Hello everyone this is my first post. I'm trying to upgrade everything on my tundra audiowise. I already got a new HU its the jvc avx800 doubledin touchscreen. Now i need to get my amps subs & new doors speakers Istalled. I got a nice oldschool (small) fosgate 4 channel amp puts out 60 x4 rms fits nice under the seat. haven't installed it yet though. The main question i have is how do wire up some components in my front doors? theres more than one wire and three factory speakers including the tweeter. Should i just run new speaker wire or should i try splicing into the factory wire? Is it tough to run new wire? It originaly had the crappy sounding jbl system. Sombody please help me out i'd appreciate it.
THANKS STYLE67
Running new speaker wire is a snap. You'll run patch cables from the headunit to under the seat (or where ever your amp is), then from out of the amp you'll run your speaker wire to your doors. You can fish the new speaker wire thru the rubber boot in the doors. You'll plug the speaker wire into the crossover of your components, then 2 sets of wires will go out from there. One set to the woofer and the other to your tweeter.
Are you bridging your 4 channel amp to power the sub, or do you have a separate amp for that?
I just finished this on Saturday. I ran new speaker wire as Jumbo jet recommended. It wasn't very hard but it takes time as you have to remove a lot of trim and fish the wires.
I mounted the amp behind the seat in the factory amp location due to the fact that my amp is very large and it wouldn't fit under the seat. So far I have had not heat issues with the amp I'm using there.
I have another amp located under the pass. seat that runs my sub. If your planning on replacing the whole system then begin with the end in mind and make sure everything will fit. There isn't a lot of room to work with in the Tundra if you want to keep everything hidden.
I've heard of other members placing the amp on the back wall where the factory JBL amp is and splicing into the factory wires. In my opinion it would be just as easy to run new wire and you would end up with a system that handles the power better.
__________________ 2004 Limited DC 4x4 Tundra Phantom Grey -
Bilstien 5100 Level, BFG AT-KO 285-75 18's, Alpine deck, CDT speakers, MB Quart 4100 PAB amp with Alpine MRD 605 amp and Kicker L78S Sub in jack compartment
I just finished this on Saturday. I ran new speaker wire as Jumbo jet recommended. It wasn't very hard but it takes time as you have to remove a lot of trim and fish the wires.
I mounted the amp behind the seat in the factory amp location due to the fact that my amp is very large and it wouldn't fit under the seat. So far I have had not heat issues with the amp I'm using there.
I have another amp located under the pass. seat that runs my sub. If your planning on replacing the whole system then begin with the end in mind and make sure everything will fit. There isn't a lot of room to work with in the Tundra if you want to keep everything hidden.
I've heard of other members placing the amp on the back wall where the factory JBL amp is and splicing into the factory wires. In my opinion it would be just as easy to run new wire and you would end up with a system that handles the power better.
lol, I guess I should have mentioned that pulling wires is a breeze, but taking the truck apart is a pain in the butt.
well I haven't got my speakers yet going to order them from crutchfield. I can't decide between infinity or polk but i'm leaning towards the polks the guys at crutchfield said the i could only fit a shallow mount speaker in the rear doors is this true? Also what are some good 8" subs to put under the rear seats in the storage compartment. Isn't it tough running the new wire through the rubber boot in the doors?
well I haven't got my speakers yet going to order them from crutchfield. I can't decide between infinity or polk but i'm leaning towards the polks the guys at crutchfield said the i could only fit a shallow mount speaker in the rear doors is this true? Also what are some good 8" subs to put under the rear seats in the storage compartment. Isn't it tough running the new wire through the rubber boot in the doors?
Thank's Style67
Not at all. I've done it quite a few times for friends on different cars and trucks. Like I said, the worst part is taking the car apart to get to it. I have an old coat hanger that I folded in half to take the sharp ends off (so I dont poke any factory wires). I feed the hanger thru and then attach the speaker wire with some tape and pull it thru. Leave yourself some slack inside the boot to compensate for the door opening and closing. Run your speaker wires and rca patch cables down one side of the trucks kick panels and run your amps power wire down the other side.
I'm sure there is a much easier way or tool to pull the speakers wires thru, but that has always worked for me just fine.
