How to increase HP and gas mileage in Tundra

[jim65wagon]

Originally Posted by Cyberbilly

Here's another idea: Drive in the nude. The weight savings of not wearing clothes is good for about 1 mpg. Every little bit helps.

With that in mind I'm suddenly considering NOT attending the VA meet!

[Cyberbilly]

Originally Posted by jim65wagon

With that in mind I'm suddenly considering NOT attending the VA meet!

I never said I practiced what I preached.

[Cyberbilly]

OK. Here's another idea.

Fill the cab with helium balloons. If you have a camper shell on the back, so much the better. Fill the back with helium balloons too.

The Helium will help lift the truck off the highway a little, resulting in less rolling resistance in the tires, which translates to better milage.

[Cyberbilly]

OK.

I was bored this morning at work, so I decided to do a little bit of ebay surfing using the key words “Toyota Tundra.” I discovered that for less than $500, I can significantly increase my Tundra’s horsepower and gas mileage using readily available and inexpensive ebay merchandise.

The seven most interesting things I found are listed below.

Starting with baseline numbers of 245 HP for a stock Toyota Tundra with the 4.7L V8, and guesstimating 19mpg Highway (YMMV) I came up with the following. Please understand that I am assuming Best Case Scenarios, and your results may differ slightly.

First, by installing a magnet that connects around your fuel line (no clamps necessary) that promises 10% more Horsepower and 15% mileage, you can bring your Tundra up to 269.6 HP and increase your mileage up to 21.85 mpg. All for only $10.95.

Now, if you add something called “Chip Module Mod” that is good for 35% more Horsepower, and combine it with the fuel line magnet listed above, you can increase your HP to 363.8. This little device will set you back $15.98.

Next, add a “Vortex Generator” that installs in your intake. This, along with a “Gas Line Ionizer” (they come together in a kit), will give you an extra 35 horsepower and increase your mileage up to 46%. A bargain at $25.95. Now your stock Tundra, is up to 398.9 horses at 32 mpg! Can you believe it? We’re in Yaris territory now!

Then there is the mysterious “Intake Mod ECU”. The description is a little short on details, but hey, it means an additional 25 ponies for only $5.99. You can’t beat that with a stick! Now our measly 4.7 litres are puttin’ out horsepower of about 423 and change.

But let’s not forget the all-time favorite Throttle Body Helix spacer. A little pricey at $81.15, but still cheaper than a Supercharger. It will add another 22Horsepower, and a 4 mpg mileage increase. But we’ll take what we can get: So we are at 446HP and 36mpg.

Don’t forget the “Ground Wire Voltage Stabilizer” $26.99 + $20 shipping buys you another 8 mules. Running Tally: 454 Cowboy Crotch Rockets under that nondescript hood.

And the Piece de Resistance, the venerable K&N Intake good for another 26 HP. A steal at $242.95 or $9.34 a horse.

So, for a mere $429.96 you can have your off-the-shelf Tundra cranking out 480 Clydesdales while getting the mileage of a Prius!! Who needs a Hybrid Tundra when you can have one of these?

[Nzo]

Acetone mixed with gas was busted by Mythbusters. It actually gave them poorer miles to the gallon. Tornado type filtration add ons and magnetizing or ionizing gadgets also didn't do anything. So there you go. Keep it stock and don't worry about it, or don't drive it. If you bought a V8 you should have known what you were getting into. Regardless of how good the Tundra MPG seems in comparison to other V8 trucks, it sure aint no civic or prius.

[Justang]

Driving with the tailgate down makes your mileage worse. Keep it up, or get a tonneau cover, or camper shell. This was also a show on Mythbusters.

[gbbuilders]

I've gotta say I was pretty disappointed to read these response. I was looking for some people that know what they are talking about. After all, you bought a Toyota, there's gotta be something up there. To increase power and mileage you just have to go back to the basics. Make the engine work less. The Tundra's fan is belt driven which creates alot of resistance on the engine. Perma-Cool makes a great electric twin fan assemble that fits right in the Tundra. It averages about 5 mpg better. Depending on how much you drive, this system should pay for itself in less that a years time despite its $530.00 price tag. K&N claims 2-3 mpg for its 77 Series Intake. Now that the engine can breath in better, let it breath out. Headers if available for your model (Not available for my '05) and stainless steel exhaust. Last but not least, aerodynamics. The tailgate on the bed of the truck is a huge air dam. I installed an ARE hard cover tonneau, but even the soft covers are better than an open bed. Or if you prefer a cap. Everything mentioned above will improve mileage and performance on the Tundra or any truck for that matter.

