standard subs in 07 DC - Page 3 - Toyota Tundra Forums : Tundra Solutions Forum

Bocephus · #31 (**permalink**) 10-07-2008, 11:47 PM

good idea jet. i just used the same adapters i had made for my previous vehicle. they worked, so i didnt want to waste the time and money of making new ones.

by the way jet, what kind of saw did you use to cut those so nice?

PITBULL JOE · #32 (**permalink**) 10-08-2008, 07:44 AM

Thanks for the help. i went through that yesterday, i took them back off and will trim them today using the stock speaker as a template. i'll have to play with it because my speaker hit the window rod when it was too close toward the window jam so i have to make sure the speaker sits at the rear of the speaker hole. i also would like the make the adapter so the speakers tilt upward some to maximize the volume of the speaker.

Bocephus · #33 (**permalink**) 10-08-2008, 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PITBULL JOE

Thanks for the help. i went through that yesterday, i took them back off and will trim them today using the stock speaker as a template. i'll have to play with it because my speaker hit the window rod when it was too close toward the window jam so i have to make sure the speaker sits at the rear of the speaker hole. i also would like the make the adapter so the speakers tilt upward some to maximize the volume of the speaker.

i was worried about the speaker hitting the window stuff in the back as well because like i said before, i made these adapters for my frontier i had before the tundra. i lucked out, and they worked.

Jumbo Jet · #34 (**permalink**) 10-08-2008, 08:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bocephus

by the way jet, what kind of saw did you use to cut those so nice?

Thanks Bo. I just used my jigsaw. I cut the center hole first on the MDF sheet, then cut the mount. They have the angled mount trim ring on them so they arent pointed at my shins, but more towards my ears. I had to build a jig to make those but it wasnt too hard. They have about 3-4 coats of paint and then a coat of sealant to keep water from turning them in to oatmeal.

PITBULL JOE · #35 (**permalink**) 10-08-2008, 10:04 AM

how did you make the angle, i want to do that?

Jumbo Jet · #36 (**permalink**) 10-08-2008, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PITBULL JOE

how did you make the angle, i want to do that?

Hey Joe, this is how I did it.

I took two small pieces of 1/2" MDF and cut a hole in one of them that was the outside circumference of my trim ring. Then I glued the two together to make this jig.

After the jig was ready I glued in a very small block of scrap MDF to make a riser on one side of the jig. Center the riser and mark a center line on your trim ring. Line the two up so each trim ring that comes out of the jig will be identical (mark the bottom too cause you'll be sanding off your mark on the top). Lightly glue in your trim ring, one dab on the riser and the other on the flat side.

I used an upright belt sander with 50 grit paper, it goes right thru the MDF like butter. Sand the trim ring down until it sits flush with the jig.

Since you didnt use much glue the trim ring will pop right out and now have a nice angle on it. Since you marked it earlier you can now line it up to where you want it to sit on the mounting plate. I used a long wooden dowel centered in the ring to help me find my correct angles. I pointed it as close to my ears as I could. Once I had one side adjusted I just repeated it on the other side. Last but not least I put on about 4 coats of flat black paint then a flat sealant to protect it from water dripping into the door.

Hope that helps.

PITBULL JOE · #37 (**permalink**) 10-09-2008, 07:47 AM

Thanks Mark, i'll play with the idea

PITBULL JOE · #38 (**permalink**) 10-20-2008, 08:51 AM

i did the seat mod and finally put the brackets back and installed the small seat. when the bottom of the seat is folded up the back of the seat is pushed by the amp and top of the seat comes off the hinge. i will have to play with it more to see if i can get it right.

my audio order from Sonic Electronix is supoosed to be delivered today...finally. when i called last Tuesday to see if they got the dash kit into stock (which they did) i was informed my order was still on back order because they only had 1 of the 2 RCA's i ordered. so i had to switch to another brand, i'm not even sure what brand...i just wanted my order.

Jumbo Jet · #39 (**permalink**) 10-20-2008, 09:07 AM

lol, the waiting is the hardest part. Glad to hear you'll be in business soon.

Bocephus · #40 (**permalink**) 10-20-2008, 09:19 AM

im not sure i quite understand you problems with the seat....but try this. take a hammer and beat the hinges on the rear wall up about 1/2''-3/4''. this will enable the hooks on the seats to latch onto them better when the hinges on the seat raise up.

maybe im understanding your problem wrong........if so, ignore my comment

PITBULL JOE · #41 (**permalink**) 10-21-2008, 07:43 AM

Bo, i dont think that would help...the problem maybe the 3/8" plywood i used has bowed out so the amps stick out a little bit. when i try to raise the bottom of the seat up, i get about 3/4 of the way up and the back of the seat goes backwards as the latch pivots on the hinge. this is when the back of the seat pushes against the amp and the latch comes off the hinge, i may have cut the latch a little short but any longer and the seat wouldnt tilt forward. for now i'm not going to worry about it, i wont be lifting the bottom of the seats up once the box is under the driver side and not much will fit under the passenger side. once i'm ready to dynamat the truck i'll carpet a new sheet of wood (MDF) and do it right.

The order finally came in last night. i'll have to go through yall threads again on how to take the center console and dash apart and will probably start on it tomorrow morning.

Jumbo Jet · #42 (**permalink**) 10-21-2008, 03:29 PM

Thats the problem with ply wood, its never true and almost always warps. MDF is usually pretty perfect.

PITBULL JOE · #43 (**permalink**) 10-22-2008, 11:16 PM

ok...i'm kind of pissed. oh, by the way thanks again Mark. ok, after fighting with the truck's interior i got everything in place minus a couple of those white things that hold the trim together. well after fighting to get the dash speakers in, running the remote wire and RCA's to the rear, i put the plugged the radio harness in and since the dash speakers are running of the radio i should of got sound...well i didnt. i took the radio back out and checked wire connection to the dash speakers which was good, then i ran wire from another set of the radio's speaker wire to speaker i had laying around and that would didnt sound either. so i checked the fuse in the back of the radio and it's good, so now i'm stuck. the only thing i can think of is there's an internal fuse blown or the HU is shot, it comes on and fuctions like its supposed to just no sound.

i will be calling alpine tomorrow to see if they can tell me what the problem is.

Bocephus · #44 (**permalink**) 10-22-2008, 11:26 PM

how do you have the dash speakers and door speakers hooked up? i read in another thread that the OEM tweeters and door speakers are wired in parallel. depending on how you have everything hooked up, this could be the problem.

PITBULL JOE · #45 (**permalink**) 10-23-2008, 07:46 AM

i ran the dash speakers directly from the radio with new 16g wire. the door speakers have new 16g wire ran from the amps. so there shouldnt be a problem since i'm bypassing all the factory wiring.

i'll test the RCA output of the radio and if they work i have a in-dash EQ that i will run off one of the RCA outputs (still leaves 2) and wire the dash speakers off it.