Did the 03' trucks come with power amplifiers? The wiring diagram does not show it for the 03's, but my truck has one?? I only ask because looking at the wiring diagrams for the 00-02 tundras it shows radio and player diagrams with and without the power amplifier, but the diagram for the 03' does not. Also, is there any way that the Radio and Player diagram for the 03' could have a typo? it shows that the right rear midbass gets a pos and a neg (+) and (-), but that the left rear midbass gets two pos (+) and (+).
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I believe that 6 speaker systems (including the tweeters) have an amp and the 4 speaker systems do not. At least this was the case with my 4 speaker (Front only) 2001 regular cab.
Does anyone know the power of the factory amps? And any thoughts on component speakers that sound good powered with it? Looking to upgrade speakers all around for now. Thanks in advance.
Does anyone know the power of the factory amps? And any thoughts on component speakers that sound good powered with it? Looking to upgrade speakers all around for now. Thanks in advance.
Yes the 03's have a built in amp, it's behind the dash and bolted to the firewall. I don't know for sure but I thought I heard that it was like 20 watts for the fronts and 14 for the rears. Not really much going on with it, rear speakers are like 6 ohms and the fronts are 4, I think. If you're thinking of upgrading, I highly recommend upgrading the amp (If you're going high power) or at least, upgrade the head unit (lower power). Check my sig. as there is a picture of the stock speaks. One look at the factory speakers and you'll understand why they sound so blah.
you will definatly have to have an amp or hu for components. They need at least 25 watts rms to sound even halfway decent.
Brandon
I'm backing Brandon on this one. Comps. really need an amp to drive them. My only thought is if you're really strapped for cash, if you found some very sensitive coax speakers (like 93 dB), you could get away with head unit power.
Thanks for the input guys. By looking at the Crutchfield speaker fittings, they have Alpines SPS-170A coaxs with 92dB sensitivity, 2-40 RMS for the rear and Pioneers TS-C1653 6.5 comps with 90dB sensitivity, also 2-40 RMS for the fronts. If I go this route, I will need to hear these speakers, but they have to sound dramatically better than the stock cones right? Or should I not even waste my time?
Thanks for the input guys. By looking at the Crutchfield speaker fittings, they have Alpines SPS-170A coaxs with 92dB sensitivity, 2-40 RMS for the rear and Pioneers TS-C1653 6.5 comps with 90dB sensitivity, also 2-40 RMS for the fronts. If I go this route, I will need to hear these speakers, but they have to sound dramatically better than the stock cones right? Or should I not even waste my time?
Well this is just my opinion of course, but I think the 92 dB would be better just looking at the sens. not necessarily the brand or quality of the speaker. Most times (not always), when they spec. speaker power if the first or starting number is low like 2, in your case, that implies that head unit power would be fine. This is because for the most part most head units really only put of 15-20 Max., not what they claim, or PEAK numbers which don't really matter. It's not to say that the other speakers which are 90 dB and are spec'd to run (2-40) would be bad either but it might be quieter than you'd lke. As an example, my last Toy truck had Infinity Kappa comps., rated at 89 dB, and I had around 100 watts a piece to them, and I really had to crank it up to get any appreciable level out of them, and that's with 100 watts. 90 dB is starting to get into that (might be loud enough, might not) range.
I've used plenty of 6X9's and 6.5 coaxiles in other installs that were 92 or 93 dB and the head unit was plenty. Unless you really understand the dB scale, it's confusing.
To get (for example) the same output out of a speaker rated at 89 dB, and a speaker rated 92 dB, you'd have to put twice the power to the 89 dB speaker as it is 3 dB LESS sens. It may not sound like alot but as the power multiples go up, it gets VERY expensive to double power., ie. 10,20,40,80,160,.320, etc.
Just my .02
As far as the "should I bother or not". You can't go wrong with ANY speaker choice. Check my sig. and look at my photo of the stock driver. Very lame. I was really expecting MORE with my "6 speaker Premium system", but alas, it is a Dealer system. I think any speakers, with or without an amp, will make you very happy.
And the great thing is, if you decide it's just not quite what you want, then you can find a cheap amp and throw quite a bit more power to them. Back in the olden days I had a '79 Z28 with Jensen Triax II 6x9s powered by a Sparkomatic amp!! Still sounded a helluva lot better than stock.
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And the great thing is, if you decide it's just not quite what you want, then you can find a cheap amp and throw quite a bit more power to them. Back in the olden days I had a '79 Z28 with Jensen Triax II 6x9s powered by a Sparkomatic amp!! Still sounded a helluva lot better than stock.
I'll second the Sparkomatic, and raise you a Kraco.
SD-
Class is in session!
Which spec is more critical then, the sensitivity level or the recommended power range? Let's say for instance a comp system with 10-100 RMS and 92dB vs. comp system with 2-40 RMS and 90dB? (unfortunately powered by the factory installed amp for now anyway) Thanks.
And the great thing is, if you decide it's just not quite what you want, then you can find a cheap amp and throw quite a bit more power to them. Back in the olden days I had a '79 Z28 with Jensen Triax II 6x9s powered by a Sparkomatic amp!! Still sounded a helluva lot better than stock.
OKC,
In the '60's I used to put 2 8" Radio Shack speakers in the bottoms of 18" tall round rubber garbage cans turned upside down, screwed to the floor behind the rear seat of my VW's and drive 'em with a Sparko or some kind of $20 amp and they were swell. Of course you had to duck if you did like I did one night and rear ended a Buick. Those suckers came across both seats and put some dents in the windshield.
bill, grand funk killed my ears, g
SD-
Class is in session!
Which spec is more critical then, the sensitivity level or the recommended power range? Let's say for instance a comp system with 10-100 RMS and 92dB vs. comp system with 2-40 RMS and 90dB? (unfortunately powered by the factory installed amp for now anyway) Thanks.
I'd say the sens. would be more important. The recomended power is more secondary. I think OKC is right. Better to buy a higher quality, or more appealing to you (could be less sens.) speaker, and decide later if you've got enough power or not, as opposed to a crappy (very efficient) speaker that will sound bad, or you will not like regardless of the power. Go with the sens. spec. if you have to choose.
Power Amplifier?
Still sounded a helluva lot better than stock.
Linear Mode