I dont have an 05 Tundra, but I've heard they are shallow mounts in the rear. Crutchfield is usually correct with what they tell you.
well I haven't got my speakers yet going to order them from crutchfield. I can't decide between infinity or polk but i'm leaning towards the polks the guys at crutchfield said the i could only fit a shallow mount speaker in the rear doors is this true? Also what are some good 8" subs to put under the rear seats in the storage compartment. Isn't it tough running the new wire through the rubber boot in the doors?
Thank's Style67
If you have a double cab, then the Polk DB675 or DB6750 will fit just fine with no mods. I have the 6750's up front and the 675's in the back. Get them, you won't regret buying Polk.
Phil
__________________ 05 White TRD D-Cab, SR5, Limited slip, 20" TRD Enkei's with BFGoodrich G-Force TA NT, All weather guard package, factory rear privacy glass with matching front door tint, Toyota bedliner plus bed mat, Toyota/A.R.E. color keyed tonneau cover, overhead console with temp, compass and Homelink, Toyota/Gentex electrochromatic mirror, keyless, mats, TRD aluminum front skidplate, Toyota/Bazooka VSE 100 watt self-powered subwoofer, TRD stainless exhaust tip, door sill guards, Custom TRD matched pin striping with Toyota logos, painted calipers with TRD letters, TRD billet aluminum third brake light cover with true TRD letters, Pioneer AVIC D-3 GPS head unit with IP Buss controlled Pioneer XM radio tuner and iPod interface, Pac remote(maintains steering wheel controls) Polk Audio speakers DB675 two way in rear, Polk DB6750 components in front powered by a Polk C400.4 4 channel amp, seperate amped Aura Pro Bass Shakers under each front seat, Bazooka EL series 8" 100 watt self-powered subwoofer with Polk Momo driver with quick disconnect, Memphis tweeters in rear, back-up sensors (very handy), foglight mod, Sylvania Silverstars in both head and fog lights, added rear halogen back-up lighting, BellTech 6700 1" lowering shackles, Hellwig anti-sway bar, Magnaflow 14586 Stainless muffler, Wheelskins two-tone leather steering wheel cover, Ventvisors for side and rear windows, custom lower grill insert, Hoppy tailgate spring. More to come!
You have to pull the trim along the door sills, pillars,and kick panels. I guess it goes with out saying that you have to pull the door panels as well this is not hard it just take a little time. There are plenty of posts describing the removal of the door panels.
Once that was done I unclipped the door harness and pushed the rubber boot and harness into the door. Once you have everything in the door it's quite easy. The rubber boots are taped to the harness at both ends. You need to untape the ends of the boot. Once that was done I simply pushed the speaker wire through with my hands (I used 12 gauge wire), then retaped the ends of the boot. The Rubber boot is very easy to reposition. reconnect the harness and run the wire to your amp or head unit.
My system sounds great Jumbo Jet, thanks for asking.
I'm running an Alpine Head Unit (9885), Alpine MRD-M605 Mono Amp to a Kicker Solobaric L78 Sub (in the jack compartment), and an MB Quart PAB-4100 4x100 watt amp to CDT audio components in the front and CDT coaxials in the rear. I never thought my Tundra would sound this good and everything except the head unit is hidden.
By the way the new Alpine has great Ipod control and even works with the Iphone, when connected to the Iphone the music fades when I get a call and comes back when I hang up. It's almost as nice as having the bluetooth add-on with out the $200 price tag.
You can make a lot of different speakers fit in the doors, there has been a lot of talk on this. I did the window track mod which was easier than I thought it would be. I would go with Polk's over the Infinity's although you have many options.
__________________ 2004 Limited DC 4x4 Tundra Phantom Grey -
Bilstien 5100 Level, BFG AT-KO 285-75 18's, Alpine deck, CDT speakers, MB Quart 4100 PAB amp with Alpine MRD 605 amp and Kicker L78S Sub in jack compartment
no help on the speaker wire ?, sorry
i had the polk SR 6500's in my 06 DC. They are going in my 07. I had a JL stealth box in my 06 as well sounded great. Too bad it won't fit in my 07. Gotta sell it and buy a new one.
__________________ 07 TUNDRA White Limited DC 4x4 TRD Mods: Ready Lift, BFG 305/65/18, 5% tint, TRD shifter, Line X, door sill protectors, UWS toolbox, WeatherTech mats / wind deflectors, LifeLong hitch pin, more to follow
05 tundra DC Speaker ? Please help
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