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Audio & StereoTechnical discussions about factory or aftermarket audio and video systems.
This is a discussion thread titled "No clue where to begin", within the Audio & Stereo forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
I want to upgrade my system in my truck. I have no clue where to begin. I am a perfectionist and very meticulous and cannot bear the thought of having some car audio place hack my truck to peices and throw in some junk only to be disappointed a few months down the road. I know what i want just have no clue of how to put it together. head unit isnt a big deal...i get lost when it comes to component speakers and amps and crossovers...and circuit breakers!?!? sigh.
is there a major difference between regular speakers and component speakers?
I have an 08 tundra dc....so i am going to get a couple shallow mount subs. should i get 2 10's or 2 12's.....and how many amps to power it.
and wtf about crossovers!?!?
and once i get all these goodies....i live in jax fl <looking around> anyone a little south of me or north of me wanna help me hook it up??
I want to upgrade my system in my truck. I have no clue where to begin. I am a perfectionist and very meticulous and cannot bear the thought of having some car audio place hack my truck to peices and throw in some junk only to be disappointed a few months down the road. I know what i want just have no clue of how to put it together. head unit isnt a big deal...i get lost when it comes to component speakers and amps and crossovers...and circuit breakers!?!? sigh.
is there a major difference between regular speakers and component speakers?
I have an 08 tundra dc....so i am going to get a couple shallow mount subs. should i get 2 10's or 2 12's.....and how many amps to power it.
and wtf about crossovers!?!?
and once i get all these goodies....i live in jax fl <looking around> anyone a little south of me or north of me wanna help me hook it up??
All a man really needs for happiness in this world is a good woman, a faithful dog, and a big-a$$ed set of tires on his truck.
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Ride: 2001 Tundra SR5, 4WD, The Lean Mean Green Machine, Lift, Front: Bilstein 5100 Adjustable Shocks w/ Total Chaos Diff Drop, Lift, Rear: 1" Wheeler's Blocks, Wheels: Chromed Factory 4Runner Rims, 17", Tires: Bridgestone Revos, 285/70R-17, Performance: Unichip, Borla Exhaust, Optima Yellow-top Battery, Flux Capacitor, Interior: Dog Hair on Back Seat, Coffee Stains on Console, Bling: TRD Grille, Westin Nerf Bars, Clear Corners & Eurotails, Debadged, Audio: Scion T1808 Head Unit, Audiovox XM Express, Shark Fin Antenna, Other: Viair 450C compressor, 2.5 Gallon air tank, Kleinn Pro Series 4-Trumpet air horns, Eye Candy: Hottie Wife in Passenger Seat, Security System: Two Very Large Dogs
Yes, big difference in my opinion. Component speakers will sound better. As far as crossovers, component speakers come with passive crossovers. They are very simple, if I tried to explain how they work I'd probably do more harm than good as I am the worlds worst explainer. Don't worry about it, they are really simple.
I want to upgrade my system in my truck. I have no clue where to begin. I am a perfectionist and very meticulous and cannot bear the thought of having some car audio place hack my truck to peices and throw in some junk only to be disappointed a few months down the road. I know what i want just have no clue of how to put it together. head unit isnt a big deal...i get lost when it comes to component speakers and amps and crossovers...and circuit breakers!?!? sigh.
is there a major difference between regular speakers and component speakers?
I have an 08 tundra dc....so i am going to get a couple shallow mount subs. should i get 2 10's or 2 12's.....and how many amps to power it.
and wtf about crossovers!?!?
and once i get all these goodies....i live in jax fl <looking around> anyone a little south of me or north of me wanna help me hook it up??
On the north you have a good one,close from you.Is tech12 volts he is a member and sale sound systems in the forum.I drove from palm beach to south georgia for my sub box.Send him a pm.
