Well, OK. I'm not going to belabor the point. JMHO.
I agree with CYBERBILLY too.
__________________ 2002 TUNDRA AC 2WD = NOT STOCK
MODS: TRD LSD w/4.88's| TRD Headers | Flowmaster 50 Series SUV | TRD Supercharger | Hellwig Rear Sway Bar (custom end links) | TOYOTA Power Antenna | Rear "AIR RIDE" w/ on board compressor | De-badged | Raybrig Headlights & Nokya yellow Foglights | Keyless Upgrade to Full Alarm | Toyota Air Filter | Horn Mod | Map Light Mod | Back Seat Mod | STUBBS Sliders | AXIS Wheels w/315/75-16 Yokohama Geolander MT + | Home Link | SUPERLIFT Tru-speed-speedo Recalibrator | McKesh Mirrors l 3" Body Lift w/Poly Body Mounts l Gap Gaurds l Stainless Brake Lines l Poly Sway Bar Bushings l Poly Rear Leaf Spring Bushings l Clear/Red/Clear Tailights l Black Corners & Headlight Assy's l Diff breather Mod l Nu-Image Blue Flame Gauges l Eclipse AVN5435 w/ Rev Cam & 8 disk changer l Custom rear roll pan w/lights l RCD 6" lift w/ 3" blocks and AAL l Camburg UCA's l High Lift Jack l Daystar Front & Rear Bumpers l 4 Hella Black Magic Lights l Budbuilt Trac Bar l ICOM 706 MKIIG l Doran tire pressure sensors
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Keep it under 2200 cruising also...equates to about 60mph. Higher than 60/2200, mileage goes in the dumper. What would be nice is a dash-adjustable timing knob like dad's old 51 ford flathead. If the computer could be programmed to keep the timing just under detonation all the time, that would be ideal. Maybe it doesn't due to some other consideration, like exhaust temp/emmisions.
a governor would be a handy tool for keeping gas mileage down. i dont know how easily sumthin like that could be installed or if its even realistic, but maybe give it an on/off switch just to keep you from "accidentally" going 80+ on the highway. if that doesnt work you can always just bust out all the windows... better air circulation, no down force. i got some advice from my NASCAR buddies and saw that they change their tires every 40 miles or so and that keeps their speed and mpg at peak performance. sounds kinda pricey but might be worth the trouble... now where to hire a pit crew
a governor would be a handy tool for keeping gas mileage down. i dont know how easily sumthin like that could be installed or if its even realistic, but maybe give it an on/off switch just to keep you from "accidentally" going 80+ on the highway.
You already have that. It is called a "Cruise Control."
Get a ScanGaugeII or comparable device and actually pay attention to it, and the sound of your engine, well not so much you go off the road.
I can get 22 mpg on a crappy road with 2500 elevation change, loaded down, shell, and BFG TAKO tires (high rolling resistance). 2003 V8 Tundra 4x2 (sticker was 14-18). Before the scangauge I used to get 11-14 on that run. The most important part is slowing down, then you have to figure out what the engine is doing. Many throttle positions will keep you at the same speed, only 1 of them will be "just" enough to overcome drag. Other thing is maxing out the engine on the hills without downshifting or loosing TC lock.
I think I even whined on this board much earlier about the crummy mileage of the truck. Not anymore.
BTW. A shell does NOT improve mileage. It weighs WAY to much, and only adds surface area (even though tangential) for the winds to contact. (Have one). It makes your city mileage go really crummy.
No affiliation with scangauge, just a damn happy customer (thinkgeek.com)
Throw away the intake, injectors, headers, exaust, electronic spark and wires and buy all new Edelbrock componets. I remember adding all the HP they claim on my 86 corvette and I would have had about 450HP out of my little mouse. I think their dyno gauge was stuck..
I just got my ScanGuage II and I have to second what Trellend says. The device is amazing, easy to install and provides the info you need to improve your fuel mileage by altering your driving habits. The mileage is updated every 2 seconds (overall trip fuel mileage is also provided), so you can see exactly what effect each type of driving has on mileage. Stop and go driving (in town) is the worst, but if you plan ahead to avoid complete stops, even that can improve. I have a couple of places I go where I can take the short route thru town or take a slightly longer bypass that avoids most stops, and it is worth it. Also, passing can be worthwhile if it gets you around a vehicle that causes you to drop out of OD for extended periods.
I usually get around 18mpg going to my current job (34 miles on 50mph secondary road through rolling hills and mountains that I drive at about 55-60 with a small town at each end). I tried to stay right at 55 using the Scanguage (57.5 by my speedo and I got 20.6 this morning and was at 21.5 until I passed through a small town with 3 stop lights and a long uphill pull to my job. This was using the hyperactive cruise control for about half the trip, which punches down a couple of gears on the hills. I'll try it without cruise control later this week.
My speedo reads 2-3 mph high, but the Scanguage was right on the money according to the roadside radar signs.
I ordered online and received the Scanguage 4 days later. I've been wanting to get a code scanner anyway, so this was a real bonus.
Quote:
Originally Posted by trellend
Get a ScanGaugeII or comparable device and actually pay attention to it, and the sound of your engine, well not so much you go off the road.
