Worklog - Road RagE II (2007 Tundra)

[PS-RagE]

Originally Posted by 07tundraman

I recently installed the factory back up camera (w/o monitor) and am trying to hook it up to my DDX812 Kenwood. I cannot get a signal back from the camera. I used a voltage meter to test the connector under the back bumper and I am getting 12v (7v per Rages VM directions) to that plug. Should/Will the 12v tester light up if tested on the C+? Any ideas on why I am not getting a signal back from the camera? All of your information has been tremendously helpful. Thanks for posting your build.

Use that volt meter - not the test light. Check your wiring. Something must be amiss

[CLToy]

I performed the rear camera mod per PS-RagE's specs to the Kenwood DNX8120 and it rocks! Just a quick note to say thanks for the assistance in the past.

[ktaulbee]

Holy shnikes batman. I am an official Rage-a-holic!

[Jumbo Jet]

I just noticed that this thread has over 53,000 views...... that has to be some kinda record. lol

[PS-RagE]

Having repeatedly killed the factory battery during the installation, it would not hold a good charge. So, after having to boost it too many times I said "enough of that" and replaced it with an Optima yellowtop.



Even still though, in winter I have problems. Too often I would again find the battery unable to turn over the engine on cold mornings if I didn't plug in or left the truck parked for several days.

The thing is, I only live 9 minutes from work and most days that is as far as I go. So with the heavy current draw of starting the truck, then the steady draw of the stereo playing, the seat warmers, etc, 9 minutes of alternator juice is just not enough to keep a good charge on the battery.

Finally realizing what was happening, I decided to correct this issue. I found a weatherproof maintenance charger, mounted it under the hood, cut off its power cord and spliced it into the cord for the block heater.



So now, on cold nights when I have to plug in, I charge the battery at the same time. As an added bonus, I get a light showing me the connection is good!

[dienilno]

For anyone interested in using the LM317 voltage regulator for the OEM backup, there is a handy LM317 calculator online at LM317 Voltage Calculator.

[PS-RagE]

Well, its been a while and I decided I was due for another project. So, today its time for some emergency lighting.

Many people, myself included, do not want a magnetic beacon or light bar attached to their vehicle. The alternative then is to conceal the lighting. One option is for dash and deck lighting. Another is for grill-mounted lightheads (perhaps a project for another day). But the design I've opted for is corner strobes.

This is Whelen's S450AAAA Hide-A-Way Strobe system. It includes a strobe power supply with four 50W outlets, four amber strobe tubes and four 15' cables with connecters.







The electronics are potted in epoxy so I can install the supply pretty much anywhere:



These amber strobe tubes will be installed in the headlights and tail lamps:



So, I've got my work cut out for me again. Now to find a place to install the power supply and then start fishing cables.

[Jumbo Jet]

Ah, this is great. I was starting to miss your work logs.

[PS-RagE]

So with a long weekend approaching I can take the time to get this project started.

First, I've got to determine where all the cabling has to go so that means finding a place to mount the strobe power supply. I'm really running out of places to install things. Luckily, it is pretty flat so after checking, I decided it will fit under the smaller of the two rear seats:



First then is to get the strobe tubes mounted. The headlamps come off pretty easily by removing three bolts and the plate below them. The connections to the bulbs were a little more challenging - especially the low beam.



So here is the victim:



I have to drill into the reflector to mount the tube. My first thought was to take apart the assembly. It didn't look like it should be difficult - a few screws and these tabs:



But it would appear that once these are put together, they were never intended to be disassembled.

So, plan two then is to break out the dremel and a razor and cut away the underside of the headlamp.



This gave me enough room to fit the holesaw and cut a 1" hole. Once I'd vaccuumed out the shavings the tube is mounted:



Here is what it looks like:



I was concerned about the big hole in the bottom and water getting in so decided to cut a piece of plastic and silicone it over the hole:





Now that I had a plan, the other side went pretty quick:



Tomorrow I'll do the tail lights and, with luck, pull the cabling as well.

.

[PS-RagE]

So, I've got the front of the truck stripped:



Time to do the same to the rear. The tail lights come off far easier than the head lights did - only two bolts and the bulbs are a simple half turn to remove:



Here is the next victim:



Mounting this tube is much easier since the back of the reflector is exposed. Again, a 1" hole is cut:



And the tube is mounted:



The second tube is mounted:



You can kind of see it in there:



Time to start the wiring. An assembled connector:



The cable is encased in loom and tie wrapped in place with the others:



It was at this point I realized I should have purchased the kit with the waterproof connectors:



I want them as water resistant as possible so I first wrapped the connector with rubber tape:



Then covered the rubber with vinyl:



The re-installed headlamp:



And tail lamp:



The individual runs are combined into a single loom and run along the top of the frame towards the location I decided to install the power supply.

I crept under the truck to find an entry point for the cabling and found another rubber plug similar to the one I used for the heavy power wiring:



I used a awl to punch through it and see where it came out:



Couldn't have asked for a better spot:



I cut a hole in the plug, pulled the cables through and sealed the hole:



The cables are cut to length and connectors installed:



I've connected the power to it through a relay. This way I only need to use a light wire to ground the coil and the switch will not require high current contacts.



Haven't decided yet how I am going to turn it on. Originally, I was going to use the four-way flasher switch but think I've changed my mind.

.

[TOYOTABUZZ]

Pics of them flashing!

[PS-RagE]

Today I found myself in a bit of a dilemma. I went down to the Toyota dealer to inquire about getting a switch. I figured perhaps the VSC or Tow/Haul. Turns out all the switches are momentary contact. Plus, they were $95!!

From there, I tried the automotive parts dealers. None of the switches they had would fit the blanks and they were all butt-ugly rockers.

So as I was mulling over my (limited) options, my Senior Technician said: "Why don't you use one of the programmable outputs on the radio?"

Genius!!!!

First then is to connect the relay to the radio's accessory connecter:



It is reconnected to the radio:



Now, into the radio software. Pin 14 is set as an active low output:



It is set to toggle between its states and the states are assigned alias:



Finally, one of the buttons is assigned for auxillary control:





So, test it out and it works as expected - cool!





The seat is put back in. Fits perfectly:



Here we are:



.

[TOYOTABUZZ]

Programmable outputs? Perfect!

[supaminh]

Hi Rage or anyone that can answer the question,

Great informative thread! Btw: I'm asking this same exact question on another forum in Toxarch's thread..

I've spent the entire day reading through your thread and Toxarch's thread about the voltage regulator for connecting the factory backup camera. I just ordered my camera and hooking it up is the easy part.

My question is a two part question. In your Toxarch's thread, he stated the 'reverse signal wire' is the violet wire. But also, earlier in the same thread, he stated that you informed you that it's the green wire. Are both usable for the 'reverse signal wire?'

The second part of my question is soooo lame. I apologize ahead of time. Again, I tried to figure this out on ALL day (reading it over and over on my iPhone while shopping with the prego wifey and even on the lappy when getting home.)

My question is, which side of the voltage regulator goes where? There is one end with two wires and one end with one. The end with one wire connects to the 'white/black' camera wire? And does that mean the end with two wires on the other end connect to the purple wire and the black? If so, does it matter which connects to which. Sorry to sound so confused.

[PS-RagE]

I believe the Reverse Indicator line Tox is using is something he found in the kick panel. I made all my connections to the plug in the roof.

The voltage regulator is rather basic electronics - essentially "in", "out" and "ground". The details of the entire camera installation are here on my webpage: House of RagE - Road RagE II

You can also save yourself some misery and try to locate a 7807 voltage regulator. That will save you having to mess around with resistors