Hey all -- I've read quite a few posts, but would like some additional info. I'd like to put a XM system in my 2000 Toyota Tundra. I'm thinking about the Delphi Roady2 kit, as opposed to a full-blown professional install and new head unit. I have the factory 6-CD changer in there, now, and it seems to work fine.
Specific questions are:
1) How well does the FM modulation work? Is it as clear, with as much fidelity as any strong FM station?
2) I've seen a couple posts talking about running an antenna through the 3rd brake light. But...how? Does anyone have any detailed pictures they could point me too? Does the headliner snap out? Do I need some kind of fish? How does the other end of the wire get from the headliner to the unit, in a neat fashion?
Hey all -- I've read quite a few posts, but would like some additional info. I'd like to put a XM system in my 2000 Toyota Tundra. I'm thinking about the Delphi Roady2 kit, as opposed to a full-blown professional install and new head unit. I have the factory 6-CD changer in there, now, and it seems to work fine.
I have the Roady1 and it works great. I would highly recommend the Roady2.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve King
Specific questions are:
1) How well does the FM modulation work? Is it as clear, with as much fidelity as any strong FM station?
I used to use an external FM modulator with mine. (The Roady2 has an internal FM modulator if I'm not mistaken.) The FM modulator works OK as long as you stay in one general area and there are no other FM broadcasts around to interfere with your reception. But when you travel you may go through other towns and cities that have an FM station broadcasting on a frequency at or near the one you are using. This messes up your reception and you'll have to change frequencies on your modulator and your FM radio. A real pain.
You've probably seen the posts about the Blitzsafe and P.I.E. adapters. These are adapters that plug between a port on the back of your factory head unit and the XM audio output, thereby hardwiring the XM directly to your head unit and eliminating the need for an FM modulator. You then switch between CD and XM by pressing the CD button on the head unit. I bought my P.I.E. adapter from logjamelectronics.com for about $75 shipped. Well worth the investment. And the quality of the sound is better than with the FM Modulator.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve King
2) I've seen a couple posts talking about running an antenna through the 3rd brake light. But...how? Does anyone have any detailed pictures they could point me too? Does the headliner snap out? Do I need some kind of fish? How does the other end of the wire get from the headliner to the unit, in a neat fashion?
Many thanks
Don't know about going through the 3rd brake light, but I mounted my Roady on the flat area at the bottom of the dash just south-east of the steering column. Then I ran the antenna wire under the steering column, behind the driver's side kick panel, under the front and rear threshold panels, up behind the back seat and out the sliding rear window on to the roof. I have a shell on the back of my Tundra so you really can't see the wire. It's a magnet mount antenna.
Thx, Cyberbilly --
I'm starting to understand, now, what's involved, and it doesn't seem impossible. Good point on having FM stations in other areas interfere -- hadn't thought about this.
One other question for you, or whomever. I don't see, in several pictures, the power actually plugged into the cigarette light socket. Are y'all splicing into this behind the dash?
One other question for you, or whomever. I don't see, in several pictures, the power actually plugged into the cigarette light socket. Are y'all splicing into this behind the dash?
Well, here's what I did. I was going to hardwire the power source straight to the back of the power outlets on the lower dash fascia, but then I noticed that the Roady ran on +6v and the power outlets were, of course, 12v. The Roady power cord must have a voltage reducer built into the plug. So what I ended up doing was buying a generic cigarette lighter socket from Radio Shack, tapping it into the back of the power outlets, plugging the Roady power cord into the R.S. socket, then hiding the whole thing behind the power outlet fascia panel. No wires, no muss, no fuss.
OK. Took a good look at my truck just now, now that I'm out of work. I think I about have the general idea.
For the antenna, I think I'm just going to come out the rear sliding window, rather than mess with the headliner/brake light. Will the window still close? I'm assuming the sliding window track is flexible enough to allow the cable?
Below the cigarette lighter/ashtray is a plastic cover that appears to be held in with two small plastic clip/pin things. Can I just pry those out with a flat-head screwdiver? Seems like I have to remove that to have any working space to wire another 12V female socket, and hide it. Or, is there some kind of trick to removing those clips?
Thx, man -- this has been very helpful. I'm also going to get a PIE-type adapter while I'm at it.
I currently have the antenna routed out the 3rd brake light...works well. Wasn't hard to route, all you need to do is remove the trim pieces on the passenger side along the roof, and pop out the third light. Hard part is snaking the line past the light, but running it along the liner was fairly easy.
I used to have it on the dash, but I decided to see if I would get better reception with it on the roof (the recommended location) and the reception IS better for me with the antenna on the roof.
__________________
Genthar
Rhino Lining, Waag one piece grille guard and wheel to wheel nerf bars, 3M Xpel on headlights, front corner lights, and foglights, Valentine One radar detector, XM Satellite radio, Navigon 7100 GPS, Lightforce 240 Blitz aux lights, Aux. reverse lights.
AEM Brute force intake, courtesy of AEM Power and TundraSolutions.com
Teamwest Coilovers, Camburg Upper A arms, Daystar Steering Rack Bushings, Total Chaos Diff Drop spacer, JBA Headers, Y-Pipe, and EVOL exhaust.
Steve -- I just Purchased the Roady2 as well and am having great luck with it. The FM Modulator works fairly well, but I went ahead and ordered the direct cable from myradiostore.com. I live in a metropolitan area and sometimes I get a little static. I'll let you know how the install goes.