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2007 DC,Blue strike metallic,BBS rims,3rd ligth cover,x-sp,trd,calipers painted in blue.Chrome strips around the tailgate,,bug shield,wind deflectors.Side bed rails.G2 bakflip cover.TRD CAI,Alpine 2-1023d woofer,6x9 front dr,and 6x5 back dr speakers.1 Hifonics amp 4 channels,1-1000 wtts crunch amp for woofers.Dynamat all dr's,and back wall.Head ligths paint mod in black. Custom box 2 -10" woofers by Tech12volts.Chrome towing mirror covers,tail gate handle chrome cover,dr handle chrome cover.Billet grill top and bottom and bumper insert.Custom made dr sill's and dr pillar overlay by Billet technology.Stebel horn.More to come.
I want to upgrade my system in my truck. I have no clue where to begin. I am a perfectionist and very meticulous and cannot bear the thought of having some car audio place hack my truck to peices and throw in some junk only to be disappointed a few months down the road. I know what i want just have no clue of how to put it together. head unit isnt a big deal...i get lost when it comes to component speakers and amps and crossovers...and circuit breakers!?!? sigh.
is there a major difference between regular speakers and component speakers?
I have an 08 tundra dc....so i am going to get a couple shallow mount subs. should i get 2 10's or 2 12's.....and how many amps to power it.
and wtf about crossovers!?!?
and once i get all these goodies....i live in jax fl <looking around> anyone a little south of me or north of me wanna help me hook it up??
Yeah you are about 1 hour and half from me.
Components sound much better than coaxial and they come with the specified crossovers in almost all cases.
Subs in that truck i would do 2 10s and you do have to go with a shallow sub . there are some normal depth subs that work great.
A simple basic system is simply adding a sub/amp combo. This allows your stock speakers to play without distortion by taking the bass from them and sending it to the sub. It's simple to put in, and will sound killer. Elemental Designs carries a Shallow 10" and a Nine.2 amp that will sound killer.
As far as mids/highs and their amps, if you are going to go that route, dont skimp. Get good quality front "components" and a powerful (100x2 at least) amp for the front. Leave the rear speakers as they are only used for fill anyway, so they dont have to have exaggerated bass or bright highs, just fill. Also, get something like the MTX eq, it takes out the stock EQ curves from the stock h/u and sends a clean signal to the amps.
__________________ 2003 Toyota Tundra V8 4x4 AC Exterior: Trd Off-Road package, Trd Skid Plate, Borla Side Exit Exhaust, 30% Lumar tint, Enkei Deep Six 20's, 275/60/20 Cooper Zeon LTZ, Bilstein 5100's, Toytec add-a-leaf, Wilson 1000. Interior: Alpine 9851, CDT 6.5" components, Alpine MRP-F240, MRD-M300, eD SQ 10".
i have those shallow 10''s. two of them actually. i am selling them now but when i had them in they did a decent job. about as much as you can ask out of a shallow sub. pioneer, kicker, kenwood, mb quart, and RE all make shallow 10's too if you want to check them out. about the crossovers, usually when you buy the speakers/crossovers if comes with a little pamphlet that shows you how to hook them up. and if you got stuck at any point you can always use google or us to help you figure it out.
edit: oh and when set up correctly there is a huge difference between stock and after market speakers. especially if you have an amp to power those speakers.
ok should i get an amp to power the sub only and then another amp to maybe power the other speakers? What kind of sound is produced from two shallow tens versus two shallow 12's? not tryin to win any competitions...but when i crank it up...i want chills......and people to say....daaaaaaaamn. hahaha
If you want 2 subs, you should use 2 amps, one for highs, one for subs. Dual subs are more than likely put a 2ohm load on the amp, and most 4channel amps arent 2ohm stable on bridgeing.
__________________ 2003 Toyota Tundra V8 4x4 AC Exterior: Trd Off-Road package, Trd Skid Plate, Borla Side Exit Exhaust, 30% Lumar tint, Enkei Deep Six 20's, 275/60/20 Cooper Zeon LTZ, Bilstein 5100's, Toytec add-a-leaf, Wilson 1000. Interior: Alpine 9851, CDT 6.5" components, Alpine MRP-F240, MRD-M300, eD SQ 10".