I can get 22 mpg on a crappy road with 2500 elevation change, loaded down, shell, and BFG TAKO tires (high rolling resistance). 2003 V8 Tundra 4x2 (sticker was 14-18). Before the scangauge I used to get 11-14 on that run. The most important part is slowing down, then you have to figure out what the engine is doing. Many throttle positions will keep you at the same speed, only 1 of them will be "just" enough to overcome drag. Other thing is maxing out the engine on the hills without downshifting or loosing TC lock.
I think I even whined on this board much earlier about the crummy mileage of the truck. Not anymore.
BTW. A shell does NOT improve mileage. It weighs WAY to much, and only adds surface area (even though tangential) for the winds to contact. (Have one). It makes your city mileage go really crummy.
No affiliation with scangauge, just a damn happy customer (thinkgeek.com)
Cruisng 25mph in overdrive...........
__________________
2003 Tundra Access Cab SR5 V8 4X4
RAPS, C.R. Lawrence Slider Rear Window from Yipes!, Hellwig Rear Anti-sway Bar, ASA TRS alloys, 265/70-16 Firestone Destination AT tires, debadged doors, ARE MX series cap, WeatherTech front floor mats, Scanguage II gauge & code scanner
I made the drive to work today without using cruise control, just watching the Scanguage and got 21.6, an improvement of one mpg. The ride home yesterday with cruise control on for about half of it was 20.5, the same as it was in the morning, which impressed me because the AC was on.
By not using cruise control, I prevented the two gear downshift on uphills, but lost some speed on the uphills. It appears that cruise control only improves mileage on flat terrain and worsens it on hilly terrain.
For those who have installed "Cold Air Intakes", the Scanguage can display the intake air temp. With stock intake that runs about 3 degrees above the ambient temp. I expect the true CAI systems like Volant and Trueflow would be the same and the FIPK would read much warmer.
__________________
2003 Tundra Access Cab SR5 V8 4X4
RAPS, C.R. Lawrence Slider Rear Window from Yipes!, Hellwig Rear Anti-sway Bar, ASA TRS alloys, 265/70-16 Firestone Destination AT tires, debadged doors, ARE MX series cap, WeatherTech front floor mats, Scanguage II gauge & code scanner
For those who have installed "Cold Air Intakes", the Scanguage can display the intake air temp. With stock intake that runs about 3 degrees above the ambient temp. I expect the true CAI systems like Volant and Trueflow would be the same and the FIPK would read much warmer.
Closed-box systems such as Volant and Trueflow draw air from the fender well or not directly from the engine compartment I believe, while open systems, such as K&N FIPK draws air from inside the engine compartment which is much warmer.
IMHO though, I'm stayin' with the stock intake due to the trials and tribulations of the many knowledgeable peeps here at TS and the recommendation from a good friend at Toyota.
__________________ 2004 Black Tundra ACI 4WD I TRD I LSD I 4.88s I Camburg UCAs I RCD 6" I 3" Body Lift I Gap Guards I 35"x14.50 Nitto Mud Grapplers I 16x10 Black Streetlocks I Flowmaster 50 Dumped I Debadged I Snuglid SL I Tint I RS3200plus upgrade I Differential Breather Ext I Back Seat Mod I TC Steering Rack Bushings I Aux Fan III
1985 Toyota 4runner I 22re I 33" BFG Mud Terrains II
1987 Toyota Pickup I XtraCab I 4WD I 22r I MSD Helicoil I 32/36 Weber I Hooker Header I Straight Pipe to Flowmaster 50 series I 33" BFG Mud Terrains I Centerlines I Smittybuilt Sides and Rear II - SALE PENDING
It's just a SWAG, but it makes sense that air drawn from under the hood is going to be hotter than air drawn from the outside. My point is that the Scanguage provides the data to prove it one way or another.
__________________
2003 Tundra Access Cab SR5 V8 4X4
RAPS, C.R. Lawrence Slider Rear Window from Yipes!, Hellwig Rear Anti-sway Bar, ASA TRS alloys, 265/70-16 Firestone Destination AT tires, debadged doors, ARE MX series cap, WeatherTech front floor mats, Scanguage II gauge & code scanner
OMG-- I forgot I started this post 3 years ago-=-been away from the forum since then--and just recently back on when I just got my TRD 4 x 4 DC. How funny! Well you can tell times have changed--I am not into performance as much as I am into pushing the envelope on saving gas $$$.
I'll also chime in about the Scangauge II. It has really helped me to be smooth with the go pedal. I've seen a 30% increase in mileage in my 1 Ton GMC Savanna 5.7.And I also am learning where the sweet spots are in my Tundra. It gets 19.5 at 60mph with the a/c on. I can't wait til I get my Bedlocker tonneau on to see what difference it makes.
Question; has anyone dyno tested the Borla dual exhaust. Just curious if there is a hp bump.
__________________ http://public.fotki.com/PJ3P/ [pictures]
2006 Tundra DC, white, XSP [leather,woodgrain,chrome nerfs & 20's w/ 295-45VR Conti UHP's],
JBL w/ 6 disc changer, sunroof, Borla dual exhaust, LSD, fog lamps, privacy glass
Mods completed; Scan Gauge II, front window tint, Line-X, Prestige Alarm w/ remote start,
Pace Edwards Bedlocker operated by Homelink and remote, Weathertech floor liners front and back,
AVS Chrome bugshield, Roadmaster backup camera
Re: How to increase HP and gas mileage in Tundra
Re: How to increase HP and gas mileage in Tundra
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