Q: Tundra with JBL - Crossover Speaker Wiring

[morgaa01]

Hello fellow Tundra owners,

I would appreciate if someone could help me.

I have a 06 Tundra DC and I am trying to replace the front speakers with Polk 6750s. I am a novice and am not sure of how to wire the Polk crossover.

The Polk crossover has +/- connectors for:

Input (+/-)
Wolf/Mid(+/-)
Tweeter(+/-)

The wiring from JBL Amp is:

Blue (-) Tweeter
Green (+) Tweeter
Blue/White (-) Wolf/Mid
Black/Yellow (+) Wolf/Mid

I have tried:

Connecting both Green/BlackYellow + wires to the input + connector on the crossover and the both negatives to the - connector on the crossover. I just run the +/- wires on the other crossover connectors to the components themselves. The tweeter has very bad static in this config.

If I only connect the tweeter wires from the amp to the crossover inputs - the tweeter seems ok.

If I only connect the wolf/mid wires from the amp to the crossover inputs - the wolf/mid seems ok.

I can never get them to work properly together.

It seems that I must be doing something wrong.

What should the correct wiring be?

Can someone help me or point me in the right direction?

Thanks,
Al

[buckfever4life]

I have went throught the same thing you have on my 2004 Double Cab Tundra. Use this as a reference: below is the factory wire colors for your Reference (This is the diagram for a 2004 Toyota Tundra Double Cab with the JBL. I am not for sure if the 2006 wire colors are the same.

These wire colors below are the same at the amp as they are at the speaker terminals, NOTE: that certain rear speaker wires change color from whats at the amp.

Left Front Tweet (Positive) - Pink wire
Left Front Tweet (Negative) - Violet

Right Front Tweet (positive) - Light green
Right Front Tweet (Negative) - Blue

Left Front Door mid/woofer (positive) - Green
Left Front Door Mid/Woofer (Negative) - Blue/white

Right Front Door Mid/Woofer (Positive) - Black/Yellow
Right Front Door Mid/Woofer (neagtive) - White/Blue


Take the positive wire from the Polk woofer and place it in the positive connector (woofer) on the crossover, place the positive wire from the polk tweeter into the positive (tweet) on the crossover. Do same for the negative wires. Then run your Green wire (positive) for the Left side of the truck into the (+) input of the crossover. Put the Blue/White wire into the (-) input of the crossover. This side is completed.....Next step:
For the Right hand side, hook the polk woofer and tweeter positive and negative up to the corresponding location on the crossover like you done on the other door. Place the Black/yellow wire into the (+) input of the crossover and the White/Blue wire into the (-) negative input on the crossover. At this point the front doors are done. If you are going to replace the rear door speaker, the wire color changes from the whats at the amp to whats into the door speaker. Let me know, I have those corresponding wires as well. Dont worry about the factory tweeter wiring, just disregard it, all you are concerned with is the main (+) and (-) that are feeding the mid/woofer of each door and those are highlighted in BOLD lettering above.

NOTE: You might want to consider an aftermarket amp to power your Polks. I have 80 watts going to each 4 of my door speakers. I have Polk DB 6750 in the front and Polk DB675 in the rear. At first I wasnt too impressed with them, but after I had my JL Stealthbox installed and powered by a JL 250/1 and got everything tweaked out, it totally ROCKS.

Now if you were to use the factory speakers and run them through an aftermarket amp, then you would have to run the positive wire from the tweeter and the positive wire from the Mid woofer wires of each door together into one channel of the amp. Same goes for the other door. Then the rear door speakers would be in there own channel as well. Making a 4 channel set up.

Phil can help out as well, he will be in here shortly. he is the one who helped me do my complete system and answered all my questions during the installation period. Phil

[Ivanhoe76]

Is the short version of this - use the "Door mid/woofer" as inputs for your crossover? I just want to make sure I understand correctly because I am going to do the same thing next week.

[buckfever4life]

Well you can use whichever set of wires that you prefer. You have the Positive and Negative Tweeter wire and Positive and Negative Woofer wire from the front doors that goes into the factory amp, then you have the rear Positive and Negative wires that goes into the amp. So with that being said, for the rear door speakers there is only one set of wires that you can use, for the front, you can use the Tweeter or woofer wires, they are the same gauge and all tie into the amp in the rear. I used the woofer wires because it was easier for me to remember the color key. You are better off to replace the amp with an aftermarket one to run the speakers. Mounting the aftermarket amp is quite easy along the back wall in place of the factory amp. All the speaker wires can be easily accessed here. All you have to do is run a Power to the battery and a remote wire, then ground it near the back wall. It took me 30 minutes or less to mount my aftermarket amp and remove my factory amp and make all the necessary connections. I used industrial strenght velcro to mount the amp to the back wall and cut one of the storage pockets out of the back wall panel with a dremel to keep everything stock looking. If you are going to upgrade the speakers, you might as well upgrade the amp as well. I sold my JBL factory amp for $100 which will help justify buying a new amp.

