Very Important, please read before purchasing the GBS.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparks Toyota-TRD
Ok, here goes. Now this is from Toyota, keep in mind now every question has been asked by me, (I think ) so, this was the answer they gave for all the questions. I.E. tape recorder type deal.
read----->
Alarm/GBS/Security System: The Latest Story!!
If you have a V-8 Tundra with Keyless Entry AND Engine Immobilizer then the following pertains to you.
You Have part of a Security System on your vehicle and you will need to add the Glass break Sensor (GBS) and then have your Toyota Dealer activate the alarm system with the Tech -Stream tool. When That's complete, you will have a Security System consisting of and Alarm and Glass Break Sensor. The system cannot be activated at home.
NOTE: iF YOU DO NOT HAVE THE 3 THINGS LISTED ABOVE, THEN YOU DO NOT HAVE A SECURITY SYSTEM AND THE ACTIVATION PROCEDURES ABOVE DO NO PERTAIN TO YOU.
IF YOU ALREADY HAVE AND HAVE ACTIVATED YOUR SECURITY SYSTEM THEN THESE PROCEDURES DO NOT PERTAIN TO YOU(MOST LIKELY THE LIMITED TRUCK OWNERS).
Mark.............
Now we are just the messengers with this. Please don't shoot me, I have doughnuts to eat in a minute.
PLEASE READ IT TWICE.
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Alright guys, I installed it tonight so here goes:
First-off, the instructions from Sparks is very good and only skipped some parts. I'll try to fill in what they didn't.
-Remove negative battery cable with 15mm socket.
Kick Panel
-This ones a little blurry but it shows the wiring behind the drivers side kick panel. You have to remove the sill panel to remove the kick panel. The sill panel comes off from 8 clips and should be removed from back to front (
NEVER USE A METAL TOOL TO REMOVE PLASTIC PARTS). There's a platic nut in the firewall holding down the kick panel. Once you remove that there are only two clips holding the kick panel. They are located near the door. Gently remove them with the a plastic or nylon wedge.
Lower Dash Panel
-The lower dash panel itself is held down with 4 clips (2 on either side of the steering column) and 2 10mm bolts on the edges of the lower panel. Remove the bolts first then use the nylon tool to pop out the 4 clips along the top of the panel.
Harnesses attached to Lower Dash Panel
-There are 7 wire harnesses attached to the lower panel. 3 on the upper left side, 2 on the upper right side and 2 on the lower right side. Most have push in clips or flaps with the light on the right bottom being a twist out.
Cross Member Removed
The cross member is attached with 4 10 mm bolts. Once you remove all 4 you will see that the upper 2 had hook tabs backing them up so you will need to gently push up to remove the member. The 2 lower wire harnesses you removed from the lower dash panel are attached to the cross member so just swing it out toward the accelerator. The factory instructions recommend removing the hood latch from the lower dash panel, but if you wrap it in a cloth it will slide down under the door (
DON'T CLOSE THE DOOR ON IT).
Pocket Panel Removal
THIS PART IS FOR FLOOR MOUNTED SHIFTERS ONLY. (The factory instructions were very good, so those with column shifters should follow the instructions with confidence.)
-Now move to the passenger seat and use the nylon wedge to remove the pocket panel under the knock-outs under the climate control knobs. This was the hardest part because the fit here is tight, but I found that getting the tool into the top and popping those 2 clips first worked well. There are 2 wire connections that you will remove.
End of floor shifter only part.
Knock-Out Push Out
-Reaching under the 2nd knock-out to the right you will feel a push tab that you have to hold in while you push the knock-out outward from behind.
GBS Harness
-The wire harnesses is attached to the knock-out with a push flap.
GBS Installation
-Remove it and install the GBS to it. Push the GBS in the hole and the Glass Break Sensor is good to go. You can put the pocket panel back in starting with the bottom clips and moving to the top.
Wire Harness Bracket
-Back to the drivers side. Here's where the factory install drawings become a bit useless. This is the bracket you have to loosen to install the ECU. Its held in place with 2 10 mm nuts and you don't need to take the nuts all the way off.
Attaching the ECU Bracket
-On the right in the above picture you can see the ECU bracket attached to the loosened wire harness bracket. The ECU bracket has a stud in the seat side hole of the wire harness bracket with a tab in the engine side hole. The included 10 mm nut hold the 2 brackets together and then you can retighten the wire harness bracket bolts.
General ECU Location
-This picture gives you a general idea of where the ECU goes. The wire harnesses in the middle of the picture are attached to the wire harness bracket above them. The silver piece behind them is the ECU bracket with the ECU itself hidden by the wires.
ECU and Its Wire Harness
-This is a closer look of the same area as the picture above this one. You can clearly see the ECU, its bracket and the wire harness bracket above it. The white harness in the lower right corner is what gets plugged into the ECU.
-That's the install, now just reattach the cross member remembering to hang the member by its flap hooks before tightening the 4 bolts.
-Then reattach all 7 wire harnesses to the lower dash panel, then reattach its 4 clips then tighten down its 2 lower bolts.
Reinstalling the Kick Panel
-This is the kick panel being reinstalled. The picture shows the upper clip lock and its important to note that it goes behind the wires shown before you push it toward the engine. Then reattach the plastic nut to the firewall.
-Finally, push the sill panel clips back into place working from front to back.
Fuse Box
-This is the location in the engine bay were the short pin should be located and mine was already installed so no need to remove it. You can now reattach the negative battery terminal and reset your clock and radio stations.
I will have to take it to a dealer to get it calibrated and I will post the results as soon as I do. Sorry for the blurry pictures!