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BrakesDiscussions about the brake system in your vehicle and brake products.
This is a discussion thread titled "Brake Replacement and Brake Fluid", within the Brakes forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
when i drive i notice that while braking, the parking brake comes on and when i accelerate it goes away. of course i searched this in the forum and found my answer...low brake fluid. i also read that this could be related to low front disc brakes which i'm almost certain is the culprit for me. here is the question: after replacing the front disks...should the brake fluid 'adjust' itself and 'fill up' again? or do i need to add more fluid? or both? i have no idea how the brakes work as to my question which might seem obvious...please be nice...
Your assumption is right. As the pads wear the caliper pistons will move out to take up the gap. Fluid from the master cylinder reservoir with take up the room in calipers, in turn dropping the amount in the reservoir.
If you simply push in your caliper pistons to make room for the new pads and no extra fluid has been added, the amount of fluid in the reservoir should return to normal.
Now what you shouldn't do. If you have ABS it is not recommended that the fluid be push bake through the system. Fluid can also carry dirt and moving this dirt can clog up the ABS valves. This is highly unlikely to happen but is it worth taking the chance, probably not.
Since the best time to flush out old fluid is at the time of a brake job, it is best to simply open the bleeder screws and push the fluid out as the pistons are retracted. Then flush the brakes system out with fresh new fluid.
So this is your choice.
Mike
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“The significant problems we have cannot be solved at the same level of thinking with which we created them” (Albert Einstein) Moderator Brake Forum
Your assumption is right. As the pads wear the caliper pistons will move out to take up the gap. Fluid from the master cylinder reservoir with take up the room in calipers, in turn dropping the amount in the reservoir.
If you simply push in your caliper pistons to make room for the new pads and no extra fluid has been added, the amount of fluid in the reservoir should return to normal.
Now what you shouldn't do. If you have ABS it is not recommended that the fluid be push bake through the system. Fluid can also carry dirt and moving this dirt can clog up the ABS valves. This is highly unlikely to happen but is it worth taking the chance, probably not.
Since the best time to flush out old fluid is at the time of a brake job, it is best to simply open the bleeder screws and push the fluid out as the pistons are retracted. Then flush the brakes system out with fresh new fluid.
So this is your choice.
Mike
Is there a particular brand of brake fluid that is recommended for the Tundra?
All a man really needs for happiness in this world is a good woman, a faithful dog, and a big-a$$ed set of tires on his truck.
__________________________________________________
Ride: 2001 Tundra SR5, 4WD, The Lean Mean Green Machine, Lift, Front: Bilstein 5100 Adjustable Shocks w/ Total Chaos Diff Drop, Lift, Rear: 1" Wheeler's Blocks, Wheels: Chromed Factory 4Runner Rims, 17", Tires: Bridgestone Revos, 285/70R-17, Performance: Unichip, Borla Exhaust, Optima Yellow-top Battery, Flux Capacitor, Interior: Dog Hair on Back Seat, Coffee Stains on Console, Bling: TRD Grille, Westin Nerf Bars, Clear Corners & Eurotails, Debadged, Audio: Scion T1808 Head Unit, Audiovox XM Express, Shark Fin Antenna, Other: Viair 450C compressor, 2.5 Gallon air tank, 4-Trumpet air horns, Eye Candy: Hottie Wife in Passenger Seat, Security System: Two Very Large Dogs
Any dot 3 fluid is good, racing fluids are not good to use in street vehicles because many time they don't have the proper anti corrosion additives. Racing fluids concentrate on boiling points and fluid stability and not as much on anti corrosion since they know you will be replacing it several times a season.
You don't do this on your every day driver so stick to a good name brand dot 3 fluid, if you want a higher boiling point use dot 4.
Mike
__________________
“The significant problems we have cannot be solved at the same level of thinking with which we created them” (Albert Einstein) Moderator Brake Forum
Unless you have a helper to pump the pedal and even if you do, I highly recommend speedbleeders. (speedbleeder.com) ... worth every penny and you can do a complete fluid change by yourself and bleed everything in under 30 minutes.
Unless you have a helper to pump the pedal and even if you do, I highly recommend speedbleeders. (speedbleeder.com) ... worth every penny and you can do a complete fluid change by yourself and bleed everything in under 30 minutes.
