I don't really understand how to splice in the the factory camera wires and make it an rca... i know it was explained but i dont think i know the abbreviations
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2007 Tundra SR5 w/ Nav
Upgrades: 100% Stock
1989 Toyota Pickup 4WD
Upgrades: Dana 44 straight front axle conversion, dana 60 rear, about 9 inch of lift total, 35x13.5 pro comp Xterrain tires on 18in american racing wheels, Ford 5.0 efi under the hood, Kenne Bell 6 pound supercharger, msd ignition, magnaflow dual exhaust, custom cold air intake, dodge nv4500 transmission, dual transfer cases, Pioneer avic-z1 dvd/nav, jl audio zr front and rear components powered by 450/4 amp, jl audio 12 w7 powered by 1000/1 amp.
Impressive work, thanks for all the effort you have put in to the detail of this thread. Quick question, what do you use for your cellular amplifier and it’s components? Since you installed it, I have to imagine you’re impressed with it, have you found any limitations?
I have a corporate Crackberry and the hills and valleys in New England tend to make an extended conversation unpredictable and would probably invest in a similar setup as you’ve shown if the result is worth it.
TIA,
/Jeff
P.S. Much to others chagrin, holes in vehicles is nothing new to me either.
I don't really understand how to splice in the the factory camera wires and make it an rca... i know it was explained but i dont think i know the abbreviations
I'll nip a cable later and photograph how the connections were made.
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Dale McLean
aka PS-RagE House of RagE
Impressive work, thanks for all the effort you have put in to the detail of this thread. Quick question, what do you use for your cellular amplifier and it’s components? Since you installed it, I have to imagine you’re impressed with it, have you found any limitations?
I have a corporate Crackberry and the hills and valleys in New England tend to make an extended conversation unpredictable and would probably invest in a similar setup as you’ve shown if the result is worth it.
TIA,
/Jeff
P.S. Much to others chagrin, holes in vehicles is nothing new to me either.
It is a Wilson 801210. It actually works surprisingly well. Cell coverage in Northern Ontario is poor at best - this thing helps smooth out the fringes between towers. Worst case it will simulate the signal you get if you were to stop the car and get out. When we were camping at Lake Superior area this summer there was only analog available so my smart phone was dead. My wife's little tri-band Nokia was fringing between zero and one bar but when she got to the amp she jumped up to four bars and made her calls. Downside? You have to keep your phone right next to the internal antenna - headset or BlueTooth required.
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Dale McLean
aka PS-RagE House of RagE
So the black wire is the one that is used to power the camera requires the voltage regulator (+7v). However, the green wires triggers the camera (reverse mode) that takes the normal +12v ?
The green wire connects to the headunit - not the camera
As you might have known already..i was trying to follow your mod and add a switch to manually turn on the backup camera for my factory installed backup camera with monitor on the overhead liner. The plugs that goes into the monitor doesn't have the green wire as mentioned. The plug looks totally different also.
Thanks Dale. The connector is indeed on the other end. I hacked into the camera wire itself (easier for me since I can take it down) and the wire is the blue one which connects to the green wire as you mentioned. Works great.
Sorry to clutter your thread more Dale, probably should put this in the other thread about the wiring.
Wouldn't the correct voltage for the camera already be coming from that harness in the overhead console, perhaps on another wire?
If I were to buy the factory backup monitor that mounts in the console the instructions say to simply plug that monitor's cable into the harness. Power for the camera and monitor must be coming from that harness somewhere?
Maybe I'm just confused, or that power only works when in reverse?
The regulated voltage for the camera is supplied by the factory monitor. I'm not using Toyota's monitor so I have to regulate the supply voltage myself
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Dale McLean
aka PS-RagE House of RagE
To be safe, I pulled the tailgate apart and checked for continuity on the wires:
Sure enough, these are the right wires. So I spliced a sheilded cable to the video feed (red V+, grey V-) and a red/black cable for the camera power (black B+, white GND):
Again, these were fished down the A-pillar and over to the center console.
When you terminated these wires, did you convert them to RCA? How does one go about such a task? Do you have pics of the wire ends? Do I simply cut the rca, use the inside line as - and the shield as + and splice the two?
When you terminated these wires, did you convert them to RCA? How does one go about such a task? Do you have pics of the wire ends? Do I simply cut the rca, use the inside line as - and the shield as + and splice the two?
Pretty much. I used a suitably long cheapo RCA cable from my miscellaneous box of stereo parts and nipped off one end. The red wire (V+) goes to the center and the grey wire (V-) to the shield. Solder and heat shrink - tada!
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Dale McLean
aka PS-RagE House of RagE