Wet or Dry? (blower question)

[GaryFisher]

I want to get a Nitrous system but I ultimately want to purchase a supercharger. My question is that I have heard a wet is not good for NA engines but a dry is, and vice versa with a blower? Can I get a dry now and will it work just fine with the blower?

[v8Toilet]

The wet is nice because it adds additional fuel with the nitrous so you are less likely to problems like one cylinder going lean. At least that is how I always interpreted it but I'm by no means a nitrous expert. You’ll want to be careful with that clutch. It slips easily if your motor makes enough torque and with nitrous is will have tons of low-end torque.

[Eddie]

Do V6's have the funky fuel pressure regulator like the V8s? Where the vacuum reference hose (small one on top) is connected to the airbox rather than the intake manifold? If you do,stay with a wet system. I'd usually recommend dry over single-fogger wet,but I don't know if the stock regulator will increase fuel pressure enough due to the way it references vacuum.

[tremo]

Originally Posted by GaryFisher

I want to get a Nitrous system but I ultimately want to purchase a supercharger. My question is that I have heard a wet is not good for NA engines but a dry is, and vice versa with a blower? Can I get a dry now and will it work just fine with the blower?

From what I've read on this site, you wanna go wet for both NA from SC. Check out this thread: nitrous oxide tundra

User "swag" has a SC and installed a Zex Wet system part # 82021. Read the thread for more details. Search on "nitrous" for more threads.

From the Zex site:

Wet nitrous systems provide fuel enrichment by teeing off the engine fuel rail and feeding it to the injection nozzel.

Dry nitrous systems provide fuel enrichment by increasing the fuel pressure to the fuel injectors, as soon as the nitrous system activates.

Check out these pages at Zex:

http://www.zex.com/Information/Catalog/

You can see how the wet system works by looking at how the nitrous line and fuel line "Y" together. Then you drill a hole in your intake tube (after the MAF sensor) and place the line there, like this:

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/photo...cat/500/page/1

The nice thing about the Zex system is once it's armed, nitrous will only kick in at WOT (Wide Open Throttle). As soon as you let off, it turns off. The next problem becomes where to mount the bottle...

I pieced all this together last night, so you're benefitting from what I just learned!

Seee-ya,

Jim.

P.S. You may want to change the title of the thread to "Wet or Dry Nitrous" so folks know what you're referring to.

[Bbbutch]

I also am no nitrous expert but I do have that system on my truck. It is a single fogger wet system (Zex 82021) and produces a ton of power with my NA motor.
I don't know if it's right but I pulled fuel from the line before the pressure regulator and I am very pleased with the results.

I see Tremo just posted and answered the rest of your questions.

All I can add is that you can mount your bottle in the bed or with a lot of work under the rear quarter panel like I did. If you can find a better spot please tell us about it.
The wet nitrous system will work well with a SC but you'll have to run a 55 shot with it. Some members run a larger shot with SC but it's not recommended.

You'll want to get the bottle warmer and the remote bottle opener is very convenient too. However I chose to go with a high-pressure solenoid valve so that everything works off one switch. You can order those from GC Valves.
http://gcvalves.com

[tremo]

Originally Posted by Bbbutch

I don't know if it's right but I pulled fuel from the line before the pressure regulator and I am very pleased with the results.

All I can add is that you can mount your bottle in the bed or with a lot of work under the rear quarter panel like I did. If you can find a better spot please tell us about it.

You'll want to get the bottle warmer and the remote bottle opener is very convenient too. However I chose to go with a high-pressure solenoid valve so that everything works off one switch. You can order those from GC Valves.
http://gcvalves.com

Excellent, thanks man! A few questions:

1) Where is the pressure regulator located and how did you tee off the fuel line? Does the kit include a tee for this???

2) Can you take a few pics of how you mounted the bottle? Sounds like a good place as I'd rather not have it in the bed.

3) So if I understand this correctly, the remote bottle opener would be a separate switch from the arming switch, correct? So by using a high-pressure soleniod on the bottle (?) and running the wires to the existing arming switch, the entire set-up is "opened and armed" in one swell foop?! Cool! (Got a part number for that soleniod?!)

Thanks!

Jim.

P.S. Is the wife still in the dark? (I read your other posts... )

[Bbbutch]

Originally Posted by tremo

Excellent, thanks man! A few questions:

1) Where is the pressure regulator located and how did you tee off the fuel line? Does the kit include a tee for this???

2) Can you take a few pics of how you mounted the bottle? Sounds like a good place as I'd rather not have it in the bed.

3) So if I understand this correctly, the remote bottle opener would be a separate switch from the arming switch, correct? So by using a high-pressure soleniod on the bottle (?) and running the wires to the existing arming switch, the entire set-up is "opened and armed" in one swell foop?! Cool! (Got a part number for that soleniod?!)

Thanks!

Jim.

P.S. Is the wife still in the dark? (I read your other posts... )

1) The pressure regulator is located on the left side of the motor on the fuel rail.
The Zex 82021 kit does include at tee to tap into this fuel line however the fuel line is plastic (covered with rubber) and will have to be replaced with a rubber fuel hose to allow the tee to be installed.

2) I'll post some pics. The old ones might have gotten deleted with the forum clean up.
I don't know if you can see it but I had to mount an aluminum plate to the ribs of the under side of the bed to give me a surface to mount the bottle too.

3) Correct. The way I have it set up it all runs off of one switch. The Zex bottle opener requires an additional switch.
GC valve # H401GF15T9BFS $188.86 with shipping and tax.
Normally closed, 12VDC, continuous duty, 1/4 NPT ports, Teflon seat.
I got mine from
Measurement Variables INC
Santa Ana, CA.
1-800-654-9160
www.4mvi.com

They are the closest GC valve distributor to my area.

Also, My solenoid is located by the nitrous management unit. I would like to relocate it off of the bottle but I haven't been able to find the right fittings. If anybody knows part numbers and where to get nitrous bottle fittings to NPT threads please let me know.

The Wife
Well, I "think" she is still in the dark (maybe she prefers to be). I took a great deal of time to install this system a little bit at a time and since I'm a little particular about my truck it took even longer. About 4 weeks worth. But it was worth not having to hear her say "WHY DO YOU NEED THAT?" and then the resulting blow out.
And for those of you who also wonder why I need that. I don't! It simply puts a smile on my face and I do need that.

[tremo]

One word: NICE! Man, you did an awesome job!!

Thanks for the excellent tips and the pic's. I've been thinkin' about my next mod after the Unichip and just started researching nitrous last night. Thanks to you, I have most of the info. I need.

Thanks again!

Jim.

P.S. I saved all the pics in case they clean up things up in the future...