Well, here's what I did. I was going to hardwire the power source straight to the back of the power outlets on the lower dash fascia, but then I noticed that the Roady ran on +6v and the power outlets were, of course, 12v. The Roady power cord must have a voltage reducer built into the plug. So what I ended up doing was buying a generic cigarette lighter socket from Radio Shack, tapping it into the back of the power outlets, plugging the Roady power cord into the R.S. socket, then hiding the whole thing behind the power outlet fascia panel. No wires, no muss, no fuss.
Cyberbilly---Was your reason for installing a separate socket simply to be able to hide the plug rather then plug it into one of the 2 power outlets in front? Larry
Cyberbilly---Was your reason for installing a separate socket simply to be able to hide the plug rather then plug it into one of the 2 power outlets in front? Larry
Yes. Just for a cleaner look. Since it was a permanent installation I didn't want wires hanging all over the place. That's all.
Below the cigarette lighter/ashtray is a plastic cover that appears to be held in with two small plastic clip/pin things. Can I just pry those out with a flat-head screwdiver? Seems like I have to remove that to have any working space to wire another 12V female socket, and hide it. Or, is there some kind of trick to removing those clips?
DO NOT PRY THEM OUT! You will break them. You will notice that there is a center pin to these clips. (I call them plastic pop rivets. There is a recent discussion on these in the Interior forum). If you push in on the center pin, it will release the rivet and it can easily be removed. Or you can reach around behind it, and push the center pin out, then remove the rivet.
In other words, when the center pin is flush with the rivet head, it's locked. If the center pin is pushed in or pushed out, it's unlocked.
I learned the hard way, and had to buy new ones. ($1.45 each at the dealer)
Thx, CyberBilly -- I thought there was a trick to those pop rivets.
Picked up the Roady2 last night, and wired the antenna. It was easy enough to run it out the sliding rear window, behind the rear seats, and under the the trim at the bottom of the door frame, once I unscrewed it.
Maybe I'll do the 3rd brake light trick, but I really hate like hell to mess with the headliner, even if it's as easy as people claim.
Ordered the PIE adapter, and once that comes, I'll work on the final install, including your trick with another 12V female socket. I'm also debating on where to locate the display -- in the ashtray? Or on a bracket behind the bezel? Thx to you -- and the others -- for the help!
I'm also debating on where to locate the display -- in the ashtray? Or on a bracket behind the bezel? Thx to you -- and the others -- for the help!
Like I said in an earlier post, I mounted my Roady on that flat area at the bottom of the dash just below and to the right of the steering column. It's kind of hard to see when you are driving, but it is hard for potential thieves to see it from the outside too.
As for the P.I.E. adapter, you'll also need a stereo patch cable with male RCA plugs on one end and an 1/8-inch stereo plug on the other. About $6 at Radio Shack.
I currently have the antenna routed out the 3rd brake light...works well. Wasn't hard to route, all you need to do is remove the trim pieces on the passenger side along the roof, and pop out the third light. Hard part is snaking the line past the light, but running it along the liner was fairly easy.
Genthar:
How did you manage to do that and ensure there are no water leaks around the 3rd brake light rubber moulding?
How did you manage to do that and ensure there are no water leaks around the 3rd brake light rubber moulding?
Seems to be sealed up on it's own with the factory gasket which is quite flexible. The cable for my antenna is also flat, so that makes it easier. If it starts to leak, I imagine a bead of silicone around the light housing will seal it quite nicely.
__________________
Genthar
Rhino Lining, Waag one piece grille guard and wheel to wheel nerf bars, 3M Xpel on headlights, front corner lights, and foglights, Valentine One radar detector, XM Satellite radio, Navigon 7100 GPS, Lightforce 240 Blitz aux lights, Aux. reverse lights.
AEM Brute force intake, courtesy of AEM Power and TundraSolutions.com
Teamwest Coilovers, Camburg Upper A arms, Daystar Steering Rack Bushings, Total Chaos Diff Drop spacer, JBA Headers, Y-Pipe, and EVOL exhaust.
I installed my Roady about 2 months ago using both Cyberbilly and Genthar's advice in other threads. I went through the third brake light. It is sealed with a heavy duty tarry, gooey gasket that readily reseals. Although I did put a small amount of silicone just aroud the wire. Routing through the headliner is not hard if you take your time.
For mounting, I was going to follow the example of someone here at TS who posted pictures of mounting the Roady via a sheet metal bracket. He took the center bezel off and mounted it at the "8 O'clock postion. THere are pics somewhere. WHat I did was make bracket from a metal lumber tie. I bent it so that mounts to the upper aspect of the ashtray (take the ashtray out and there 2 screws under the top) then snakes up the dash and firmly holds it front of the center bezel. I have taken pics but just didn't post them yet.
I will do the accessory cig lighter plug and hide the power cord as described. Again I just need to get around to it.
Scott
__________________ 2004 Sequoia Limited - black / leather / sunroof / signal mirror / skid plate / tow package / running boards / rear spoiler /6 CD changer / DVD pre-wire
Mods - none
2004 Tundra Access Cab SR5 2WD - phantom gray / charcoal leather / night vision mirror / captains chairs / RS3200+ security / tow package / LSD / 17" wheels / stainless running boards
Mods - XM radio custom install / map light mod / Line-X / bed extender / arm rest mod / TRD 4x4 coilover leveling....