and on extended cabs, the back part of the cab gets it in spades.
Northeast cancer problem!
(let the flaming begin from the diehard new englanders. lol)
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