I prefer my Motive Pressure bleeder. No pumping needed and with the alternate colors of ATE blu and Typ200 I work farthest to closest wheel and know the whole system is fresh.
Unless you have a helper to pump the pedal and even if you do, I highly recommend speedbleeders. (speedbleeder.com) ... worth every penny and you can do a complete fluid change by yourself and bleed everything in under 30 minutes.
I looked up the website, but they do not show one for the Tundra.
All a man really needs for happiness in this world is a good woman, a faithful dog, and a big-a$$ed set of tires on his truck.
__________________________________________________
Ride: 2001 Tundra SR5, 4WD, The Lean Mean Green Machine, Lift, Front: Bilstein 5100 Adjustable Shocks w/ Total Chaos Diff Drop, Lift, Rear: 1" Wheeler's Blocks, Wheels: Chromed Factory 4Runner Rims, 17", Tires: Bridgestone Revos, 285/70R-17, Performance: Unichip, Borla Exhaust, Optima Yellow-top Battery, Flux Capacitor, Interior: Dog Hair on Back Seat, Coffee Stains on Console, Bling: TRD Grille, Westin Nerf Bars, Clear Corners & Eurotails, Debadged, Audio: Scion T1808 Head Unit, Audiovox XM Express, Shark Fin Antenna, Other: Viair 450C compressor, 2.5 Gallon air tank, 4-Trumpet air horns, Eye Candy: Hottie Wife in Passenger Seat, Security System: Two Very Large Dogs
All a man really needs for happiness in this world is a good woman, a faithful dog, and a big-a$$ed set of tires on his truck.
__________________________________________________
Ride: 2001 Tundra SR5, 4WD, The Lean Mean Green Machine, Lift, Front: Bilstein 5100 Adjustable Shocks w/ Total Chaos Diff Drop, Lift, Rear: 1" Wheeler's Blocks, Wheels: Chromed Factory 4Runner Rims, 17", Tires: Bridgestone Revos, 285/70R-17, Performance: Unichip, Borla Exhaust, Optima Yellow-top Battery, Flux Capacitor, Interior: Dog Hair on Back Seat, Coffee Stains on Console, Bling: TRD Grille, Westin Nerf Bars, Clear Corners & Eurotails, Debadged, Audio: Scion T1808 Head Unit, Audiovox XM Express, Shark Fin Antenna, Other: Viair 450C compressor, 2.5 Gallon air tank, 4-Trumpet air horns, Eye Candy: Hottie Wife in Passenger Seat, Security System: Two Very Large Dogs
Yup, 1 per wheel and one for the proportioning valve located high up near the spare tire. Just follow the rear brake line up and you will see it where the line from the front gets T'd to each wheel on the side.
I prefer my Motive Pressure bleeder. No pumping needed and with the alternate colors of ATE blu and Typ200 I work farthest to closest wheel and know the whole system is fresh.
+1 for the Motive. It's a one man band operation.
Pedal pumping can scrape crud off the cylinder wall & force it through the system. Nothing but hydraulic force with the Motive system.
Pedal pumping can scrape crud off the cylinder wall & force it through the system. Nothing but hydraulic force with the Motive system.
You have the right idea. If pump (or foot) bleeding is not done with care it can damage master cylinder seals. What can happen is since you are pushing the seals into an area not normally traveled, corrosion on the cylinder walls can damage the seals. Very small piece of seal can be torn away and flow into the system.
Here is what to avoid when foot bleeding:
Don't pump the pedal more then two times, it's just not needed.
Avoid letting the pedal completely bottom.
Don't aggressively pump the pedal. And
Don't use excessive pressure.
When using vacuum bleeders and self bleeding bleeder screws you should foot bleed at each screw at lest once because a small pocket of air can be drawn back in when you release and or around the bleeder screw threads.
Pressure bleeders are by all means the best method going, just one word of causing. A good pressure bleeder will have a bladder that separates the air from the fluid.
If the air is in direct contact with the fluid you will still need to foot bleed as it is very easy for air bubbles to get mixed in with the fluid and pushed into the system.
Mike
__________________
“The significant problems we have cannot be solved at the same level of thinking with which we created them” (Albert Einstein) Moderator Brake Forum
Brake Replacement and Brake Fluid
Re: Brake Replacement and Brake Fluid
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