Has anybody used the products Weatherguard, Ice Guard, or Storm Guard for sound deadening? The products can be found in the roofing department of any Home Depot or Lowes. Supposedly, it works really well... but there are reports that it can leave a pretty unbearable asphalt stench. If these reports prove false, this may be a pretty good find, considering 150 sq. ft. of the material only costs around $40 (supposedly).
I've also heard that Peel-N-Seal is a roofing product. Is this true? To those of you that have used it... how's the smell?
I'm also wondering how bad the smell is... I've been using Fatmat, and after I installed it, my truck baked in the sun for a few days. The smell took about a week to go away, and I had to leave my windows cracked. It wasn't unbearable... and the week of the slight smell really didn't effect me either way...
__________________
Armada 176 AR5s Skis, Look P12 Jib Bindings, Rossignol Bandit B1 Boots, Scott Poles... in the bed of a 2000 V8 Tundra 2x4 Access Cab with:
JBA Titanium Coated Headers, Stone Mountain Racing Y-Pipe, Flowmaster 50 Exhuast, Teamwest Sway-A-Way Coilovers, Camburg Upper Control Arms, Wheeler's Add-A-Leafs, AEM Brute Force Intake, MB Quarts, US Acoustics Amp, Bazooka Tube, Lots of Dynamat, A.R.E. LSII Tonneau Cover, Sir Michaels Rollpan, Bushwacker Flares, Shaved BSM, Billet Grilles, Mickey Thompson Classic Locks, 305/70/16 Pro-Comp X-Terrains, Lots of little things here and there. Future Projects: Color-Coded White Rear Bumper and Tailgate handle, Revalve SAWs, Deaver 11 Leaf Packs, Bilstein 5100 Rear Shocks.
All this info repeated here!
Has anybody used the products Weatherguard, Ice Guard, or Storm Guard for sound deadening? The products can be found in the roofing department of any Home Depot or Lowes. Supposedly, it works really well... but there are reports that it can leave a pretty unbearable asphalt stench. If these reports prove false, this may be a pretty good find, considering 150 sq. ft. of the material only costs around $40 (supposedly).
I've also heard that Peel-N-Seal is a roofing product. Is this true? To those of you that have used it... how's the smell?
I'm also wondering how bad the smell is... I've been using Fatmat, and after I installed it, my truck baked in the sun for a few days. The smell took about a week to go away, and I had to leave my windows cracked. It wasn't unbearable... and the week of the slight smell really didn't effect me either way...
Don't know about the others but Peen N Seal is FatMat. You can call the Peel N Seal distributior and they will tell you this. Anyhow, I have used McMaster stuff in my truck as well as Peel N Seal in my brothers truck (Agent 409). The Peel N Seal was a little easier to work with becaue it was thinner and more flexible. It was also about 110 outside when I did the Peel N Seal compared to 75 or so when I used the McMaster stuff.
My brother was able to call the Peel N Seal factory and find his local dealer. It was a roofing wholesale store in Palm Springs. He got 130 sq ft for $112 bucks. That was enough to do a double layre over his entire truck (doors, floor, rear wall) and a little bit left over. Not too much left over though.
I didn't notice too much of a smell. When it was hot there was a bit more of a smell, but it wasn't too bad. He will have to chime in about how long the smell lingered.
http://www.mfmbp.com/peelseal/ It is a roofing product. Read here for a bit more info. It is bassically like any other sound deadener. An asphalt sheet with aluminum backing on it. Some of the other deadeners have different thicknesses.
__________________
"You play the hand you're dealt. I think the game's worthwhile." -C. S. Lewis
Thanks for the info... I think I'm gonna go to Lowes today and pick up a small roll and test it out.
