Sub Opinions

[jjc]

I am getting ready to start working on my new stereo install and was looking into the following subs, anyone have an opinion on which would be the best choice for running in a QLogic dual 8" enclosure? I'm planning on moving my front 6.5" CDT separates from my doors to QLogic kick panels and leaving my MB Quarts coaxials in the rear doors. I currently only have one old beat a$$ Phoenix Gold Tantrum T600.4 amp, I would like to use this amp since it's paid for - so I was thinking about possibly ditching the rear MB Quarts door speakers and running the front CDT's off the front channel and subs off the rear channel of my current amp????? My biggest challenge is space since I am installing a full interior roll cage and racing seats, I am attempting to make the QLogic sub box fit within the cage and plan on having it LineX'd with the floor pan. I also need to figure out some sort of speaker grilles since the subs will be exposed. Still trying to figure out a decent (& simple) head unit to throw in - maybe an Alpine?

Here are the subs that I'm interested in:

1. Resonant Engineering RE8's
2. Image Dynamics
3. Elemental Designs 9kv.2's
4. CDT EF80's


Here are the specs for my current amp:

4 Channel 600 Watt Tantrum Amplifier
Amplifier Type: Multi-Channel
RMS Power: 75W x 4
Bridged RMS Power: 300W x 2
THD at Rated RMS Power: n/a
Speaker Level Inputs: Yes
Preamp Outputs: Yes
Built-In Crossovers: HP/LP
Bass Boost: 0-18 dB
Frequency Response: 20-20,000 Hz
Thermally Efficient Heatsink
Timed Acoustically Integrated Muting (TAIM)
Differential RCA or Speaker Level Inputs
Tri-Linear Capability Allows Simultaneous Stereo and Bridged Operation
18dB / Octave High-Pass, Band-Pass, and Low-Pass Crossovers
40Hz to 800Hz Continuously Variable Crossover Frequency
Auxiliary Outputs Route Inverse Crossover Signals
Variable Twin-"T" Bass EQ Circuit Provides Up to 18 dB of Boost at 45 Hz
Optional RMD Remote Monitoring Display Port
Optional LPL Low Pass Level Controller Allows for Drivers Seat Adjustment of Bass Volume
2 Ohms Bridged / 1 Ohm Stereo Stable


My Front Separates:

CDT EF-61CFi/24 - 6.5" 2 way carbon fiber drivers & 1" silk dome tweeters

150 watts rms @ 4 ohms

I would appreciate any opinions on how to make my current amp work out and also what type of subs & head unit (double DIN chassis w/ CD player) to go with. I just want a decent sounding system with a little low end - nothing too fancy.

[czechm8]

Out of those four, I would go with 1,2 or 3.

1. RE - I've never owned RE subs, but I've only heard good things about them. Don't know if the US Amps/RE marriage will affect the build quality or not.

2. ID - Again, I've never owned ID subs, but I do have a set of their comps and they are pretty good. I've heard very good SQ comments about the ID subs.

3. ED - Probably the best bang for your $$. Good SQ. A pair of dual 4 ohm 9kv2's would be perfect for the power you have on hand. They can handle the 300 watts each. They do well in small enclosures and even better ported.

[Eddie]

Won't the rear tubes of the cage mount where the factory storage panel frames are? If I were you,I'd built a box with a single 10" or 12" instead of the Q-Logic enclosure. Or do you already have the Q-Logic enclosure?

Keep the CDTs in the doors,you'll probably lose midbass due to the lack of enclosure volume in a kickpanel. Besides they'll probably get damaged from...feet kicking the panels

Originally Posted by jjc

I currently only have one old beat a$$ Phoenix Gold Tantrum T600.4 amp, I would like to use this amp since it's paid for - so I was thinking about possibly ditching the rear MB Quarts door speakers and running the front CDT's off the front channel and subs off the rear channel of my current amp?????

If the amp still works fine,reuse it. Ditching the rear MBQs to power a sub is a good idea,no need to buy another amp.

You were asking about an Alpine double-DIN headunit,current models have touchscreens and play DVDs. The lower model (IVA-W205) sells for around $550 on ebay and $700 from authorized retailers.

[jjc]

Originally Posted by Eddie

Won't the rear tubes of the cage mount where the factory storage panel frames are? If I were you,I'd built a box with a single 10" or 12" instead of the Q-Logic enclosure. Or do you already have the Q-Logic enclosure?

Keep the CDTs in the doors,you'll probably lose midbass due to the lack of enclosure volume in a kickpanel. Besides they'll probably get damaged from...feet kicking the panels



If the amp still works fine,reuse it. Ditching the rear MBQs to power a sub is a good idea,no need to buy another amp.

You were asking about an Alpine double-DIN headunit,current models have touchscreens and play DVDs. The lower model (IVA-W205) sells for around $550 on ebay and $700 from authorized retailers.

I'm hoping to work around the Qlogic since it's already in my garage and brand new, I may end up having to sell it though. I was planning on trying to keep the two shelves installed on the rear floor board just so I have a flat area to pack in my camping gear.......but I may end up losing them both.

