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Old 11-11-2006, 05:45 PM
Wellcraft19 Wellcraft19 is offline
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Default Re: Starter / Replacement Contacts (LC100)

I'm done with my work and LC started on first attempt. Running as it always have...

A few observations/comments after having done this job over the past week (no, I was not in a rush, worked when I felt like it).

Thanks to the wisdom here and on other lists, this was a fairly simple job, even though the left starter bolt was a bit hard to get to.

Only tools needed:
Ratchet handles: 1/4", 3/8"
Sockets: 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm
Short and long extension 3/8"
Fixed wrenches: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm
A long flexible (snakelike) rod with a strong magnet at the end
A few screw drivers, pliers, etc

There are four hoses that connect to the airbox, not three as some has mentioned (at least for the LC100).

I stuffed a pillow into the airfilter box and it made for a fairly comfortable "seat" while in the engine bay.

Instead of removing the fuel line from the fuel rail (22 mm wrench), I disconnected at the fuel filter and easily snaked the line out (note to those who do disconnect the fuel line from the rail; NEVER re-use the copper washers, buy new ones).

Once intake manifold was on workbench, I did take it apart to clean it out. turns out there was a fair amount of engine oil "pooled" up in enclosed chambers. Also cleaned the intake runners to get all and any crud out of there.
Did buy a new gasket ($16) for between the two halves of the intake manifold (likely not needed, but did no want to open it up w/o one).

The pooling of oil is likely due to overfill during oil change (all too common dealers and other put in too much oil, just to be "safe").

Did reuse the gaskets between head and intake manifold. Clean these out and make sure there is no dirt hidden between the metal sheet and the plastic "filler". These gaskets can be put back the wrong way, but when you see the "angle of attack" of the holes, it is very evident how they go back on.

Did take a few pictures from behind flywheel to get a better feel for how it will look when you start feeeling around with hands. It helped a lot, since the left starter bolt is PITA to get to - but not impossible with the correct combo of tools (3/8 ratchet, 14 mm socket, short extension)

Careful when removing the starter so you do not damage the "snorkels". I did break (at least I think I did...) the plastic mount for one, with the result of it fitting way too loosely back on. Sealed up with silicone gasket sealer and it seem to hold up well. Luckily (?) it was the rearmost snorkel and that one can be inspected from above and actually be reached from behind with intake manifold and everything on, should it fall off and a new one be needed.

Putting the entire intake manifold back on is a bit tricky. At first, it seem not to be enough room between it and the vertical coolant pipe coming up from the left cylinder bank. It is tight, but eventually just slips in.
Make sure you have removed ALL electrical connectors (injectors and sensors) before you, or you might risk crushing/damaging them in the process.

Next time this job is to be done, it'll take shorter time but car will also see a new starter since the contacts on the "plunger" will burn out before the newly installed "exterior" ones.

A few new photos (added 12/01/06)
Attached Thumbnails
Starter / Replacement Contacts-20061108_2631.jpg   Starter / Replacement Contacts-20061109_2640.jpg   Starter / Replacement Contacts-20061109_2641.jpg   Starter / Replacement Contacts-20061109_2644.jpg   Starter / Replacement Contacts-20061109_2645.jpg   Starter / Replacement Contacts-20061109_2646.jpg  

Starter / Replacement Contacts-20061109_2655.jpg  
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