You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
1Gen-TundraGeneral discussion forum for the 2000 to 2006 Toyota Tundra.
This is a discussion thread titled "Soft brakes and creeping", within the 1Gen-Tundra forum, part of the Truck Forums category.
I had seen some posts about this a while back and I was wondering if anyone had the same problem and had taken the truck in to see if there is anything the dealer can do about it? At times I can be sitting at a light and the truck will start to ease off. I think it is when the a/c compressor cycles or idle changes. It also stops a lot quicker and has a harder pedal on the second pump of the brake pedal when coming to a stop. I have been driving for 30 years and have never had to apply that much pressure to keep a vehical stopped.I have asked other Tundra owners I have ran across and most of them say the have noticed the same thing.
It is not that your brakes are letting go, it is that the engine is speeding up due to the A/C compressor cutting in. I think the speed up is too much (given the size of the v-8 engine) and the torque converter really wants to start "hooking up" when it does this. Yes, this can bite you until you realize what is going on.
On the second issue about brake pedal, totally normal. You may get a little better brake pedal by manually adjusting your rear brakes. The difference between the two pumps is mostly in rear brake shoe travel.
I've experienced this phenomenon several times as well, but can't say I would attribute it to any significant change in engine speed. It does seem to have some relationship to energizing/de-energizing the A/C clutch, but the tach doesn't really "flinch" when it happens. IMO, an engine speed change would take longer to change and settle at the new rpm than the relatively short length of time the pedal seems to soften. The first few times it happened, I thought I'd been gently bumped from the vehicle behind me at the light, but quickly realized it had to be something else when that other vehicle was still approaching or not there at all!
It feels more like a momentary reduction of vacuum assist to the power brake system. Not sure what the relationship is there, since the A/C clutch is operated electrically, not vacuum assisted. It's been a while since the last occurrence, so I may be compensating by subconsciously adjusting my old ways to adapt to the new vehicle.
On the second issue about brake pedal, totally normal. You may get a little better brake pedal by manually adjusting your rear brakes. The difference between the two pumps is mostly in rear brake shoe travel.
Wow I noticed the same thing. When I initially depress the brake, it will go down about half way and I come to a stop. If I lift off and immediately depress again, the brake is holding and stopped about 1/4 of the way down...
__________________
2008 Tacoma Access Cab TRD Sport 6 speed
When I first experienced this, a couple days after I bought the truck, I was in the drive-up of a Hardees and I thought the woman behind me had tapped my trailer hitch... lol
However, now that I know what the experience is and what to feel for, I have noticed that it occurres very regularly when stopped at a light.
I have this problem with the weak brake feeling. It's rather un-nerving, especially when a quick stop is needed. Happened to me this morning, it felt like I had the pedal smashed in the floor and just wasn't slowing down quick enough. Scared me.
I do notice that the 2nd pump after the initial braking is MUCH firmer. It does make me wonder if it isn't a real problem and just not the nature of the vehicle.
Almost sounds like a bad master cylinder. This usually happens in older cars where the seals in the master cylinder leaks and the fluid can no longer hold the pressure. If it is the seals, when you are at a light, your pedal will sink slowly to the floor.
__________________
05 Salsa Red Pearl DC
01 Honda Civic
95 Acura Integra
Its definitely normal but not normal, since my truck has 2,300 miles on it and isn't leaking anything. I'd be curious to see why Toyota engineered it this way.
__________________
2008 Tacoma Access Cab TRD Sport 6 speed
It seems we might be discussing 2 potentially related but possibly separate issues--one while already stopped--the other while coming to a stop.
The only issue I experience is while already stopped, and happens so fast that there's no time to "pump" the pedal another time. Like a normal "emergency" braking reflex, an increase in foot pressure already applied to the pedal suffices to stop the vehicle within an inch(es) of where it slipped.
In older vehicles, I've experienced the problem with a leaking master cylinder (and other brake line leaks, too), and agree that in such cases, the pedal will travel to the floor, requiring a pump or more to brake effectively. However, if that were the case here--and I don't necessarily think it is--then I'd expect:
1) the pedal should continue to go to the floor following each pump, and
2) there's likely to be some evidence of loss of brake fluid.
Someone experiencing the latter issue may correct me, but I have the impression the brake pedal pressure remains firm following that second application after one pump of the pedal. Thus, the mystery continues . . .
I was driving it at lunch and paid really close attention to how it was braking. Traveling down a 35mph road and slowly applying brakes does slow it down, but there is definite "mush" on the pedal. I pump it again just to see what happens and it IS firmer. I let off of it and travel a bit further and retry the brakes in the same manner and I get the same result.
I continued and waited for the traffic behind to turn off. Once it did, I tried a panick brake. Now, it should have been a hard braking action but it just wasn't there. I laid on them hard. Hard enough to where the ABS should have kicked in but it didn't.
I tried travelling again and trying a quick stop (not panick brake) and tried to pump. The 2nd pump is ALWAYS a lot firmer.
I don't feel that this should be braking in this manner as it could be a problem in a dangerous situation.
I thought it could have been the 20's having more rotational mass, but I don't think it should be affecting me to the degree that it is.
The truck is BRAND new and the brake resevoir is full before anyone ask.
**NOTE** I haven't noticed any creeping but will watch for it. I'll turn the defogger and AC on to see if I experience this creeping.
Same symptoms on my truck. I adjusted the rear drums manually, no change. the second time I press the pedal, it is firmer. Sorry, no advice on how to fix it.
Honestly there's a wonderful book that came with your trucks called the owners manual. This brake thing is normal and is in the book. You guys need to spend a little time reading it.
Honestly there's a wonderful book that came with your trucks called the owners manual. This brake thing is normal and is in the book. You guys need to spend a little time reading it.
Wanna send me your ... mine never came with one !!!!! I am sure there are lots of people out there who don't have owners manuals
__________________ Extreme ... Life's to Short Not Too Be
As a toyota tech and also a new owner of an 06 DC 4x4, the first thing I did @ 300 miles was adjust the rear drums under warranty. I got paid 1.5 hours for both sides. I got 24 clicks on both sides which still left them slightly loose. You don't want them too tight or they will warp the drums. If you never adjust your rear brakes they will last over 100k if you do adjust them every 5k they will only last about 70-80k. This means your front brakes will last a little longer.
Soft brakes and creeping
Linear Mode
