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1Gen-TundraGeneral discussion forum for the 2000 to 2006 Toyota Tundra.
This is a discussion thread titled "Oil Change on '06 Tundra 101", within the 1Gen-Tundra forum, part of the Truck Forums category.
Now that I have the warranty worries cleared up, I will be changing my own oil. Probably will purchase a handful of Toyota filters at 1 time and see if the dealership will give me a discount to do so (I know they can if they want to).
Other than that, I assume I don't have to change out the washer on the drain plug every time to stay w/in warranty specs? Also, I would assume with the top mounted/facing down oil filter, I can drain from the pan and then easily remove filter last without any oil splattering all over the place?
I would assume my engine would probably love some nice syn oil to run on. 5W30 for sure. Any input? So here is what I'll prolly go with:
1. Mobil 1
2. Castrol Syntec
3. Castrol GTX
4. Quaker State
5. Valvoline <-------- Not! that stuff is garbage~
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2006 black Toyota Tundra Access Cab SR5 with 6 speed manual. K&N drop-in filter, RF Power coaxials, upgraded hitch, cargo net, and wrap around tint.
Last edited by Cosmo459sx; 03-09-2007 at 10:55 AM.
Reason: forgot to add
Before this thread gets out of hand, I'll be the first to tell you, it's mostly preference. All synthetics do a good job. You will also have some saying regular oil is just as good, just change it at 3K etc.
I like doing my oil changes every 10K+ miles. Life is easier.
Honestly, I'll prolly go syn and change every 5K. I know amsoil is good stuff (pros use it), but the additives have been rumored to cause catylitic problems down the road. And its expensive and harder to find. I can find Mobil 1 anywhere and sometimes on sale.
I'll prolly go syn due to living in hot FL, driving in extreme traffic, and to give better anti-sludge protection.
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2006 black Toyota Tundra Access Cab SR5 with 6 speed manual. K&N drop-in filter, RF Power coaxials, upgraded hitch, cargo net, and wrap around tint.
You can order it right off their website. I wont argue it's expensive at all. But I figure if it costs me $115 (case of oil and filter) for 20K miles, that's relatively cheap if I were to use regular oil and change every 3K.
Here is a good deal for OEM oil filters $40 for 10 of them including shipping
or $3.70 per plus shipping my stealer charged me $5.95 + tax each and I bought 4 of them
this is the best deal I've seen and I did buy a case from them with no problems at all
So is what I said about the downward facing filter true?
And does the washer from the drain plug need to be replaced every time to meet warranty specs?
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2006 black Toyota Tundra Access Cab SR5 with 6 speed manual. K&N drop-in filter, RF Power coaxials, upgraded hitch, cargo net, and wrap around tint.
So is what I said about the downward facing filter true?
And does the washer from the drain plug need to be replaced every time to meet warranty specs?
Yes. I just changed mine last weekend, didn't spill a drop. I didn't change the washer either and its not leaking whatsoever. But I picked up a bag of 10 so I'll be all set in the future.
I buy the cheapest oil Walmart has and change oil and filter every 3000 miles. I did this with my last 91 Toy 4x4 AC pick-up and sold it, running like a top, with 198,431 miles.
Unless you are racing Im not sure the synthetics are worth it.
Yes. I just changed mine last weekend, didn't spill a drop. I didn't change the washer either and its not leaking whatsoever. But I picked up a bag of 10 so I'll be all set in the future.
Thanks, I appreciate it! How much did the dealership charge for 10 of those?
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2006 black Toyota Tundra Access Cab SR5 with 6 speed manual. K&N drop-in filter, RF Power coaxials, upgraded hitch, cargo net, and wrap around tint.
I assume you are talking about a brand new tundra .
I think i have read a few times that you are not suppose to use synthetic until after the first 10,000 miles. You might want to look into it. I personaly have not spent the time to research if it is a myth or not. However to play it safe i am runing Castrol GTX for now. After 10,000 synthitic all the way.
FXNGLAS you seem pretty knowledgeable what have you heard? And do you really do your oil change every 10,000?
And to answer the next responder.... I doubt there would be any drawback to using full syn from first turn through death of engine at any point. Conventional wisdom would tell me so, so much that some high performance engines never see anything but synthetic. Just doesn't make sense. But please, enlighten me on the topic. Maybe there is something more to it in this case.
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2006 black Toyota Tundra Access Cab SR5 with 6 speed manual. K&N drop-in filter, RF Power coaxials, upgraded hitch, cargo net, and wrap around tint.
Yes. I just changed mine last weekend, didn't spill a drop. I didn't change the washer either and its not leaking whatsoever. But I picked up a bag of 10 so I'll be all set in the future.
Is there some special process you are using cause whenever I change my oil, I still get a significant amount that comes out even after draining the oil from the bottom at the oil plug.
__________________ 2006 Toyota Tundra Double Cab 4x4 Limited (Spectra Blue Mica) -Blue Anodized Valve Stem Caps
-Undercover Tonneau Cover
-Ventureshield Transparent Bra
-Hunter Brush Guard Black
-Magnaflow 14586 Stainless Steel Exhaust
-Stainless Steel Exhaust Tip
Is there some special process you are using cause whenever I change my oil, I still get a significant amount that comes out even after draining the oil from the bottom at the oil plug.
Yeah, put a bucket under it. Maybe I miss read the first post, he wanted to know if oil splatters all over the place, which it doesn't....we'll at least mine didn't.
For the past several years now I've been using a Fumoto drain valve on the oil pan and it sure makes it easier.No crush washers to buy or bolt to drop in the bucket of hot oil! Get on their web site to learn more..... Fumoto drain valve.