If you want 2 subs, you should use 2 amps, one for highs, one for subs. Dual subs are more than likely put a 2ohm load on the amp, and most 4channel amps arent 2ohm stable on bridgeing.
Actually if you do a 4 channel with two subs you just need 8 ohm subs or dvc 4 ohm. This way the amp would be at a bridged 4 ohm load. 4 channel and a 2channel is fine as is a 5 channel . But a 4 channel will work correctly as well. You just have to match the vc of the subs to the output of the amp in all cases.
i say you just run two amps. yes there are 5 channel and 4 channel amps that will do the job but you will have a much greater range of options if you just get a small (50-150RMS) 4 channel amp for your speakers. and a mono channel amp for your subwoofers. for the differences it really just depends on what subwoofers you plan to go with. usually 10's can hit the faster paced stuff like rock and metal easier then 12's but 12's can get lower bass. theres also a lot more that goes into it then just subwoofers, but thats usually how i make my first choice to go for 10's or 12's.
Actually if you do a 4 channel with two subs you just need 8 ohm subs or dvc 4 ohm. This way the amp would be at a bridged 4 ohm load. 4 channel and a 2channel is fine as is a 5 channel . But a 4 channel will work correctly as well. You just have to match the vc of the subs to the output of the amp in all cases.
Yeah, I know that, but I just assume that this isnt going to be a huge 4channel, and the average 4ch amp wont push 2 8-ohm subs to their full potential.
__________________ 2003 Toyota Tundra V8 4x4 AC Exterior: Trd Off-Road package, Trd Skid Plate, Borla Side Exit Exhaust, 30% Lumar tint, Enkei Deep Six 20's, 275/60/20 Cooper Zeon LTZ, Bilstein 5100's, Toytec add-a-leaf, Wilson 1000. Interior: Alpine 9851, CDT 6.5" components, Alpine MRP-F240, MRD-M300, eD SQ 10".
I agree with Brandon, if you're going to run 2 subs then you probably want one amp for the subs and one for the components/rears. If you're only running 1 sub, you could get away with a single 4/5 channel amp to run everything. I have a 300W mono sub amp pushing my single 10 and another 4 channel amp bridged to 100x2 and couldn't be happier. Whatever you do, GET COMPONENTS. By far one of the best additions you can me with high quality sound system.
PS, congrats on the acceptance to NC State Brandon. That should give you plenty of time to prepare yourself for the @$$ kicking Clemson will be handing out September 13th
PS, congrats on the acceptance to NC State Brandon. That should give you plenty of time to prepare yourself for the @$$ kicking Clemson will be handing out September 13th
Haha, i'm just happy to be in school, dont care about sports lol!!!
__________________ 2003 Toyota Tundra V8 4x4 AC Exterior: Trd Off-Road package, Trd Skid Plate, Borla Side Exit Exhaust, 30% Lumar tint, Enkei Deep Six 20's, 275/60/20 Cooper Zeon LTZ, Bilstein 5100's, Toytec add-a-leaf, Wilson 1000. Interior: Alpine 9851, CDT 6.5" components, Alpine MRP-F240, MRD-M300, eD SQ 10".
First do not think I am trying to argue with anyone but I have 17 years in the car audio industry and some of these replies are not entirely true. There are are 5 channel amps that will run an entire system . Memphis makes one thats 4 by 75 and 1000 by 1. Not my first choice as amps go but they are out there.
There are also plenty of 4 channel amps that will run a set of front comps and a pair of sub. Prime example Sundown 100.4 . Rear speakers are just there to create ambience anyway. So no real power is needed to run them correctly . Lately audio companies have created this illusion that you need 1000 watts of power for a pair of tens. Its an audio MYTH. For years we never installed an amp over 600 to 800 watts and we would run 8 subs off of these amps.
No clue where to begin
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