BTW, do you know what the product number was for the adhesive foam circles and the 1" adhesive foam shown in both your and your brother's gallery? (I'm assuming you bought them from McMaster-Carr)
__________________
Armada 176 AR5s Skis, Look P12 Jib Bindings, Rossignol Bandit B1 Boots, Scott Poles... in the bed of a 2000 V8 Tundra 2x4 Access Cab with:
JBA Titanium Coated Headers, Stone Mountain Racing Y-Pipe, Flowmaster 50 Exhuast, Teamwest Sway-A-Way Coilovers, Camburg Upper Control Arms, Wheeler's Add-A-Leafs, AEM Brute Force Intake, MB Quarts, US Acoustics Amp, Bazooka Tube, Lots of Dynamat, A.R.E. LSII Tonneau Cover, Sir Michaels Rollpan, Bushwacker Flares, Shaved BSM, Billet Grilles, Mickey Thompson Classic Locks, 305/70/16 Pro-Comp X-Terrains, Lots of little things here and there. Future Projects: Color-Coded White Rear Bumper and Tailgate handle, Revalve SAWs, Deaver 11 Leaf Packs, Bilstein 5100 Rear Shocks.
All this info repeated here!
I too parked my truck in the sun and left the windows down a bit. The smell got progressively better over the coarse of a week until I didn't notice it anymore, and it wasn't too bad to begin with.
Thanks for the info... I think I'm gonna go to Lowes today and pick up a small roll and test it out.
BTW, do you know what the product number was for the adhesive foam circles and the 1" adhesive foam shown in both your and your brother's gallery? (I'm assuming you bought them from McMaster-Carr)
I got them from tundra-gearhead. He used to work for a car stereo company that does the branded OEM stereos (Bose, JBL, etc). He said they threw those circles away all of the time. I paid for shipping and he filled a big box and gave them to me. It was enough for my truck and my brothers truck. He no longer works there though. They are closed cell foam though. He might be able to give you some info on where to track them down.
I really like them though. They are fairly thin, flexible, adhesive backed, and they can easily compress. They say "Permacel" on the back. Below that it says "A Nitto Denko Company". If you can track down more of them let me know. Even better would be if they came in a square sheet.
McMaster part #54495T46 might be a good alternative. Part #5692T49 is what my brother used. It turned out to be fairly thick (1"), but it does have a very high NRC and is cheap. It will compress and thus work behind the door pannels. It doesn't folow the countours as well as the foam circles because of its thickness. tundra-gearhead might know of some other alternatives to what your looking for.
__________________
"You play the hand you're dealt. I think the game's worthwhile." -C. S. Lewis
foambymail.com is giving me some really good ideas... but the only problem is, it's not self adhesive. I would need to find an adhesive strong enough to last through the blazing heat of the summer.
__________________
Armada 176 AR5s Skis, Look P12 Jib Bindings, Rossignol Bandit B1 Boots, Scott Poles... in the bed of a 2000 V8 Tundra 2x4 Access Cab with:
JBA Titanium Coated Headers, Stone Mountain Racing Y-Pipe, Flowmaster 50 Exhuast, Teamwest Sway-A-Way Coilovers, Camburg Upper Control Arms, Wheeler's Add-A-Leafs, AEM Brute Force Intake, MB Quarts, US Acoustics Amp, Bazooka Tube, Lots of Dynamat, A.R.E. LSII Tonneau Cover, Sir Michaels Rollpan, Bushwacker Flares, Shaved BSM, Billet Grilles, Mickey Thompson Classic Locks, 305/70/16 Pro-Comp X-Terrains, Lots of little things here and there. Future Projects: Color-Coded White Rear Bumper and Tailgate handle, Revalve SAWs, Deaver 11 Leaf Packs, Bilstein 5100 Rear Shocks.
All this info repeated here!
Well I fixed the link. There are spray can adhesives that you can buy. I think 3M makes one. The folks over at Car Sound would likely know what works best.
__________________
"You play the hand you're dealt. I think the game's worthwhile." -C. S. Lewis
Well here's the plan... if anybody cares... and I'll get back to you as to whether it works or not.
I bought 50 square feet of Peal&Seal from a local roofing store ($45... good deal). With this, I'm going to put another layer over all the doors and on the headliner... and possibly try to do the dash/firewall (I might need to buy a little more). Then, I'm going to buy product #5692T49 from McMaster.com, which is closed-cell, skinned, 1" foam for the door panels and a few other fairly exposed areas... probably about 20-25 square feet of it (about $40). Then I'm going to buy some 1" studio acoustic wedge foam from ebay (12 square feet for $10 shipped). It is open-cell, but that doesn't really matter because I'm only going to use it behind the rear bench seat, and possibly a few other places that would never come into contact with water. All of this stuff (plus the 100 square feet of fatmat that already covers the doors, backwall, and floor) will give me a nice, quiet, rattle-free cab... or so I hope.
