06 Tundra DC Lighted Running Boards

johnnyp0_4 · #1 (**permalink**) 10-15-2006, 01:04 PM

Hi all,

I could really use some help from the forum on how to connect the factory lighted running boards on a 06 Tundra DC. I found the installation doc here on the forum. The installation doc states to connect a T-Tap to the red wire on S3 pin 2, and the another T-Tap to the blue/black wire on S3 pin 1.

I have followed the instructions from the installation doc, but the lights on the boards still do not work. If someone who has done this could take a picture of exactly where I am to connect up the wires, it would help me out greatly.

Thanks,
johnnyp0_4

johnnyp0_4 · #2 (**permalink**) 10-19-2006, 08:03 AM

Hi all,

I could really use some help from the forum on how to connect the factory lighted running boards on a 06 Tundra DC. I found the installation doc here on the forum. The installation doc states to connect a T-Tap to the red wire on S3 pin 2, and the another T-Tap to the blue/black wire on S3 pin 1.

I have followed the instructions from the installation doc, but the lights on the boards still do not work. If someone who has done this could take a picture of exactly where I am to connect up the wires, it would help me out greatly.

Thanks,
johnnyp0_4

JustBNme · #3 (**permalink**) 10-19-2006, 10:51 AM

Sorry, no pic to show you

, but part of the secret (as I found by following the wiring diagrams--also from here) not evident in those instructions is the "empty" comic strip bubble on the last page. Whether it ever contained any text or not is a mystery

, but it points approximately to the S3 connector described in the instructions. It would also have been nice if those Electrical Connections instructions on page 3 told you exactly what S3 is

.

Well, it turns out S3 is the lamp socket connector for that little courtesy lamp under the edge of the dash, between the steering column and driver's side kick panel. As much as I dislike using T-taps, it seems Toyota (and probably the port as well) thinks they're just dandy, because once I saw all the T-taps already in use

behind that kick panel, 2 more on those lamp socket leads would just be another raindrop in the pond

. I'd prefer connecting up spade connectors on wiring panels, but after following the wiring diagrams back to other points of the circuit, I didn't find any better alternatives

. Suggestion--put the T-taps as far from the S3 connector as you can, and stagger them at slightly different distances. There's not much of a wiring lead to work with, but you should be able to manage an inch or thereabouts of length between T-taps and S3.

I also had concerns that the fuse that came with the boards was 5 amps

, the bulbs had no indication

for wattage or bulb type--thus, unknown current draw--and the T-taps were connecting to such a small diameter (and current capacity) wire. So far, the boards have been wired and working for a couple of months; nothing's melted, flickered, or smelled funny; and everything seems to be OK

.

The cool part

is the RB lights follow the "behavior" of the interior lights, including dimming

. In addition to the current draw, I also had initial concerns that adding the "load" of the RB lights in parallel with the courtesy lamp would affect that lamp's intensity and possibly the timing of that soft-off dimming. Somehow, the lighting controller apparently compensates for such changes, because I can't say I noticed any significant difference

.

Good luck

and post back if you need more info.

ravenhog · #4 (**permalink**) 10-19-2006, 06:23 PM

Th S3 pin is actually the little light that lights up the area under the dash. If i remember correctly its right next to the upper part of the e-break. Hope that helps.

johnnyp0_4 · #5 (**permalink**) 10-19-2006, 10:40 PM

JustBNme,

Thanks for the information. This is exactly what I need. I tried to follow the wiring diagrams, but I must have taken a wrong turn somwhere around the tail lights.

When I was under the dash, I saw the little courtesy lamp sitting there, but kept on looking for the S3 connector

, because I knew no one would hook something up to that little old teeny-tiny light

under the dash.

Now I understand why the T-taps were the small ones. What I thought was S3 had a big 12AWG wire coming from it. I looked at it, then looked at the little T-tap. I thought there is no way that that little T-tap will fit around that big red wire. But, being from the if-it-doesn't-fit-force-it or get-a-bigger-hammer school of auto improvement, I went ahead and gave it a try anyway. Lucky for me, I could not even get the T-tap to close around the wire. It was at this point that I decieded to listen to that little voice in my head that tries to keep me out of trouble, and came to the Tundra Solutions Forum for help

With this new found knowledge, I will be hooking them up tomorrow, and will let you know the outcome. It will make my wife very happy to actually get to see the lights on the running boards work.

Once again,
Thanks much

06tundradclimited · #6 (**permalink**) 10-19-2006, 11:01 PM

johnnyp0_4,

I also had the same problem. As JustBNme said, the courtesy light under the dash is the key. Works great. Take a look in my photo gallery for pics of my lighted boards. Which ones did you get?

TS Support · #7 (**permalink**) 10-20-2006, 05:12 AM

Duplicate threads merged

JustBNme · #8 (**permalink**) 10-20-2006, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnnyp0_4

. . . I tried to follow the wiring diagrams, but I must have taken a wrong turn somwhere around the tail lights.

Yeah, I can understand how it could've happened. Interestingly, the interior illumination is on at least 3 circuits, IIRC. Overhead/dome lighting is separate from the door-mounted courtesy lamps (not too surprising), but the front doors are on a different circuit

from the rear doors, which I discovered after pulling a fuse (in the engine compartment) whose name would make you assume incorrectly

that it kills power to everything you might want deactivated while tinkerin' with the RB lighting.

While by now you're probably beyond the point where it matters, there's a few things that others may find helpful. I'd seen some threads here about owners finding melted/deformed components in their cargo lamps

due to heat and extended "on" times. Since you'll be working with doors open for awhile, don't forget to hit your cargo lamp switch to keep it off when you don't need it, especially if it's a hot day.

I also deviated from the instructions a bit when running the RB wiring into the cab area. To get through the underbody grommets, I used a leather-punch tool for making round holes

, enlarging the holes as needed with smaller followup cuts but keeping the round shape, until the RB harness fit snugly through. If you're really paranoid about water penetration after that, you'd only need a dab of sealant inside the harness jacket, at the point of passage through the grommet. If you think there's a possibility you'll need to run other accessory wiring harnesses through the same grommet, keep your hole(s) off-center.

Once inside, the passenger side wiring harness can be run with less "snaking around" than shown

if you use an electrician's fish line/tape to run high and flat against the front cowl area, staying out of the way of moving components for ventilation. There's plenty of extra length on the passenger side harness (not so true on the driver's side, though

) and that route requires even less length.

Lastly, once you start buttoning everything back together, it gets crowded pretty quickly under the front door scuff plates, so take extra precautions

to ensure you've fully inserted the screw posts into their receivers before tightening the screws.

That's about all I recall for now. Maybe I should put together a supplement for those instructions. Someday, maybe. Looking forward to hearing your results.

johnnyp0_4 · #9 (**permalink**) 10-23-2006, 10:29 PM

JustBNme,

I wanted to give you a quick update. Your instructions for hooking up the running boards were right on the money. I found the little light, hooked up the T-taps, and presto we have lighted running boards. Thanks again for your help. Without it, I would have been forced to take the truck to the dealer and have them hook the lights up. I took a picture of the light location. Once I figure out how to upload a photo, I will post it.
johnnyp0_4