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BrakesDiscussions about the brake system in your vehicle and brake products.
This is a discussion thread titled "Need help replacing disc brake pads", within the Brakes forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
Ok, so my knowledge is a little out of date. I am trying to replace the disc pads in my 2001 tundra (without a manual) and I got my first look at a dual piston caliper. I removed the 4 bolts holding the 2 sides of the caliper together and started prying the 2 sides apart and brake fluid startin pouring out. Now I get it! there is a passage that feeds the outside pistons that came apart. I bolted them back together and bleed the line and it seems ok.
How do I replace the pads? Do I need to remove the mounting bolts or just the guide pins. Speaking of the guide pins, is there any special trick for removing these? I tapped them a few times but they did not want to move.
Ok, so my knowledge is a little out of date. I am trying to replace the disc pads in my 2001 tundra (without a manual) and I got my first look at a dual piston caliper. I removed the 4 bolts holding the 2 sides of the caliper together and started prying the 2 sides apart and brake fluid startin pouring out. Now I get it! there is a passage that feeds the outside pistons that came apart. I bolted them back together and bleed the line and it seems ok.
How do I replace the pads? Do I need to remove the mounting bolts or just the guide pins. Speaking of the guide pins, is there any special trick for removing these? I tapped them a few times but they did not want to move.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Whoa, Hoss! Overkill City!
You do not have to remove the caliper or the brake lines to replace pads. It's a five minute job per side, not counting jacking the truck up and removing the wheels.
All you need to do is, remove the wire clips on the forward side of the caliper, then remove the two pins holding in the pads; you may need a punch and a small hammer to tap them out from behind, or grab the heads of the pins from the outside with a pair of needlenoses and gently twist them out.
Then, take a pair of pliers (channel locks are best), grab the "handles" of a pad and the outside of the caliper, and squeeze the pad back away from the rotor. Replace the pad with the new one, then do the squeeze thing with the opposite pad, and replace it.
Reinsert the Pins, and the wire clips and you are done.
If I were you, I'd get the brakes checked by a professional just to be safe. No offense here, but if you disassembled the caliper to replace the pads, I'm not sure you really understand what you are doing, so it might be best to have it checked. Don't want you to have any bad things happen because your brakes failed.
All a man really needs for happiness in this world is a good woman, a faithful dog, and a big-a$$ed set of tires on his truck.
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Ride: 2001 Tundra SR5, 4WD, The Lean Mean Green Machine, Lift, Front: Bilstein 5100 Adjustable Shocks w/ Total Chaos Diff Drop, Lift, Rear: 1" Wheeler's Blocks, Wheels: Chromed Factory 4Runner Rims, 17", Tires: Bridgestone Revos, 285/70R-17, Performance: Unichip, Borla Exhaust, Optima Yellow-top Battery, Flux Capacitor, Interior: Dog Hair on Back Seat, Coffee Stains on Console, Bling: TRD Grille, Westin Nerf Bars, Clear Corners & Eurotails, Debadged, Audio: Factory Audio, XM Satellite Radio with P.I.E. Adapter, Shark Fin Antenna, Scion Head Unit coming soon (I hope) Other: Viair 450 compressor, 2.5 Gallon air tank, 4-Trumpet air horns, Eye Candy: Hottie Wife in Passenger Seat, Security System: Two Very Large Dogs
You do not have to remove the caliper or the brake lines to replace pads. It's a five minute job per side, not counting jacking the truck up and removing the wheels.
QUOTE]
Yep, very easy install. Toyota definitely did us right by makin this install as painless as possible. Which is a good thing as I get 15K miles (like clockwork) out of a set of pads before they bite the dust
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2003 Tundra Imperial Jade TRD offroad Performance modifications
2.5 Revtek Lift, Skidrow Automotive Skidplate
285x75x16 Goodyear Wrangler ATS, 16x8 Ivan Stewart Wheels
Hellwig anti-sway bar w/ Custom Front Range Offroad Quick-Disconnects
4.30 ring and pinion gears, TRD Dual Exhaust, TrueFlow filter, Superlift TruSpeed Cosmetic modifications
Debadged, De-decaled and De-labeled sun visors
Pace Edwards Retractable Cover, Toyota Sport Grille
TRD radiator cap, TRD oil cap
RS 3200 Plus Upgrade Modification wishlist
TRD or JBA titanium headers
JBA or possible custom y-pipe
TRD supercharger
IPT valve body mod
Custom Offroad Bumper
Demello offroad sliders
rear disc conversion
Moonroof and power sliding rear window
Where does it ever end
Cyberbilly is right you may have compromised the safety of your brakes. The two caliper hafts are sealed with a small square cut seal. If this slipped in position and was damaged or if dirt has gotten trapped between the hafts, there is a good chance you can loose your brakes. I checked in the Toyota manual and they don't recommend spiting the caliper haft even when replacing piston seals, therefore they don't give a bolt torque for the caliper bolts.
On the side of safety I will have to recommend that you now replace the calipers, but this is totally up to you. I would at lest climb under there and check that caliper for seeping between the haft at lest a few times a week until your confident that it sealed up well.
No one here want to see you have an accident because of this.
Mike
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“The significant problems we have cannot be solved at the same level of thinking with which we created them” (Albert Einstein) Moderator Brake Forum