Good Luck

[Ivanhoe76]

Originally Posted by buckfever4life

Well you can use whichever set of wires that you prefer. You have the Positive and Negative Tweeter wire and Positive and Negative Woofer wire from the front doors that goes into the factory amp, then you have the rear Positive and Negative wires that goes into the amp. So with that being said, for the rear door speakers there is only one set of wires that you can use, for the front, you can use the Tweeter or woofer wires, they are the same gauge and all tie into the amp in the rear. I used the woofer wires because it was easier for me to remember the color key.

I don't know what i was thinking, this probably won't apply to me. I actually bought my tundra DC with the basic radio (single slot cd player) and not the JBL because I knew I was going to replace it. It has components in the front though, and I am trying to figure out what I am going to find next week when I go to install some new speakers. I bet in my situation the wires split in the door and there is only a capacitor on the tweeters to prevent them from blowing. At least that is how it was on the crappy stock system in my old car.

Once I get a little money I am going to follow your advice and get an amp or two. I like how your amps are installed. Clean and not conspicuous.

[buckfever4life]

Thanks for the comments. I did not want to put them under the seats, so when I removed my factory JBL amp, I had the perfect place to mount my aftermarket amp and all the wiring for the speakers were right there, i just snipped them off the harness and plugged them right into the amp, ran my power and remote to the front and grounded on the back wall. The 2nd amp was supposed to go in the rear storage compartment under the rear seat, but it was easier to place it on the back wall as well, as I installed a distribution block and ground and spliced into the remote wire. Really simple installation. I might add a third amp and put a couple of 8's or another 10 in the storage compartment under the rear seat, to go along with my JL Stealthbox. I am seriously debating on tearing out the entire back seat and having a custom fiberglass enclosure to fill up the entire rear and house (4) 15's or (8) 12's and have a plasma screen on the back for when you roll the rear window down. Not sure yet, but I might go over the deep end soon. Just when I thought I was out of the BOOM BOOM stage, until I got my stealthboix, it has all came back to haunt me now...lol

[Ivanhoe76]

I guess you don't have any problems with the amps getting to hot back there. My one concern was air circulation.

[buckfever4life]

none at all, the air actually circulates well back there while i am driving, especially when the rear window is down.

[morgaa01]

Hi,

This is Al - the original poster of this thread. Thanks to Buckfever4life for the response. I wired as suggested but was still not happy with the tweeter. It just did not sound right to me.

As I said, I am novice to car audio but I do have 20 years experience with computers - so I think in inputs/outputs.

Since I am keeping the JBL Amp (only for now) - I kept coming back to the amp having separate outputs for the tweeter - thinking that these wires still need to be in play as inputs for the POLK 6750s.

So I just wired the the Woofer/Mid outputs from the amp to the Polk crossover inputs. The Woofer/Mid outs from the crossover to the Woofer/Mid component. I wired nothing to the crossover outs for the tweeter.

I then just wired the amp outs for the tweeter directly to the Polk tweeter itself.

Finally, it sounds as I would expect and significantly better the factory speakers.

When I get a new amp, I will probably need to rewire but this will work for now.

Thanks again,
Al

[TintMaster]

Thought I would pull this back up again, for another question...

I have a 2004 Tundra Double cab.

If the stock JBL amp has outputs for the tweeters, separate, than the output for the mid/woofers for the front doors, then wouldn't it blow the tweeters to wire them directly to an aftermarkets full range output? Or, is there a bass blocking capacitor to protect the tweeters, built into the tweeters themselves?

I'm just about to put togeather a system, with a pair of 10" kicker solobaric L7 subs.. (S10L7) along with 2 aftermarket amps, & an alpine deck.. (Not ready to buy the DVD touch screen yet, but will eventually) The bass amp is a 1 ohm stable 2000 watt that should move some pretty good air with those subs. Some metal molding (Hammer) will be required I'm sure.

I was going to use a 4 channel eclipse amp for the door speakers, & the big beast amp for the subs, but was wanting to be sure the tweets have protection from the full range, if connected direct to the amp.

Thanks.

[raulds1]

great info on the amp wiring since i'm going to replace my factory sound system, now one question what are the wires color for the rear door speakers.
thanks