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Audio & StereoTechnical discussions about factory or aftermarket audio and video systems.
This is a discussion thread titled "Sound Deadening: Dynamat/Ensolite project complete", within the Audio & Stereo forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
If it is that easy to rip out the interior then I might want to replace my carpet while I am in there. I have a Pyrite Mica exterior with the beige leather Limited package interior but it has beige carpet which shows up every speck of dirt. I would prefer to replace it with black carpet or maybe even a rubberized floor. Has anyone done that? Wouldn't that sort of act like a sound damper too?
Note: I receive many messages about the NAV Speed Pulse Generator so I continue to build them for people on request. If you want one then just PM me via this forum and include your email address.
Hey Jumbo
Awesome work. I've been following your project and actually just added two amps, HU, speakers to my dc. JL audio 500\1, 300\4 are the amps and boston sl60's up front with boston sl65's in the back. I put the crossovers on the back wall with my amps. I wanted the pro 60's but out of my budget. Anyway my question is the seat mod. If you cut the hooks how does the seat not fall forward. A pic or sketch would be great. I still have my seat out and would like to do this for any tweaking on my amps after the seat is back in. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Hey Jumbo
Awesome work. I've been following your project and actually just added two amps, HU, speakers to my dc. JL audio 500\1, 300\4 are the amps and boston sl60's up front with boston sl65's in the back. I put the crossovers on the back wall with my amps. I wanted the pro 60's but out of my budget. Anyway my question is the seat mod. If you cut the hooks how does the seat not fall forward. A pic or sketch would be great. I still have my seat out and would like to do this for any tweaking on my amps after the seat is back in. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Ryan
Hey Ryan, good to hear from a fellow Boston fan. I thought the Pro 60's were out of my budget too, but my wife found them on ebay for $300 and made them my christmas present. My brother has the SL60's in his truck with 40w each from an Alpine amp and they sound great.
Ok, the deal with the bracket is that the seat hooks (the one that you'll cut) actually slide up quite a ways onto the loop mounted on the back wall. When the seat is in the normal sitting position there is about a good 2 inches of the hook grabbing the loop, they arent going to come down. But when you raise the lower seat up, those hooks slide up on the loop, and with the mod you'll be able to drop the upper seat down. The sweet spot will be having the seat bottom about half way up/down to get the upper to drop.
I'll take a pic of this tomorrow and post it. If you need to put your seats back in today and want to make your cuts first, just cut the black hooks on the back of the seat right above the first hole (the little black hooks have small holes in them). By "the first hole" I mean that the hole is being cut off too. Use the same angle in your cut as the factory did on the hooks. If you dont use the angled cut its more difficult to get it to catch once its going back in.
Hey Ryan, good to hear from a fellow Boston fan. I thought the Pro 60's were out of my budget too, but my wife found them on ebay for $300 and made them my christmas present. My brother has the SL60's in his truck with 40w each from an Alpine amp and they sound great.
Ok, the deal with the bracket is that the seat hooks (the one that you'll cut) actually slide up quite a ways onto the loop mounted on the back wall. When the seat is in the normal sitting position there is about a good 2 inches of the hook grabbing the loop, they arent going to come down. But when you raise the lower seat up, those hooks slide up on the loop, and with the mod you'll be able to drop the upper seat down. The sweet spot will be having the seat bottom about half way up/down to get the upper to drop.
I'll take a pic of this tomorrow and post it. If you need to put your seats back in today and want to make your cuts first, just cut the black hooks on the back of the seat right above the first hole (the little black hooks have small holes in them). By "the first hole" I mean that the hole is being cut off too. Use the same angle in your cut as the factory did on the hooks. If you dont use the angled cut its more difficult to get it to catch once its going back in.
Hope that helps,
Mark
OK I get it! That is exactly what I need to know. Pics would still be greatly appreciated though. Thanks so much for the quick reply. I'll post some pics of my install for you to see how I did my crossovers to help in your decision on where to put yours. By far the hardest thing was pulling the speaker wire throught the boots. Use some type of lube(liquid hand soap) to get it through the boots, it helps a ton. On the rear there is enough room to drill a hole in the botton of the white plastic connector thingy to get the wires through. Still a pain. By the way I put my tweeters in the sail panel and I am very pleased with how they sound. I'm out of town this week on business but I will be happy to post pics of what I did when I get home if you're interested. Thanks again
Ryan
ps. Pretty cool how your wife found your speakers. Mine thinks I'm crazy for how much time I've spent on my truck, especially when I'm just sitting in the driveway cranking the new stereo, my kids think it cool though!
OK I get it! That is exactly what I need to know. Pics would still be greatly appreciated though. Thanks so much for the quick reply. I'll post some pics of my install for you to see how I did my crossovers to help in your decision on where to put yours. By far the hardest thing was pulling the speaker wire throught the boots. Use some type of lube(liquid hand soap) to get it through the boots, it helps a ton. On the rear there is enough room to drill a hole in the botton of the white plastic connector thingy to get the wires through. Still a pain. By the way I put my tweeters in the sail panel and I am very pleased with how they sound. I'm out of town this week on business but I will be happy to post pics of what I did when I get home if you're interested. Thanks again
Ryan
ps. Pretty cool how your wife found your speakers. Mine thinks I'm crazy for how much time I've spent on my truck, especially when I'm just sitting in the driveway cranking the new stereo, my kids think it cool though!
