[dyogim]

Thanks to Lon(creator of Tundrasolutions.com) for allowing me to do this write-up in order to receive a free AEM Brute Force Intake system. The AEM model number is 21-8401. This is specific to 00-03 Tundras and Sequoias with the 4.7L V8 motor. There are two models. The one I received, the intake pipe is silver in color. The other model has a polished intake pipe.

Tools needed for the install: Either a 1/4" or 3/8" ratchet will do, 10mm deep socket, 12 mm regular socket, 12” extension(didn’t have one so, I used 2 6” extensions), flat head screwdriver and a philip screwdriver.

(Click on the thumbnails to view a larger picture. All but one pic is 1024x768)

The picture below shows all the parts that are included in order to install the kit. As well as a cleaning kit for the filter. My first thoughts of the kit was, that this is just another intake system, just like any others out on the market. I’ll post my review at the end of this.



The next photo shows the stock air box. I originally modified my stock air box by cutting a huge hole on one side to allow more air. I also had a TRD drop-in filter. I have no complaints so far. Other than, I shouldn’t have cut that big hole. Anyways, onto the rest of the pics.



I first removed the throttle body cover using a 10mm deep socket. This allowed me to gain access to the hose clamp that holds the stock intake pipe to the throttle body.



The hose clamp is loosened with a phillip screwdriver. You can also use an 8mm socket.



Next is the removal of the MAF(mass air flow sensor) with the use of the same phillip screwdriver.



With a 10mm socket, I removed the bolt holding the AC line to the stock intake pipe.



To remove the bolt that holds the stock air box, a 10mm socket and 2 6” extensions were used to get to the one closest to the headlight.



The next two are located on the opposite side of the airbox. I only used one 6” extension and the 10mm socket. A few more things to disconnect and the intake system will be ready to remove.



Disconnect all four of the hoses that are connected to the stock intake system. 3 out of the 4 hoses will be replaced with new ones provided in the kit. The only hose you keep is the power steering air hose. That’s the one on the side separate from the other three.



Once everything is disconnected and unbolted the complete stock air intake unit can be removed. You may have to tug a little on the stock elbow to remove it. Here’s a pic of it removed.



The lower tab of the heat shield will be held in place and bolted down to the wiper motor relay bracket. Use a 12mm socket to remove it.



With a 10mm socket, this is where you’ll need to remove the stock bolt from the power steering reservoir bracket. The heat shield will mount onto this.



I got this picture from Off-Roadweb.com. I forgot to take a picture of the rubber edges installed prior to installing it into the truck. So with that in mind, install the two rubber insulators on the top of the heat shield and the rubber edging on the edge that is towards the front of the truck.



Mount the heat shield onto the stock location of the power steering reservoir bracket. Then tighten with a 10mm socket



The lower tab of the heat shield is bolted and tightened down with a 12mm socket. I had a problem here with the hole not lining up correctly. I had to persuade the bolt in with a little bending of the heat shield at the crease.



After installing the heat shield, ensure the wire, located in the picture below, has enough clearance as to not be pinched by the heat shield.



Next is to install the new AEM elbow. However, before doing so, this would be a good time to clean out your throttle body(TB) with a paper towel and TB cleaner. Install the elbow but, do not tighten the hose clamp.



With the rubber mount included in the kit, install it into the location where the stock air box bolts into (closest to the motor).



Before you install the intake piping, run a paper towel through one end to the other or blow some air through it to clean out any debris. Then install the 2 rubber grommets and the 2 hose fittings. It’ll be a lot easier to do now instead of in the engine bay.



Now, install the intake pipe into the new elbow, don’t tighten the hose clamp. You’ll see why later.



Here’s a pic of the intake bracket mounted onto the rubber mount. Place the washer then the nut on top of the bracket and again don’t tighten it down yet.



Reattach all the hose fittings onto the proper fittings with the new hoses(total of 3) and hose clamps. Each hose is a different size, so you shouldn’t have a problem attaching the wrong hose to the wrong fitting. Then tighten the hose clamps down.



Reattach and tighten the AC line bolt onto the new location on the intake piping with a 10mm socket.



The filter is now ready to be installed. You may have to move the piping a bit to get some clearance and install the filter. This is where not tightening the hose clamps and intake bracket comes in handy. Once you’ve determined everything is in place tighten all the hose clamps and bolts.



After tightening all the hose clamps and bolts install the throttle body back on and you are finished.



Here’s the finished product all installed. I’ve added a little touch to the intake piping.



After taking it out on the freeway and city streets, the response when I step on the gas is a bit more responsive and power gains are not a huge noticeable difference. However, I can notice some or maybe it’s just a “placebo effect.” When I’m on the gas hard the engine screams or it could be the AEM intake screaming. Not so much of an annoying scream but more like “I can breath and I have more power,” type of scream. Without any dyno test of my own, I won’t be able to really tell how much of a gain or loss I incurred throughout the RPM band. Maybe I should add my name to Herbicidal’s list for the dyno run. I can do a stock modified(big gaping hole on the side) intake run and the AEM Brute Force run. We’ll see what happens.

Again, thanks Lon for the kit!