Just finished doing sound deadener...

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Thread: Just finished doing sound deadener...

  1. #1
    Supporter Agent WD-40's Avatar
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    Smile Just finished doing sound deadener...

    I just got done adding sound deadener to the doors and rear wall of my truck. I had heard that it was good to do this to the doors and what not so I did but I didn't expect any major difference in sound or quiet. I am very surprised at the results. The sound is much better. The bass is much cleaner and seems to hit harder. It is also a lot quieter in the truck. I must say that I like it. The job took a few days but it was worth it.

    I used about 4 sheets Polymeric Mastic item # 9709T19 from www.mcmaster.com. I put it on the rear wall (behind the rear seat) and on the doors (on the cab facing side of both the inner most and outer most layers of metal). I guess the only bad thing is that I can barley hear my TRD exhaust if the music is above a moderate level. It also seemed to make the noise from the engine compartment more noticeable than the exhaust.


    "You play the hand you're dealt. I think the game's worthwhile." -C. S. Lewis

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    Junior Member tundra-gearhead's Avatar
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    Glad to hear your project went smooth and your happy with the results. Takes a day or 2 to adjust to the lack of noise.

    T-G

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    Too funny!

    You insulated your cab and now you complain of lack of noise!

    On an interesting note, the new BMW Z-4 has a 'sub-woofer' from the engine intake under the hood and passes it through the firewall and into the front cab so you can hear the engine better.

    Can you believe that crap?

    Greg

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    Junior Member Toy4ever's Avatar
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    I bought a sheet of that stuff this week from Mcmaster carr as well. I forgot all about those guys. I used to buy parts from them all the time. I am going to use the sheet on the back wall where I am mounting my amps.

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    Supporter JnEsPappa's Avatar
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    I hope we get to see pics soon.

    Did you put it both inside the door and behind the door panel? Does this stuff have any odor, and what was the final cost?

    Great find on a good product at a great price. Good job, Agent.
    - Mark
    Just a hangin' out.

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    Supporter Agent WD-40's Avatar
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    Well, I didn't get to take any pictures of the job but my install looks exactly like this one hyrlik did: pics.

    I did it inside the door and behind the door panel. I replaced that plastic liner with sound deadener. I also did the rear wall behind the back seat. The sticky stuff on this stuff has a bit of an odor, but it isn't bad. The first day it smelled a bit like it and by day 3 the smell was gone. The smell at no point was unbearable though.

    I spent 117 total on 7 sheets of the stuff (90 for the stuff + 7 tax + 20 shipping). I'm guessing it took me 8-10 hours to do. I only used 4 sheets to do the whole job (doors and rear wall). 7 sheets would be enough to do all that I did plus the floor plus maybe 1/2 sheet left over.

    My truck is completely rattle free except for one spot in the front passenger door skin. It rattles only at some low frequencies and it won’t rattle if I apply a bit of pressure below the tweeter. Does anybody have any idea how I could fix this without taking the whole door skin off? I was thinking I would stick something to the side of the dash that would push on it when the door was closed, but that might look kind of ghetto.


    "You play the hand you're dealt. I think the game's worthwhile." -C. S. Lewis

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    Supporter JnEsPappa's Avatar
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    Again, Great Job Agent WD-40.

    Maybe a clear, adhesive backed bumper pad like **THIS ONE** would work. I bet you could find this at Wally World.
    - Mark
    Just a hangin' out.

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    Yeah it smells. Not too bad, we'll see if it tapers off. Smells faintly like rubber cement.

    I've been doing mine one door at a time, and it actually DOES make a BIG difference. Lower frequencies have more 'body', when you listen to drums the sound seems thicker, more intense and more solid. "Tighter" I guess would be the right description. I can say all this because I've only installed one side and I've used the balance control to shift from left to right using many different kinds of music and can really tell the difference.

    I installed this on the passenger side door, piecemeal both againt the inner and outer metal panels (I didn't use one big sheet, but rather several strips of various shapes and sizes). Not sure if that is the best way, but it's easier than trying to custom fit a single sheet.

    One interesting thing about polymeric mastic is that it doesn't stick to itself, its outside (top) texture is a lot like suede, whereas the bottom has the adhesive. So you cannot apply more than one layer. And this stuff is cheap, it's now 14 bucks for each 3 ft by 4 ft sheet.

    Where is everyone installing their component crossovers btw?

    Greg

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    Supporter JnEsPappa's Avatar
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    I wrapped my crossovers in foam and then plastic and let them just sit in the bottom of the door. No rattles.

    I can't remember who, but I know at least one other TSer has done the same thing with good results.
    - Mark
    Just a hangin' out.

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    Supporter Agent WD-40's Avatar
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    jnespappa, thanks for the tip. I will probably use one of those. I did the same thing as you with my xovers. My only problem was the bag got a rip and it filled with water. I dried it out and put it back in the door with a stronger bag and then foam.

    I also used strips to apply the stuff. It made it much easier. I tried to make the strips as big as possibel though. It really does make the bass sound tighter. Well worth it.

    Tundra-gearhead was the one who put me on to this stuff. I just followed his lead.


    "You play the hand you're dealt. I think the game's worthwhile." -C. S. Lewis

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    Junior Member tundra-gearhead's Avatar
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    Default x-over locations

    In my first system, I put the my crossovers in kick panels. I had to fish two sets of wires through the door hinge grommet. Also might be dependent on the size of crossover boxes too.

    My current system, I have the x-overs on the subwoofer box, which also right next to the amp for front channels. Required me to run 2 sets of the wire under the doorsills on each side. But also relocated the tweeters to custom brackets mounted on the dash.

    I'd worried about moisture in the side the door. The other consideration about the location of the x-overs is where or not is have adjustments that can be made to the gain control on the tweeters. My JBL's has set of jumpers in them to doing this. Makes like easier for fiddling with things.


    T-G

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    Junior Member Toy4ever's Avatar
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    Default Sound Deadener?????

    Well after tuning my system and doing the entire back wall and floor on the back with that deadener material from McMaster Carr, the truck still vibrates the back wall. If you close the doors and windows, go outside the truck and look at the back window from the side, you can see the entire wall move about 1/8-1/4 on an inch when the bass hits hard. I am not sure how to stop this. I guess the bass is too much. I could just imagine what would have happened had I put two 15" woofers in this. I almost did. The first company didn't ship so I canceled order, bought from another and received both speakers on the same day, go figure. I almost did it, but said no... I can feel this speaker on low frequencies inside my chest (I love it). I get my preamp friday and I am going to put it right after the factory head unit and see how it is going to play. I will post and update at a later time.

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    Cool

    Several sites on E-bay, look under automotive parts search "DYNAMAX" and you'll get a listing. Much less expensive than McMasters or most Automotive sound shops.

  15. #14
    Junior Member jdc580's Avatar
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    If you guys are looking for good stuff, check out CAE at

    Cascade Audio Engineering

    They have superb products.

    -John

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    Cool

    Correct: Dynamat ... duuuuh, stupid fat fingers strike again

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