__________________
Armada 176 AR5s Skis, Look P12 Jib Bindings, Rossignol Bandit B1 Boots, Scott Poles... in the bed of a 2000 V8 Tundra 2x4 Access Cab with:
JBA Titanium Coated Headers, Stone Mountain Racing Y-Pipe, Flowmaster 50 Exhuast, Teamwest Sway-A-Way Coilovers, Camburg Upper Control Arms, Wheeler's Add-A-Leafs, AEM Brute Force Intake, MB Quarts, US Acoustics Amp, Bazooka Tube, Lots of Dynamat, A.R.E. LSII Tonneau Cover, Sir Michaels Rollpan, Bushwacker Flares, Shaved BSM, Billet Grilles, Mickey Thompson Classic Locks, 305/70/16 Pro-Comp X-Terrains, Lots of little things here and there. Future Projects: Color-Coded White Rear Bumper and Tailgate handle, Revalve SAWs, Deaver 11 Leaf Packs, Bilstein 5100 Rear Shocks.
All this info repeated here!
Ok... so new plan... well... it's pretty much the same. You don't really have to read unless you're really interested in my adventures of Sound-Proofing. This is turning out to be a really big project.
Today I laid down about 25 extra Peel&Seal over the exhisting Fatmat on the driver's side door and access door. I'm going to do the same to the passanger's side door and access door tomorrow. There's about 4 layers on the metal and 1-2 on the plastic panels!! I lined the inside of the door, behind the speakers, with Peel&Seal and covered that with two layers of 1" under-carpet foam (closed-cell ofcourse ). I just ordered about 40 square feet of 1/8" Super Soundproofing Mat (Foam) with PSA (Pressure Sensitive Adhesive) Backing from SoundProofing.org. This should be enough to lay down one layer on all the plastic door panels and here and there on the metal part of the doors. Also, 1/8" thick should definetly be thin enough to add just about anywhere without having the worry about panels popping off. On the parts that I would like to have thick, I don't need to double layer, instead, I can lay a piece of under-carpet foam down and cover it with the Soundproofing Mat. I'm expecting to have enough left over to slap on a few more acoustically vunerable parts of the truck. I'm still planning on getting some 1" studio acoustic wedge foam from ebay (12 square feet for $10 shipped) for the backwall, but that's been put on hold until I get the doors all finished up. Seems as though I may need some more Peel&Seal... considering a 9" roll (25 square feet) only covers two doors. I still need to do the headliner... then I MAY try to do the firewell and the dash... but I'm still kinda hoping Shelbix2020 will do it first and tell me if he F'ed anything up.
__________________
Armada 176 AR5s Skis, Look P12 Jib Bindings, Rossignol Bandit B1 Boots, Scott Poles... in the bed of a 2000 V8 Tundra 2x4 Access Cab with:
JBA Titanium Coated Headers, Stone Mountain Racing Y-Pipe, Flowmaster 50 Exhuast, Teamwest Sway-A-Way Coilovers, Camburg Upper Control Arms, Wheeler's Add-A-Leafs, AEM Brute Force Intake, MB Quarts, US Acoustics Amp, Bazooka Tube, Lots of Dynamat, A.R.E. LSII Tonneau Cover, Sir Michaels Rollpan, Bushwacker Flares, Shaved BSM, Billet Grilles, Mickey Thompson Classic Locks, 305/70/16 Pro-Comp X-Terrains, Lots of little things here and there. Future Projects: Color-Coded White Rear Bumper and Tailgate handle, Revalve SAWs, Deaver 11 Leaf Packs, Bilstein 5100 Rear Shocks.
All this info repeated here!
Weatherguard, Ice Guard, Storm Guard (roofing stuff) - for Sound Deadening?
Linear Mode
