installed brakes

[calebm12]

i didnt rub the points on the drum back plate. not sure what you are talking about. I have about 71k on the truck. what type of lub...where do i apply it. i didnt take any of the rear brake assembly apart, besides removing the drum.
where would you suggest getting new calibers. also, finding a place to turn rotors here is difficult...hence the reason i bought new ones. no ones does it. not even discount auto or autozone. maybe toyota dealership? am going to guage the rotors this weekend.
also, if i remove the calibers in the front, do i need to bleed the back brakes too...or just the front?
c
c

[MEvang]

This is true not many places machine rotors any more and even if you find someone who can they likely don't know how to do it properly. If not done properly you can end up with gobs more runout then you started with.
In the old days vehicles where not very sensitive to runout problem and mechanic could get away with sloppy machining techniques. On modern vehicle this has changed and very little runout can cause big problems. So most mechanics just replace rotors now.
Then came along "on the car laths" these machines will machine rotors still mounted on the vehicle. They have the advantage of truing the rotor to the hub as it is normal mounted. Most vehicle manufactures including Toyota recommend rotor machined using this technique, so most good dealers should have this machine.
This is why I say if you need the rotors machined it must be done on the car or truck in your case.

The lube point on the backing plate is where the shoes sit against the backing plate. If you want to lube these simply lift the shoes away from the backing plate with a screw driver and place a small amount of lube at these points (usually three) with a small brush.
Mike

[calebm12]

Update time:
Hands are still greasy as i type. Took off the tires again in order to measure the trueness of the rotors. After taking the tires off, (and without removing the pads yet) i gently screwed the lug nuts back on. I noticed that the way the rotor was aligned on the pegs the lugs didnt fit perfectly in. And i thought to myself..maybe this was the problem....because i most definitly didnt tighten lugs before putting the pads in last time...meaning when i torqued the nuts, maybe they werent really aligned with the holes in the rotor. Anyhow...unscrewed the nuts. Took out the pads, then put the nuts back on, making sure to position the rotor properly on the pegs. I then screwed the nuts on. I could only tighten each to 45 lbs of torque. Best i could do. Straped on my fancy new dial indicator...and saw that the DRIVERS side rotor had .002 degrees difference as i spun it. Not bad i thought. I went to the other side...and noticed the same lug nut deal. i repeated the procedure and found that the PASSENGER rotor had rouglhy .002-.003 difference. I checked the rotor in 3 spots--bottom, middle, and top.
Taking a look at my calipers i found they are the 13E version, meaning pre TSB. The pads i got measure roughly 4 1/2 by 2 1/2. I also noticed that on the front of the caliper i got a marking on the DRIVERS side that says C110 while on the PASSENGER side i got a marking the reads G050. Humm.
And so we move on.
I do believe the rotors are ok....wouldnt you say? Could it be the lug nuts werent tighten properly...meaning the rotor was properly aligned? Also still have those torn piston boots. Am thinking i need to go and replace those as well. And if i buy new calipers do i just seperate the brake hose, removing the fluide and attach it to the new one, then flush the system?
Anythoughts on this latest update? Still got the vibration!
Caleb

[MEvang]

Since you already have caliper problems you might as well update them. You will need new attachment bolts and you can used the brake lines over but you'll need to reposition them. Check out this thread:Upgrade your early Tundra Brakes In 1 hour
You might start looking at the rear drums after this.
Mike