at 40+ mph i can feel and hear vibrations coming from underneath my (2002 tundra, auto, v8, 80,000miles) the vibrations are only felt and heard when ever im on the gas but not when im coasting.
i also recently notcied my emergency brake line was loose cause my posts on the drum brake were fozen on the engaged position, after a lot o WD40 i managed to push them back in so that they were not engaging, but now there is an incrediblr dead spot at the beginning of the brake stroke when i apply the peddle that was never there before.
If not the rear drums, this is characteristic of a driveshaft u-joint failure. Check the u-joint at the rear axle pinion yoke. You may need to un-bolt it from the yoke and drop it down to check it out.
i would be really nice of one of the knowledgable folks would post a definitive description of what a failed carrier bearing or bushing or whatever it is called looks like. i have read a lot of posts where folks say it is sloppy or the driveshaft hangs down a 1/2 lower then center or the bolt pattern is off. how does toyota diagnose this part has failed and does it take special tools to align it properly or diagnose and fix it? diagrams or excerpts from the manual appreciated.
as for the rear brakes, a couple of weeks back, someone posted their procedure for diss-assembly of the parking brake brake mechanism at the rear wheels. they took it apart, thoroughly cleaned it, lubed it up and put it all back together. i think that is what you need to do. also, read this about getting your back brakes adjusted once you've cleaned them up and you shouldn't have any more pedal feel problems.
i would be really nice of one of the knowledgable folks would post a definitive description of what a failed carrier bearing or bushing or whatever it is called looks like. i have read a lot of posts where folks say it is sloppy or the driveshaft hangs down a 1/2 lower then center or the bolt pattern is off. how does toyota diagnose this part has failed and does it take special tools to align it properly or diagnose and fix it? diagrams or excerpts from the manual appreciated.
If this were the case and there was a problem with the differential resulting in too much backlash (too much 'slack' essentially, between the ring & pinion gears), you can check for this at the same time you are inspecting your rear u-joint at the pinion yoke.
BLOCK THE WHEELS.
Unbolt the straps holding the u-joint to the pinion yoke and let the driveshaft hang down. BE cAREFUL not to let the caps of the joint fall off! Tape them on if you want. Check the u-joint- does it turn freely in all directions?
To check the pinion gear for a potentially loose pinion bearing, while you have the driveshaft off, try to move the pinion yoke around (up and down, side to side). You should only be able to rotate it slightly. It should just turn a little tiny bit, but not in and out or up and down.
If it's tight, not a bearing problem. If it's loose, you need to tighten the pinion nut, which is right under the pinion yoke. the torque specs should be on this site somewhere, but it's TIGHT- over 100 ft-lbs.
Hope that helps, not as hard as it sounds and you'll get familiar with your drivetrain in the process.
at 40+ mph i can feel and hear vibrations coming from underneath my (2002 tundra, auto, v8, 80,000miles) the vibrations are only felt and heard when ever im on the gas but not when im coasting.
i also recently notcied my emergency brake line was loose cause my posts on the drum brake were fozen on the engaged position, after a lot o WD40 i managed to push them back in so that they were not engaging, but now there is an incrediblr dead spot at the beginning of the brake stroke when i apply the peddle that was never there before.
help!!!!!!
Welcome to TundraSolutions.
If I understand your description correctly, you need to overhaul (clean and lube) your rear brakes. It sounds like the lube at the points where the brake shoes contact the backing plate has completely dried up and may in fact be rusted. This is the primary area that needs to be cleaned and lubed followed by the starwheel adjuster.
I just overhauled my rear brakes for the second time a couple days ago because the lube had dried up since the previous overhaul. The improvement is huge. I did the first overhaul 15k miles ago and used anti-seize for the lube. This time I used synthetic brake lube which is more appropriate and should do much better.
The most difficult part of the overhaul is detaching the main spring from the brake shoes. That bugger is strong and a little hard to grab hold of. The rest is very easy to do.
Good luck.
Paul
__________________ Completed Mods:
S&S long tube headers
Brembo rotors
TSB caliper upgrade
Akebono ProAct ceramic pads
Stainless steel braided brake lines
Total Chaos steering rack bushings
Alignment to DJ's specs
Century cap
Line-X
XM Commander satellite radio w/USA Spec dual aux input adapter
Future Mods:
Rearview camera system
Sound deadener
Fusion Drive
Flux Capacitor Control Unit (FCCU)
Last edited by Picasso; 10-06-2006 at 10:15 AM.
Reason: Added content
drivetrain vibration + rear brake ???
Linear Mode
