In-cab fuse buss...

[hiro24601]

It doesn't bother me to add a fuse buss in the engine compartment.

However, I am sick of pulling wires through the firewall.

Is there a convenient place to mount an additional fuse buss within the cab of the vehicle? For certain lighting requirements (under-cab, aux-reverse, camper) an additional in-cab fuse buss would be ideal!

If so, is there a way to protect the wire leading to the fuse buss? Another fuse, fusible link etc...

In my limited experience with 12v DC wiring, I've learned to PROTECT YOUSELF! In my first vehicle (way back in high-school I wired a camper light directly to the battery. I ran the wire along a stock wiring harness. When it shorted out it burnt through entire harness. I spent days diagnosing and fixing the problems.

I would imagine that the 8-guage wire I must run to the in-cab fuse buss would mess up more than a few things if it shorted out, so how do I prevent that?

You know how it goes: you add one electronic component, read a thread on T/S, add another electronic component, then another... When you have fuse busses near by, these mods become simpler.

By the way, anybody know where to find a fuse buss that uses the same mini-blades as the Tundra? The fuse buss I found at PepBoys uses "normal" blade fuses. I really don't wanna cart around two different types of fuses.

[JnEsPappa]

You might consider an amplifier power wire kit. They come with a nice fuse which you mount within 18 inches of the battery for your safety as you mentioned.

Then you can route it into the cab through the large rubber grommet on the passenger side. That puts it right near the passenger side kick panel where you should be able to mount the type of buss you mentioned.

[hiro24601]

You hit the nail on the head! Mikey sent me a PM that helped iron out a lot the wrinkles in my logic.

Do I really need to run 4-ga wire though? I found kits at Circuit City, Best Buy, AutoZone and Checker. Everything at Circuit City and Best Buy either came in kits with too much stuff or too little, and ALL of it was WAY overpriced. I found one kit at Checker with 6-ga wire, 50-amp in-line fuse and a bunch of other unusable stuff for about $30.00.

I do NOT want an in-line fuse! An eccentricity I guess... Things vibrate in a vehicle and need to be secured in my opinion. Besides, it looks neater.

I'm not interested in the "BOOM!" I appreciate it in other vehicles but it's not for me... I rarely sell/purchase a vehicle. For that reason I'm always getting bright ideas and adding some sort of electrical component to keep ME (some sales clerk tried selling me some super duper amplifier power kit with resale in mind) interested in my vehicle. Lights are relatively cheap, functional and kinda fun to install.

The prices on the amplifier power kits are OUTRAGEOUS! I don't care if it is red, yellow, pretty or ugly. I just don't wanna pull wires through the firewall EVERYTIME I add a light/mod.

At the moment, I have a fuse buss with room for 6 blade fuses. And I'm certain I'll add:

Two aux-reverse lights at 55W each.
Two under cab lights at 55W each.
Camper light (wattage unknown, might go LED)
Camper Reverse light (LED)

At any time in the future, I might add:

Under hood lights (wattage unknown)
Driving lights at 55W each.
Spotlight I assume 55W also...
Any sort of in-cab lighting... There is some neat LED stuff out there.
I may need a tow assist one of these days, WHO KNOWS!

I've also looked at power inverters but that is a different story. I would definitely need 2ga, a deep cycle battery (if not two wired parallel) and a bunch of other stuff (maybe and a new alternator) for that. Not in the picture at the time.

C$@p, I just did the math and answered my own question. I'll just pull the 4ga and pay the price. Sorry for the rhetoric...

One more question:

I found a sweet spot under the dash for my current fuse block. What if I decide to extent 4-ga wire, remove my jack and install more stuff? Is it as easy as soldering the wire or should I leave it coiled up somewhere?

[mikey]

Two things to suggest:
1. DO NOT SKIP THE INLINE FUSE, PLEASE! A run from the battery to the inside of your cabin is a long run. If the insulation on your 4Ga cable should be rubbed and you ground out the cable it WILL catch fire. That inline fuse is meant to protect you and your vehicle. Please do not try to bypass it. Find a spot for the fuse, lock it down, and try to live with the idea that you won't be the guy on the side of the road watching his truck burn.
2. Soldering 4Ga wire is not possible without a very large soldering iron or a torch. You can crimp connectors but you will need to purchase a crimper. Best thing is to pull the old cable and run a new cable from your inline fuse.

I think you will find that running lights as you indicate will require a lot of wiring and relays - much more than is immediately apparent. You will need to find a way to do this conveniently and safely.

[hiro24601]

I'd NEVER skip the fuse under the hood. I just don't like "in-line" fuses. You know those things that have a cover and dangle on the wire. I'd prefer to mount something solidly to the engine compartment. (Maybe I don't know my terminology...)

That said what type of fuse?

ANL
SEA
MAXI
T-Base
Those glass thingies... Can't recall their name.

Remember I'll be running lights for the most part. This means it’s doubtful (put possible) that I’d be running all at the same time. I don't understand the pros and cons of "slow blow" or any other fuse. I know you should use T-base for inverters.

I've got plenty of relays switches and LED indicators (resistors included) so I know what's on and what's not. I'm prepared for the project(s). This is (for the most part) fun for me. I'm lacking space, but if I need to modify my center console to make more space, I'll do it.

Do these electrical components create much heat? If I build a custom console, do I want to leave a vent maybe a fan?

Where do I find an underhood switch?

You're right though best to run new wire. I (the company) DOES have a crimper and multiple torches but it makes more sense to just pull new stuff. I guess that's what I do in my home to avoid j-boxes.

I'm taking photos guys. I appreciate y'all reading my threads. I know I run on. I want to be a productive member. When I have a solid solution and completed at least one of my projects, I'll make it available for all.

[mikey]

My bad. Thought you were talking about the main fuse. Talking about fuses, have you seen this website: http://www.bcae1.com/. This is an excellent site if you haven't seen it.

[JnEsPappa]

Originally Posted by hiro24601

C$@p, I just did the math and answered my own question. I'll just pull the 4ga and pay the price. Sorry for the rhetoric...

LOL. That's what I love about discussion groups. Sometimes it just helps to put your own thoughts in writing.

Originally Posted by mikey

Thought you were talking about the main fuse.

Me too.