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I just purchased some bilsteins to replace the stock garbage that is on my 2001 4wd.
I have done lots of searching and reading and I can't find any instructions on here. Can anyone give me a step-by step? Should I just go to a shop and have someone do it? My buddy has done a few of his jeeps and said he'd give me a hand, but I don't want to mess anything up. Any help is appreciated.
I replaced my coilovers in about 45 min and a 6 pack.
INSTALLING COILOVERS:
1- jack truck up and put jack stands under neath frame
2- Remove wheel
3- Un-bolt sway bar from lower control arm
4- Un-bolt lower bolt on coilover (17mm)
5- Un-bolt 3 upper bolts on coilover
6- Slide it out through the bottom
7- slide new one in aligning holes on top
8- Hand tight the 3 on top and run lower bolt through
9- tighten all 4 bolts with RED locktite
10- re-attatch sway bar ( I completely removed mine and tightened coilover a little more to make up for the additional sway)
11- Install wheel
You'll need a set of spring compressors.
removing steps, already posted.
For the sway bar end links, disconnect them while they are on the ground. Less tension and less of a chance it stripping.
One important thing keep in mind is the orientation of the top plate and the lower shock mount. You want to make sure it's aligned the same way before removing the strut. Makes it easier so you don't have to fuss on trying to get the top plate mounted and have the lower part of the strut mounted. Otherwise, you'll be trying to turn the strut in order for it to line up.
No need for a spring compressor. And disconnect the sway bar with the wheel off the ground so there is tension on the stud that will just spin if there is no tension.
When I first changed out my coilover assembly, I ended up stripping the driver side nut of the top end link with the wheels off the ground. Set it down on the pass side and used a socket and an open end to remove the nut.Quote:
Originally Posted by trfytoy
Just my experience.....
Where did you order your bilsteins?
Yes you do need a spring compressor but you don't need to unbolt the sway bar. I just did mine 3 months ago and besides having a tard of a friend "try" and help me it went pretty smooth. The real pain is remembering to make sure the top plate is aligned correctly.
Here's what i did:
1) truck on lift
2) remove tires
3) remove lower bolt, remove 3 top bolts, slide assembly out
4) on bench, install spring compressor and compress till pressure's off top plate
5) install vice grips on shaft to keep from spinning while using impact gun to remove retaining nut on shock shaft
6) put spring on new shock, install top plate, align top plate, tighten retaining nut, slowly release spring compressor and make sure ends of springs in correctly position
7) slide shock back into position, install top 3 bolts then bottom bolt and torque to spec.
8) repeat for other side.
Thats funny because I have done 4 Tundras and 3 Tacomas all with OUT a spring compressor. The sway bar is 2 nuts, al lot easier to drop than deal with spring compressors. You guys are over-engineering the process. IMHOQuote:
Originally Posted by ICON
Edit: And I did them all by myself without a tard friend in about 45min. give or take.
You did aftermaket coilovers without a spring compressor or you changed the actual strut/shock without one (reusing the OE spring)? Coilovers would definately be doable, suggesting it for changing struts seems suicidal/impossible. I have a hard time believing the spring is not still under tremendous load even with the strut fully extended. Maybe I'm wrong?
I got the impression this was a strut change, not a coilover swap. Sorry if I misunderstood.
Unbolting end-link isn't absolutely necessary, but I would recommend it. One more step, but it will make it easier in the end. I still had to use some leverage to get them on at that.
I took my assembly along with the new strut inserts to a local shop and payed $10 bucks total to have them swapped in 10 minutes. Pretty cheap ins. against a face full of spring. The spring compressor I rented the first time wouldn't fit between the coils anyway. They were too close together and/or the lip on the jaw of the comp. was too tall. Probably best.
All my experience is on a Seq., I was told they are almost identical though... Sorry if I'm just adding confusion.
LET'S BE CLEAR ABOUT THIS If you are swapping out the complete shock -spring unit you do NOT need a spring compressor. If you are only changing the shock and re-using the spring then you DO need a spring compressor.Quote:
Originally Posted by doc caliban
NEVER remove the center bolt at the top of the shock/spring unit without first installing a spring compressor and tightening it down until you can see that the spring is loose on the upper seat. ONLY THEN is it safe to remove the center bolt. If you don't understand this process PLEASE --do not attempt this process as serious injury can result.
Oh i got ya, I thought he was replacing the WHOLE coilover assembly. Yea to replace the strut you will need a compressor. To intall 2.5" longer coilovers you will not.
On my 2002, TRD Tundra 4X4 access cab, I had to replace my Bilstien struts at 15K miles due to the lower bushings being shot, plus one of the rear Bilstien shocks due to leakage. Done under warranty. At about 18K I installed Daystar 2 1/2" lift and a rear add a leaf, and had to go through the Strut swap process. Not too bad with a good spring compressor. I took off the Bilstien rears which were not working worth a damn for me. I live 3 miles up a dirt road on a mountain, and haul my tools in my truck. Now at 66K my strut bushings are totally shot, and have been bad since 40K. Anyone know the most durable, best performing strut for my situation? I use my truck as a truck, and have not been at all impressed with the suspension. I have owned and driven 2 toyota trucks, a '93 and an '81 since 1981. The '81 was the best of the bunch. I think the Tundra is missing a lot, and that Toyata missed the point of a bigger truck that doesn't hold up or is not able to carry a decent load with out falling apart. Oh Yeah, I also have 2 huge cracks in the front part of my bed, behind the cab that I now have to deal with. What happened Toyota? Anyway, what's the best strut for the buck besides these delicate dainty Bilstiens?:mad::eek: