Just Finished Stage 1 Of My Stereo!!!!!!!!

[Brandon1]

Well, stage one is done. My and my dad installed the components in the front, and the 440w amp under the seat, and the rear coaxials. After 4 afternoons work, and 3 days of driving to school with no passenger seat, the results are pretty good. I am taking the truck to a stero shop in my area to get them to tweak the system, and install a new kicker comp 10" run of the back channels of the amp, and converting the rear speakers back to stock power to power the woofer. The Kicker components are nice, although the bass is bottoming out so I have them high-passed at about 50hz, and the rear speakers are low passed to about 400hz. The system sounds nearly great with this setup, but is just lacking in low end, witch I think will make my whole system sound better. I just have a few questions about fine tuning my system.

1. Will the amp handle running a component set and a 10" sub?
2. Would the best idea to be to convert the rear speakers back to stock power so I can run the sub?
3. The Kicker comp is supposed to work as a free air sub, will it work mounted to a baffle under the rear seat and having the compartment dynamated? I know it will sound better in a box, but my father has his mind set on that it dosent need a box, so he is not going to mess with putting it in.
4. My system will go fairly loud now, will the comp keep up with my mids and highs?
5. If you were me what would you adjust or change?
6. Would you go with 2 comp 8's run by a seperate channel of the rear amp like the coaxials now?

As of now the Kickers sound great(although I dont have anything to compare it to). I am pleased with the outcome of stage 1. Stage 2 is the subwoofer. Stage 3 is the new H/U.

You all have been helpful in my decision and installation of my new stereo, keep up the good work.

Brandon

[JnEsPappa]

I would use the factory power for the rear coaxials, the front two amp channels for the comps, and the rear amp channel bridged to the sub. (BTW, that's how my stereo is set up, so I can fade out the rears when I'm in the truck, and fade them in when my wife is with me).

If the sub still doesn't sound like you want it to, then dynamat the compartment. I wouldn't swap it out for two 8's.

[Brandon1]

Originally Posted by JnEsPappa

I would use the factory power for the rear coaxials, the front two amp channels for the comps, and the rear amp channel bridged to the sub. (BTW, that's how my stereo is set up, so I can fade out the rears when I'm in the truck, and fade them in when my wife is with me).

If the sub still doesn't sound like you want it to, then dynamat the compartment. I wouldn't swap it out for two 8's.

Thanks, that might be what I do on the sub idea. I think the kicker comp is a good choice, dont you?

[JnEsPappa]

That sub should do you just fine. BTW, a free air sub needs to have the front waves and back waves separated (aka, infinite baffle). Think of it this way, you could mount it in the rear window on a baffle board and you'd hear bass inside the truck. To mount it in a car you would have to seal the trunk from the rest of the car with one side of the sub "in" the cab and the other side "in" the trunk. In our trucks you will need to seal the compartment, not for the same reasons as a typical sub, but only to isolate the front and rear waves.

I hope that makes sense. Keep us posted!
-Mark

[Brandon1]

Originally Posted by JnEsPappa

That sub should do you just fine. BTW, a free air sub needs to have the front waves and back waves separated (aka, infinite baffle). Think of it this way, you could mount it in the rear window on a baffle board and you'd hear bass inside the truck. To mount it in a car you would have to seal the trunk from the rest of the car with one side of the sub "in" the cab and the other side "in" the trunk. In our trucks you will need to seal the compartment, not for the same reasons as a typical sub, but only to isolate the front and rear waves.

I hope that makes sense. Keep us posted!
-Mark

Makes perfect sence, Thanks