I finally got around to installing my comps up front. They sound pretty good, but running them off the stock head unit just aint gonna cut it. I went down to the local Best Buy (because I have a $100 gift card that I'm trying to unload) and inquired about an amp and the installation. The quoted me $240!!! They included **$80** for an amp kit! When I told them I would bring my own amp kit, they said fine, but that's still $170. Is this typical??
Anyway, it looks like I'll be tackling an amp installation. This will be my first, so I'm sure it will be an adventure. I'm planning on getting an amp with speaker level inputs just to make it a little more simple (like the Kicker KX350.4 -- opinions welcome). I'm also planning on getting a fifth of Makers Mark and a pack of Marlboros to turn to for advice during the installation. So I have a few questions:
1) I'm planning on installing it under the passenger seat. I know I'll have to cut the carpet to run wiring. Will I need to remove the seats in order to do all of this? I'd rather not.
2) I've read where a lot of people are having trouble with their amp turn-on lead. Is this a real PITA?
3) Any comments on the amp I'm looking at? I'm powering two Pioneer TS-C1653 comps up front, and have a set of CDT CL-6 midbass coming in anyday for the rear...
I'll be tackling my install in the next couple weeks but it'll be a bit more involved
first off you really don't need to amp the CL-6x in the rear. I had those same speakers in the rear of my jeep with the CDT CL61 comps in the front, those each getting 100w RMS and it rocked. I'd just run the rears off the HU and get a nice 2 channel for the fronts.
1) I'm planning on installing it under the passenger seat. I know I'll have to cut the carpet to run wiring. Will I need to remove the seats in order to do all of this? I'd rather not.
Just unbolt the seat and rock it backwards and you should have enough room to work. (my DC has a little more)
You shouldn't have to cut the carpet for your wires. If you are careful not to crush them, you can use the existing holes for the seat mounts. See the pics in my gallery where I did something similar.
The quoted me $240!!! They included **$80** for an amp kit! When I told them I would bring my own amp kit, they said fine, but that's still $170. Is this typical??
Best Buy wants a lot to do installs. They wanted more then I paid for my deck to install it even though they said free install when purchasing. I had Circuit city do it for $50 including kits and wiring. I did my own amp install.
__________________ '05 Tundra DC TRD 2 WHL: The TOW truck, Spectra Mica Blue, with Kenwood H/U, Kenwood Amp and crossover. Infinity 6010cs, 10" Rockford SUB, 6 disc CD Changer mounted in Center console, SWI-X to retain steering wheel controls, 7" TV with DVD. Tinted Windows, Three chamber Flowmaster, Painted front chrome strip
1994 Toy: The TOY Standard cab, Long travel front pulling13" w/Double fox w/Res, Deaver rear at 18" w/Single 2.5 18" fox w/Res., full glass, Bumper to Bumper cage, Gusseted frame, PRP seats, Crow harnesses, Custom steering(All Heims & Chromoly), Grant steering wheel, Smoothest ride around. OH by the way only 70,000 miles.
1) I'm planning on installing it under the passenger seat. I know I'll have to cut the carpet to run wiring. Will I need to remove the seats in order to do all of this? I'd rather not.
2) I've read where a lot of people are having trouble with their amp turn-on lead. Is this a real PITA?
3) Any comments on the amp I'm looking at? I'm powering two Pioneer TS-C1653 comps up front, and have a set of CDT CL-6 midbass coming in anyday for the rear...
Thanks!
1) You can make slits in the carpet to feed the wires through. When you pull the wires out the slits practically disappear. I would recommend you do remove the seats. Takes 3 minutes and saves lots of contoursionist moves and general PITB wire feeding.
2) You can easily tap into the ACC fuse using a "fuse tap" from Radio Shack. Insert the fuse tap next to the fuse, utilize a crimp connector to attach the turn on wire and run it over to the amp.
3) Nice amp, IMO.
Need info...
Im in process of installing an ed nine.4 with stock h/u and wanted to know what everyone here is using for the remote turn on.
From the garage it suggest tapping into the 12v radio turn on but how about using the pink wire off the 20 pin connector (factory amp turn on). Since I already started cutting into this (20 pin) connnector I would like evrything to splice from here and not cut into any other wire harnesses.
Thanks
Need info...
Im in process of installing an ed nine.4 with stock h/u and wanted to know what everyone here is using for the remote turn on.
From the garage it suggest tapping into the 12v radio turn on but how about using the pink wire off the 20 pin connector (factory amp turn on). Since I already started cutting into this (20 pin) connnector I would like evrything to splice from here and not cut into any other wire harnesses.
Thanks
That should work just fine as long as the pink is the +12v remote wire. I don't have the wiring diagram in front of me to verify.
__________________ 2006 Tacoma Double Cab, Indigo Ink Pearl, TRD Sport, 4WD, V6, 6 Speed Mods to date: Extang Full-Tilt Tonneau, Pioneer DEH-P7800MP, Elemental Designs Nine.4, Elemental Designs Nine.2x, Elemental Designs 11Kv.2, CDT EF-61's, Sirius Starmate Replay, Weathertech Floor Liners, EGR In-Channel Vent Visors, Aires Black Oval Step Bars, Fog Light Mod, Bed Storage Lock Mod, CoverKing Neoprene Seat Covers, DRL Mod, Map Light Mod Future Mods: Bed lights, some kind of exhaust....maybe
DIY Amp Installation
When I told them I would bring my own amp kit, they said fine, but that's still $170. 
Is this typical??
'05 Tundra DC TRD 2 WHL: The TOW truck, Spectra Mica Blue, with Kenwood H/U, Kenwood Amp and crossover. Infinity 6010cs, 10" Rockford SUB, 6 disc CD Changer mounted in Center console, SWI-X to retain steering wheel controls, 7" TV with DVD. Tinted Windows, Three chamber Flowmaster, Painted front chrome strip 
1994 Toy: 
Linear Mode
