Hey guys. I really hope you can help me, since my installer is at a loss. I have a Pioneer F900BT and am using a TYTO Metra harness to integrate into the factory JBL amp. I know I should bypass and all that, but I really want to keep this simple.
I have tried adjusting the gain and such to solve the problem, but to no avail. For some reason, the dash and center fronts cut out, or lose high frequency response intermittently. Almost sounds like they just cut out for a second at a time. Never lasts more than a second or two. I have noticed that the PAC Audio harness requires a 4V input, but the F900 only supplies 2V. Metra does not say that they want 4V, so I don't know what the difference could be. I ried using PAC Turbo 1 line boosters, and got RIDICULOUS alternator noise.
Should I switch to the PAC Tato or Scosche unit? I have tried heavy grounds, and even ran a ground all the way back to the battery, and the noise does not eliminate from the line boosters, so I took them out.
SURELY there is a way to make this work correctly. The F900 worked perfectly with my F150 stereo and and amp setup, so this has to work eventually, right?
Hey guys. I really hope you can help me, since my installer is at a loss. I have a Pioneer F900BT and am using a TYTO Metra harness to integrate into the factory JBL amp. I know I should bypass and all that, but I really want to keep this simple.
I have tried adjusting the gain and such to solve the problem, but to no avail. For some reason, the dash and center fronts cut out, or lose high frequency response intermittently. Almost sounds like they just cut out for a second at a time. Never lasts more than a second or two. I have noticed that the PAC Audio harness requires a 4V input, but the F900 only supplies 2V. Metra does not say that they want 4V, so I don't know what the difference could be. I ried using PAC Turbo 1 line boosters, and got RIDICULOUS alternator noise.
Should I switch to the PAC Tato or Scosche unit? I have tried heavy grounds, and even ran a ground all the way back to the battery, and the noise does not eliminate from the line boosters, so I took them out.
SURELY there is a way to make this work correctly. The F900 worked perfectly with my F150 stereo and and amp setup, so this has to work eventually, right?
Re: Pioneer F900BT to JBL Synthesis, 2008 Sequoia...
IMO I would take the JBL out of the loop and go with an aftermarket amp. My past experience with line level inputs gave me a lot of headahces. An aftermarket amp would also reduce overall distortion. Just my 2 cents.
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2008 DC Radiant Red 5.7 4wd
Stebel 300hz Truck Horn
Black Nerf Bars
Pioneer AVIC-F900BT
Boyo Backup Camera
Advantage Tonneau
My first step is to replace the Metra unit with a Scosche unit. It even happens on the bluetooth from the Pioneer (which makes sense, since it is coming from the headunit). I have read through massive message board searches that "sound shift" can be a problem with the TYTO harness, which perfectly describes what is happening in the vehicle.
I will post pictures of the final install if this unit stays in the truck. It looks pretty seemless in the dash, like it was meant for it. When the Synthesis sounds good, it sounds REALLY good with the F900BT head unit pushing it. Hopefully this will work, since I have a stinkin' $250 backup camera headed my way.
It seems like its been awhile since anyone has written in this thread, and I hope its not dead. Anyway, I'm hoping to install the AVIC-Z110BT in my ride, and I'm trying to gather all the info I can. This exactly describes what I'm trying to accomplish (well, with different head unit). I have the 14-speaker JBL Synthesis system, and would like to retain the stock speakers and amp. I hope by replacing the head unit I'm not opening a can of worms, one that will require a lot of extra dough to fix. Also, I have the factory backup camera and wonder if anyone has been successful integrating an aftermarket head unit with the stock camera?
I used the Scosche adapter, and the Metra adapter. Both phased in and out when the level got too low, I assume. I just got of the phone with PAC Audio, and they said that this is a known issue with all adapters, regardless of line output. You have to bypass all together for it to sound right.
Thinking pretty hard about it. There is a guy who can program the factory unit to be unlocked, and I'd like it to play a DVD. If I can make that happen, then yeah, I'm going to do that.
I've talked to a few installers this past weekend. They all said they would bypass the stock equipment (no surprise there) because of this problem. I'm definitely interested in how it goes with your install of the TATO unit and its consistency.
Quick question, how many speakers do you have total?
The tato is perfect, except that the orange/white wire on the harness burned up my rheostat. No need to hook that in. I don't know how many speakers there are. I just know I have the synthesis system. I'm not an audiophile, but I do occasionally like to hear some loud, clean music. That's why I am not putting in a system quite yet.
I came close to buying the z110bt when I bought the Sequoia, but I stuck with the f900bt. The z is far better, but I had the f900, and it didn't add value to my f150 trade in, so I figured I would just dump the extra $2,000 into the truck instead of the z.
Make sure you check out avic411.com and get the buypass instructions. Easy as pie. I haven't done any mods or hacks, but the buypass is a 100% must have!