Thanks Ryan, pics of the crossovers would be great. I was worried about the longer run for the tweeter wires, but I guess its not that big a deal. Thanks for the tip on the back speaker wires... much appreciated. My tweeters are also gong in the factory sail panels (Limited angled mount).
Looking forward to those pictures. Take some of the whole setup if you can.
so i'm still wondering if running mud tires would defeat the whole purpose of this project before i drop the money into it??
I'd say that the tires would be the weakest link in the chain. My last truck came with on/off road Goodyears that made quite a bit of noise, once they wore out I put on some nice Michelins and the tire hum completely quit.
I dont think you'll see the full benefit from sound deadening with those tires still on, but it will help.
Thanks Ryan, pics of the crossovers would be great. I was worried about the longer run for the tweeter wires, but I guess its not that big a deal. Thanks for the tip on the back speaker wires... much appreciated. My tweeters are also gong in the factory sail panels (Limited angled mount).
Looking forward to those pictures. Take some of the whole setup if you can.
Thanks,
Mark
Hey Mark
As promised here's a couple pics. I'm new to this and hope it works. I added the remote bass gain control today and would recomend it it works well. I put the gain knob in one of the open switch locations by the steering wheel. Let me know what you think.
As promised here's a couple pics. I'm new to this and hope it works. I added the remote bass gain control today and would recomend it it works well. I put the gain knob in one of the open switch locations by the steering wheel. Let me know what you think.
Looks great! Nice work. What are the amps mounted to under the rubber barrier.... a piece of MDF? I like how the JL amps have all the inputs on the bottoms. My Alpines have the inputs on the sides so I cant put them close like you did. The JL's have a nice clean look when they are paired like that.
Looks great! Nice work. What are the amps mounted to under the rubber barrier.... a piece of MDF? I like how the JL amps have all the inputs on the bottoms. My Alpines have the inputs on the sides so I cant put them close like you did. The JL's have a nice clean look when they are paired like that.
Did you get the seat bracket figured out?
Mark
Yes!!!! The seat mod works perfectly! Thanks so much for the information. On the amp mount. This was more difficult than I hoped but this is what I did. Prepare yourself. I took the bed off and drilled holes in the outer wall and used rubber lined washers and topped off with a little silicone to secure the mdf to the cab wall. This is more than I wanted to do, but glueing the 1/2 in MDF did not work. Taking the bed off is easy however. I'll add some more pics of the entire install whenI get a chance. BTW I used your dimensions
for my sub enclosure and it sounds great. Thanks so much for all the info you have added to this site. If you have any questions I might be of help with just ask, I owe you.
Yes!!!! The seat mod works perfectly! Thanks so much for the information. On the amp mount. This was more difficult than I hoped but this is what I did. Prepare yourself. I took the bed off and drilled holes in the outer wall and used rubber lined washers and topped off with a little silicone to secure the mdf to the cab wall. This is more than I wanted to do, but glueing the 1/2 in MDF did not work. Taking the bed off is easy however. I'll add some more pics of the entire install whenI get a chance. BTW I used your dimensions
for my sub enclosure and it sounds great. Thanks so much for all the info you have added to this site. If you have any questions I might be of help with just ask, I owe you.
Ryan
lol, I'm glad to hear the enclosure sounds good since I havent hooked mine up yet. Thats the best news I've heard all day.
That sucks you had to take the bed off. I ended up using flexible metal back straps to hold the amp rack in place at the top and I used metal "L" brackets to secure it at the bottom. Its pretty solid and will work just fine.
Are your upper seat backs rubbing on those amps with them mounted that high?
Did you read any threads to help you strip the interior? I'm looking to replace my door speakers within the next week or so and plan on deadening the doors while I have the panels off, and eventually will get around to gutting the truck one weekend to do the floor. Any advice to someone who's never done anything like this before?
Did you read any threads to help you strip the interior? I'm looking to replace my door speakers within the next week or so and plan on deadening the doors while I have the panels off, and eventually will get around to gutting the truck one weekend to do the floor. Any advice to someone who's never done anything like this before?
I read a post or two about the doors first, but the seats, floor and center console I pretty much did blind. I've done quite a few audio overhauls before so I wasnt too nervous about tearing apart a brand new truck, I just wanted to make sure I knew where every screw was before hand so I didnt end up forcing something and breaking things. Most car makers use the same basic template for interior construction, so they're all pretty easy to figure out. Fortunately for us the Tundra's are very simple to take apart and gut. I can take the interior down to bare metal in about 40 minutes now, but the first time took me about an hour and a half.
I would highly recommend you deadening the doors and floor, it made all the difference in the world on my truck. As for advice to a first timer, take your time and do it right. Dont schedule it on a day you have other plans cause you never no what might come up and you almost always end up spending more time than you thought. If you can get a buddy to help, thats even better. I did mine alone but I could have probably finished it in half the time with help. By yourself, I'll bet you could get all your doors done in one weekend and then the next weekend do the floors. Thats pretty much how I got it finished.
I always choose not to deaden over the wires. Some people do and forget about it, but I always feel like you never know when you or the dealer will need to access them. On the doors, I just unclipped the wires, Dynamated under them, then re-clipped them in.
Re: Sound Deadening: Dynamat/Ensolite project complete
2006 Toyota Tundra SR5
Linear Mode
