We're thinking of getting a Sienna, but most likely stick with the LE model. Unfortunately it only has power on the rear passenger.
Anyone know if I can buy the parts from Toyota and convert the driver's rear door to open/close under power as with the XLE models?
It wouldn't be cost effective. Not only would you have to update the mechanicals of the door, you've got to install overhead console buttons and buy new key remotes.
Go with a XLE instead. The prices vary, so look for an XLE on the lower end of the price scale.
I agree w/ you Bear. My wife and I bought the LE a few months ago and the full 3 power doors is the only thing I wish we had. Granted that the passenger side is power, I do wish the drivers side and rear hatch was power.
The do-it-yourself upgrade is WAY too expensive to justify, but then the other downside, which we found, was that we wanted some of the XLE features but not all of them, thus we would end up paying like 5k for a package we didn't need (like wood grain dash etc.) just for the power doors. We also needed the 8 passenger which the XLE did not come in.
We took ours and had leather put in aftermarket from Classic Soft Trim and now I just wish we had the all 3 power doors.
Bottom like...figure out what you really want/need and go from there. XLE is a great version and so is a stacked LE.
Good Luck.
Well we ended up getting a 2005 blue mirage metallic with grey interor. We opted for the LE since the main important issue was the curtain air bags. The power driver's and rear were secondary issues. Basically we got the LE with the BJ package.
Dianne and her staff at Carson Toyota took care of us. They had everything lined up. I swear we only spent 5-7 minutes with teh "finance guy" and that was probably because it was a dot matrix printer!
None the less we're happy with the van. We too got the 8 passenger configuration and i've set the middle seat in the forward position for the car seat. Now i just wanna change out the light bulbs. Both the wife and I are so used to the blues with xenon lights that the oem are WAY too yellow.
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Don't regret not having the power doors and gate. They move way to slowly. I'd rather have the old manual type and go ahead and open or close the door and be on my way.
Re: Sienna Power Doors, ECU chip, new one from scratch?
Hello all, new to this forum and can't figure out how to post a new thread, so I will ask my question here. Does anyone know what chip the power door ecu on a 99 sienna is based. My door has acted up since day one, opens fine, but will not close often. I have observed that if the power door is facing the sun (hot) it is more likely to act up. It just clicks instead of closing. I have read where toyota blames the not closing on the ECU, I find this unlikely, unless it is a bad ground on the ECU, which is easily fixed if I knew where the ground was located. If indeed, it is the ECU, and toyota wants a $1000 bucks for a new one, that is absurd. Can anyone tell me what chip or chip set the ECU uses? I would like to explore making the ECU from scratch. Most of these electronic chips can be purchased for under one dollar.
Re: Sienna Power Doors, ECU chip, new one from scratch?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrgcalls
Hello all, new to this forum and can't figure out how to post a new thread, so I will ask my question here. Does anyone know what chip the power door ecu on a 99 sienna is based. My door has acted up since day one, opens fine, but will not close often. I have observed that if the power door is facing the sun (hot) it is more likely to act up. It just clicks instead of closing. I have read where toyota blames the not closing on the ECU, I find this unlikely, unless it is a bad ground on the ECU, which is easily fixed if I knew where the ground was located. If indeed, it is the ECU, and toyota wants a $1000 bucks for a new one, that is absurd. Can anyone tell me what chip or chip set the ECU uses? I would like to explore making the ECU from scratch. Most of these electronic chips can be purchased for under one dollar.
Thanks for the help.
The most common problem is the slide door junction connector. It is found on the front side of the slde door. It has 7 pins. 3 pins stick out farther then the other 4. This usually breaks which then sends false or no signal to the slide door ecu.
If this connector is ok, then the problem is usually the slide door ecu, located in the passenger rear behind the rear quarter tim panel inside the vehicle.
It is a sealed unit and will break if you try to get into it.
The OPTICAL sensor is what usually goes haywire not the ground circuit.
The clutch circuit also tends to fail too.
Its the same junk set up GM used on there slide doors.
HMMMM wonder why there are so many problems with it.
P.S. That slide door ECU is under $300
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