[PointCrossed]

Originally Posted by gbbuilders

I've gotta say I was pretty disappointed to read these response. I was looking for some people that know what they are talking about. After all, you bought a Toyota, there's gotta be something up there. To increase power and mileage you just have to go back to the basics. Make the engine work less. The Tundra's fan is belt driven which creates alot of resistance on the engine. Perma-Cool makes a great electric twin fan assemble that fits right in the Tundra. It averages about 5 mpg better. Depending on how much you drive, this system should pay for itself in less that a years time despite its $530.00 price tag. K&N claims 2-3 mpg for its 77 Series Intake. Now that the engine can breath in better, let it breath out. Headers if available for your model (Not available for my '05) and stainless steel exhaust. Last but not least, aerodynamics. The tailgate on the bed of the truck is a huge air dam. I installed an ARE hard cover tonneau, but even the soft covers are better than an open bed. Or if you prefer a cap. Everything mentioned above will improve mileage and performance on the Tundra or any truck for that matter.

Thank you, this thread was hijacked fom the start. May I add there is a oil fuel additive that alot of cars in Japan use, called microlon. It is some very sood stuff. I ordered the kit thats for a 5.9L and lower engine its expensive $103, but it really works, at increasing gas milage and power.

[trailryder]

It seems to me that any time you improve air flow thru the engine, with whatever mod, for the computer to keep the air/fuel ratio as programmed, it will increase fuel flow to compensate for the increased air the engine is getting. That makes for worse gas mileage.

[IStan]

Originally Posted by Cyberbilly

So, for a mere $429.96 you can have your off-the-shelf Tundra cranking out 480 Clydesdales while getting the mileage of a Prius!! Who needs a Hybrid Tundra when you can have one of these?

Links!? Don't Hold out on Us

[Cyberbilly]

Originally Posted by IStan

Links!? Don't Hold out on Us

Sorry. TS policies won't let me link to ebay, so you'll have to do your own research.

[Cyberbilly]

Originally Posted by gbbuilders

The Tundra's fan is belt driven which creates alot of resistance on the engine. Perma-Cool makes a great electric twin fan assemble that fits right in the Tundra.

I have to wonder about that and if it really makes any difference. You are correct about mileage being increased by making the engine work less harder. But the thing is, a load on the engine is a load on the engine; it does not matter if the load is mechanical or electrical. It is still a load. Just because you cannot see electricity doesn't mean it is not there.

I used to race MGs in SCCA many years ago. My mechanic buddy could not for the life of him understand why his engine idle speed slowed down when he turned on the headlights on his street MG. I tried to explain that the current drawn by the headlights made the alternator work harder which in turn made the engine work harder. He still didn't get it.

Putting in an electrical fan may buy you a little savings because of less friction, but a mechanical fan or an electrical fan with the same cooling power will require the same amout of energy to operate.

[Steelshot]

Originally Posted by Cyberbilly

Putting in an electrical fan may buy you a little savings because of less friction, but a mechanical fan or an electrical fan with the same cooling power will require the same amout of energy to operate.

But, Cyberbilly, isn't the point that a mechanical fan is operating and creating a load even at speed when it isn't needed? An electric fan turns off when the forward motion of the vehicle is pushing air past the radiator, thus no fan load and better MPG.

[mustang67408]

A mechanical load is alot more of a load than an electrical load. When it relates to the fans in question. It takes alot more work force to make something mechanical work, than it does something electrical.

If you ever owned a 3.0L Toyota and replaced the mechanical fan with an electric one. You'd of thought you added 2 more cylinders.

When the Mechanical fan in my 1996 E350 Motorhome kicked in, it sounded like you were going to takeoff and then you might as well forget climbing that hill. You could feel it slown down no matter how far down you pushed the go fast pedal.
I agree with STEELSHOT too

isn't the point that a mechanical fan is operating and creating a load even at speed when it isn't needed? An electric fan turns off when the forward motion of the vehicle is pushing air past the radiator, thus no fan load and better MPG

[Cyberbilly]

Originally Posted by Steelshot

But, Cyberbilly, isn't the point that a mechanical fan is operating and creating a load even at speed when it isn't needed? An electric fan turns off when the forward motion of the vehicle is pushing air past the radiator, thus no fan load and better MPG.

Which is the same net result as a clutch for the mechanical fan.