Had a Revtek, which advertised 2.5 but was closer to 1.5 inch lift. Planned a 6-inch but couldn't find a way to do it without wheels that pushed the tires out beyond the fenders.
Kept the differential and driveshaft drops but scrapped the rest of the Revtek.
RIM1 Custom Wheels best source for FOOSE,DUB,TIS.... made a 4-inch lift by adding a custom-milled portion from a Trailmaster kit to a full Daystar kit, as shown in the photos in my gallery. On the back we made 2.25-inch blocks with extenders for the brake line brackets to keep the lines off the leafs. Stock wheels, coil overs, and shocks all around.
Ride is better without the Revtek spring pre-load, yet no more than stock lean around high-speed corners. Southern California bed-bounce is significantly reduced, probably from the combination of less spring pre-load up front and less rake than stock. Plenty of room left in the headlight adjusters.
Our goal was the most lift possible while keeping the stock suspension. I think we got it about right, as 3 of the 4 adjusters for the front end alignment are now maxed out.
305/65/18 BFG AT's look small now. With 20,000 miles, they have about half their tread left. Once they wear out, I will be going to at least 35 if not 37's.
RIM1 Custom Wheels best source for FOOSE,DUB,TIS.... does lifts and wheels for the local dealers, so I will be returning to them for wheel well mods when it's time for the 37's. I have about 3 inches left to the top of my 7-foot garage, so it should still fit with the bigger tires.
Right now my front wheel well sits 5 inches taller than stock, but still 3 inches shorter than Tundras with a 6-inch lift and 35's. We did a before and after measurement and I gained 2.5 inches in height up front compared to the Revtek kit.
I was getting 14 in town, but that recently jumped to 17 with the battery disconnect reset. I have the towing package and gears, so there is still plenty of power with the oversize tires; I suspect it will still be fine going to 37's.
I know pictures aren't as good as the real thing, but they are in my gallery just the same. Let me know if you have questions.
Update: discovered rear blocks left minimal travel with the stock shocks, so used this as a good excuse to put longer, softer shocks that will hopefully eliminate what's left of the bed bounce. Going to Meguiar's class in March, which will give me a chance to see if the ride is better on I-10.
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07 DC SR5 TRD 4x4 5.7 TRD exhaust, 46K miles,
17 mpg city after battery disconnect reset. Truxedo Lo-Pro with deck rails.
Front Susp: Stock coilovers, 4" lift (
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...6-4-inch-lift/), swapped extra spacers for Bilstein 5100s on lowest setting, wheel well height still 41.5."
Rear Susp: ProComp ES3000 #326510 (2.25" taller than stock), 1.25" blocks plus PRG mini-pack (
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...and-new-truck/) gives 2.25" total lift, parking brake cable bracket spacers, wheel well height 43." Front diff and rear ds drop; trailer hitch electrical harness tucked up above bumper. After 20K miles swapped 305/65/18 BFG AT for
285/75/18 Toyo AT, still on stock 18x8x60 offset TRD wheels, about 1/8" clearance to sway bar. Like the extra height but miss the width. Next time either 305/70/, 295/70, or 35x12.50/18. Added 5th 285/75/18 Toyo AT as spare.
Bed Bounce: Stiffer E-tires are worse than stock P-metric; biggest improvement from PRG mini-pack, slight improvement from shocks. Still a stiff ride but tolerable now.
Best things about this truck: 5.7 and transmission, interior size and comfort, very quiet at high speed.
Worst things about this truck: bed bounce, no VSC in 4wd, mileage sucks above 70.