One of my friends has offered to donate his Soundstream 60.2 Granite (?) amp if I want it, so I could use the Phoenix Gold amp on the CDT's and the Sound Strream on the subs.

The main reason I want to move the speakers is because I run tube doors up front and that way I could have front speakers when the factory doors are off.

These doors aren't real accomodating for speakers !

[jjc]

After looking up the specs on the Soundstream amp I think I'm just sticking with running my PG amp, I would have to use coils if I let the SS power the subs.

So my PG amp is supposed to be stable at 2 ohms, if I go with two of the ED 9kv.2 woofers I guess I should get them in 2 ohm correct (instead of 4 ohm)?

[czechm8]

Yes, a pair of dual 2 ohm subs wired to a 2 ohm final load.
My bad. I'm so used to using 1 ohm stable amps that I always think of a 1 ohm load.

[Eddie]

Originally Posted by jjc

I'm hoping to work around the Qlogic since it's already in my garage and brand new, I may end up having to sell it though. I was planning on trying to keep the two shelves installed on the rear floor board just so I have a flat area to pack in my camping gear.......but I may end up losing them both.

One of my friends has offered to donate his Soundstream 60.2 Granite (?) amp if I want it, so I could use the Phoenix Gold amp on the CDT's and the Sound Strream on the subs.

The main reason I want to move the speakers is because I run tube doors up front and that way I could have front speakers when the factory doors are off.

These doors aren't real accomodating for speakers !

LOL,didn't realize you're running tube doors. I guess tell the passengers to watch their feet then....will the kicks get Line-X'd too?

You can probably lay a panel over the Q-Logic instead of getting grills,since the subs are sunken down a bit. I don't think my subs ever contacted the underside of the seat cushion.

[jjc]

The more I think about it, I have modified my kicks to be removed quickly to accomodate door removal......so the Qlogic kicks would not be that great of an application anyways.

I think I'm going back to plan B - leave the CDT's in the front doors & keep the Quartz in the back, that way I will at least have some stereo capabilty from the rears when the front doors are off.

Wish there was such a thing as a decent 5-channel amp that wouldn't break the bank. Otherwise, my best bet will probably be to find a high power HU so I can run the rear speakers off it and run the CDT's & ED subs off the PG amp.

[jjc]

After looking around on ebay, seems like there are a few 5-channel amps in the $250 range (MB Quartz / JL / Kicker / Hifonics / Infinity / etc)

Now I am definitely going to need help......if you haven't noticed by my current amp, I'm a little behind the times.......but I do have a cool transfer case !

[unionxc]

just throwing this out there i have some ED 9kv.2s I am looking to sell just let me know if your interested.

[Old Heathen]

If you're going to use the 9Kv subs, you'll need as much power as you can manage. They're very inefficient even wired at low impedance. After this test, mine are sitting on a shelf collecting dust.

The green trace is the 9kV as 2 ohms, the red trace is a JL 8W3v3 (8-ohm) and the pink trace is a Vifa PL22 (6 ohms). They're all run at identical voltages.

[jjc]

What's the best (most effiecient) 8" sub for the money? I will not have a whole lot of power to throw at them for sure. I prefer going with something other than the mainstream brands - I've only ran JL & Kicker in the recent past and would like to try something different if it makes sense.

[jjc]

ftp://www.rodinaudio.com/Phoenix%20G...ls/Amplifiers/

Ok, I finally found a little info on my amp on the PG website under the Tantrum 400.4_600.4 manual, but now I'm really confused......

I want to be able to run my front CDT separates off the front channel and two DVC 8" woofers off the rear (guess they don't have to be DVC?) channel. I can't figure out what ohm woofers I need to get the most out of my amp. It looks like the amp develops the most for me in 2-ohm stereo (150x4), but I can't figure out how to get there....I see how to get to 2 ohm bridged by running (2) 2-ohm woofers in a series/parallel configuration, but what would put me in 2-ohm stereo mode?

[Old Heathen]

They don't have to be DVC subs.

Some non-traditional but good 8" sub choices with high efficiency:
Dayton QT210 (Parts Express)
Silver Flute W20RC38 (Madisound)
Vifa PL22WR09 (Madisound)

If had great results from the Vifa, but it's twice the cost of the others. And don't let the looks of these drivers fool you... zero bling factor since it's unnecessary for good sound.

To get the most from your amp into only one pair of subs, use two 8-ohm subs in parallel, then bridge the amp into that pair. The other option is to use a 2 ohm sub on each channel in stereo.

[jjc]

Originally Posted by Old Heathen

They don't have to be DVC subs.

Some non-traditional but good 8" sub choices with high efficiency:
Dayton QT210 (Parts Express)
Silver Flute W20RC38 (Madisound)
Vifa PL22WR09 (Madisound)

If had great results from the Vifa, but it's twice the cost of the others. And don't let the looks of these drivers fool you... zero bling factor since it's unnecessary for good sound.

To get the most from your amp into only one pair of subs, use two 8-ohm subs in parallel, then bridge the amp into that pair. The other option is to use a 2 ohm sub on each channel in stereo.

I'm only planning on running the subs off the rear channel, so just use the L/R speaker terminals to power two 2-ohm woofers in stereo and don't bridge the rear?