Codes you listed are:
P0171 SYSTEM TO LEAN
P1130 AIR/FUEL SENSOR CIRCUIT RANGE/PERFORMANCE BANK 1 SENSOR 1
P1135 AIR/FUEL SENSOR HEATER CIRCUIT RESPONSE BANK 1 SENSOR 1
These seem to indicate that the O2 sensor (air/fuel sensor ) on the rear by the fire wall has failed. The sensor has two parts to it a heater to bring up the sensor to operating temperature faster, and the O2 sensor itself.
I used a LARGE (long) open ended wrench, and was able to get to the rear sensor down by the fire wall from the top. Its possible it is seized but I would try really hard with a large wrench to see if it frees up. If you can get it to free up before you keep unscrewing it - reach your hand down to the sensor and follow the wires up. They are mounted on a bracket pull the socked free pull the connector up to the top where you can grab it and unplug the sensor. Then unscrew and remove the sensor. I will post below my experience with my 2002 AVALON FYI. I actually had two bad heaters in the two engine sensors. The procedure below tells you how to check the heater circuit with an ohm meter I would do that before I tangle with the rear one removal!!! Hope this helps. Let us know how you make out please.
Fuel mixture control is combination of conditions that include O2 sensing, and temperature.
Open loop engine runs in this mode until water temp, O2 sensor heats up enough to operate (about 1800 degrees), etc. The car computer uses a table look up method to define mixture. So this is not very accurate, and you burn more gas and possibly screw up your Cat. Converter if your engine stays in this mode longer than needed. Also , if you have a thermostat stuck open so the engine heats up too slow you may get some of these or similar error codes.
Closed loop it uses all of its sensor input to accurately define the mixture, so you should be getting about 29mpg.
The O2 sensor senses O2 in exhaust, plus there is a heater in it to bring it up to temp fast so engine runs in closed loop mode quicker. Your P1135 seems to say one of you A/F O2 sensor (heater) is bad. I had TWO bad sensors open heater circuits - in my car at 106,000 miles, which is about when these start to fail. P1133 and P1135 is O2 response time - but may be caused by defective heater. Either way - the A/F O2 sensor is suspect. Below is my experience, and includes sensor location, how to test the heater circuit, etc.
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I will post here my procedure for fixing problem with my 2002 FYI to all interested. comments/suggestions????? Part numbers for other years may be different - you need to check.... GOOGLE search for your year. I used DENSO replacements (cheap on the internet) and have run the car over 8 months now without further problems.
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The error code P1155 and P1135 and resulting check engine light is due to failure of one or more A/F Sensors (Air/Fuel sensor, or sometimes called Oxygen Sensor). There are three in my 2002 Avalon. There are two parts to the sensor - a heater that heats up the sensor quickly, and the Oxygen sensing part. The error code says you have a problem with the heater. Your mileage after warm up should be normal if O2 part is working OK. If you get consistent bad mileage, I would get it fixed ASAP as an over rich mixture will shorten the life of the CAT converter.
SENSOR TYPES (at least on my 2002)
Bank2 Sensor 1 - front of engine exhaust manifold
Toyota part 89467-41040 by DENSO. OEM equiv. Denso 234-9021
Heater resistance check at 68 degrees F 0.8 to 1.4 ohms
Bank 1 Sensor 1 - rear engine exhaust manifold
Toyota part 89467-41030 by DENSO. OEM Equiv. DENSO 234-9021
Cost of these about $180 each - find via google search. Toyota price
about $230 each.
Heater resistance check - same as above
Bank 1 Sensor 2 - under car in back of Catl. Converter, Connecter under
passenger front seat.
Toyota part 89465-07040 by DENSO. OEM Equiv. DENSO 234-4061
OEM part costs about $83.
heater resistance check at 68 degrees F. 11 - 16 ohms.
You need to unplug each sensor, and test resistance reading between the two terminals in sensor plug that have the two black wires into plug. This will check if the heater in the sensor is open or shorted. Resistance readings are as shown above. You will probably find one or more that have failed. I had two out of three bad!!!! (106K miles on car)
The front sensor - easy to get to and remove. The rear one - you can fish your hands down from the top by fire wall to unscrew and disconnect. The one by the cat. Converter - remove four bolts holding passenger seat, lean it back out of your way. Pull carpet out from under the plastic on the center console, pull out as best you can, you will see the sensor connector and the wires coming through the floor board. Disconnect the connector, and push the rubber grommet out the hole - then you should be able to unscrew the sensor.
You are on your own using OEM. I did but only have one day on them. This procedure is a guide only - you are on your own. One needs to be fairly mechanical to pull this off...
Re: Where's the O2 sensor?
Linear Mode
