FYI, here are pics of the polished chrome one I just installed.
My Fuel Door Piccs
Installation Overview:
1. Open stock fuel door and remove 4 black sheet metal screws. These original screws will not be used in the new installation.
2. The fuel door assembly comes completely out. Assembly includes the original fuel door and the black plastic housing and door hinge assembly behind it.
3. Remove the original fuel door and gas cap tether from the black housing.
4. CUT off, flush to flat surface, the 2 rubber bumpers on the right side of the housing with a sharp knife. The original door rested on these when it was closed.
5. Reinstall the housing.
6. Install custom bracket with provided sheet metal screws on right side of housing. This bracket is what required the removal of the rubber bumpers and this bracket provides the machine threaded holes for the final 2 right screws for the billet door assembly.
7. The billet door assembly is attached using 2 countersunk machine screws on the right going into the custom bracket. On the left, 2 longer machine screws fix the billet assembly into the original 2 holes on the left. Now this is the part that is unsatisfactory. The original holes are plastic lugs designed for self-threading sheet metal screws. So the machine screws fit snugly in there, but actually cannot be tightened. In effect they are just sitting there. The two machine screws on the right are the ones that are really holding the billet door assembly securely to the truck. I may, when I get time, see if I can get washers and nuts on the back of those if I can get access by removing the black wheel well housing nearby.
In the final result, of the 6 screws on the circular frame of the billet door assembly, the 2 right-most ones are very secure. The left 2 are just snug press-fit into original plastic female lugs. The top and bottom ones are dummy screws for cosmetic purposes.
All in all, it functions as a lockable door, apparently the only one worthwhile on the market for Tundras currently, and looks good.