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BrakesDiscussions about the brake system in your vehicle and brake products.
This is a discussion thread titled "Braking Shudder (Its not the rotors)HELP!!!", within the Brakes forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
2000 V-8 SR-5 4wd 130k ABS ....When braking to a stop my whole dash shakes violently .
I have just replaced Front and Rear brakes(rotors, pads, drums) and the rear diff was just replaced also(Dealer did differential) Tires balanced, Rotated. Alignment. It has done this before brake rebuild. Thinking warped rotors I replaced all brakes.
The steering wheel has no side to side movement. If I ease into the brakes I don't get it as much and not all the time. Stopping quick will most of the time result in violently shaking dash. What gives ?????? Struts?? Caliper??? Anybody???? Thanks AZ
Hopefully someone replys because my 2000 does the same thing! its not bad but noticable...I had my tires balanced i have new brakes, and the rotors are good! i have noo clue what it is....
2000 V-8 SR-5 4wd 130k ABS ....When braking to a stop my whole dash shakes violently .
I have just replaced Front and Rear brakes(rotors, pads, drums) and the rear diff was just replaced also(Dealer did differential) Tires balanced, Rotated. Alignment. It has done this before brake rebuild. Thinking warped rotors I replaced all brakes.
The steering wheel has no side to side movement. If I ease into the brakes I don't get it as much and not all the time. Stopping quick will most of the time result in violently shaking dash. What gives ?????? Struts?? Caliper??? Anybody???? Thanks AZ
Check the bushings on your steering rack. And any other bushings on the front end.
All a man really needs for happiness in this world is a good woman, a faithful dog, and a big-a$$ed set of tires on his truck.
__________________________________________________
Ride: 2001 Tundra SR5, 4WD, The Lean Mean Green Machine, Lift, Front: Bilstein 5100 Adjustable Shocks w/ Total Chaos Diff Drop, Lift, Rear: 1" Wheeler's Blocks, Wheels: Chromed Factory 4Runner Rims, 17", Tires: Bridgestone Revos, 285/70R-17, Performance: Unichip, Borla Exhaust, Optima Yellow-top Battery, Flux Capacitor, Interior: Dog Hair on Back Seat, Coffee Stains on Console, Bling: TRD Grille, Westin Nerf Bars, Clear Corners & Eurotails, Debadged, Audio: Scion T1808 Head Unit, Audiovox XM Express, Shark Fin Antenna, Other: Viair 450C compressor, 2.5 Gallon air tank, 4-Trumpet air horns, Eye Candy: Hottie Wife in Passenger Seat, Security System: Two Very Large Dogs
Hopefully someone replys because my 2000 does the same thing! its not bad but noticable...I had my tires balanced i have new brakes, and the rotors are good! i have noo clue what it is....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Azgoldrat
2000 V-8 SR-5 4wd 130k ABS ....When braking to a stop my whole dash shakes violently .
I have just replaced Front and Rear brakes(rotors, pads, drums) and the rear diff was just replaced also(Dealer did differential) Tires balanced, Rotated. Alignment. It has done this before brake rebuild. Thinking warped rotors I replaced all brakes.
The steering wheel has no side to side movement. If I ease into the brakes I don't get it as much and not all the time. Stopping quick will most of the time result in violently shaking dash. What gives ?????? Struts?? Caliper??? Anybody???? Thanks AZ
Something to consider is that a new part is not always a good one. This applies particularly to new brake drums on our trucks.
To find out what the cause is, you both need to do the rear brake run out test to eliminate the rear brakes as a possibility.
- While driving at around 45 mph, GRADUALY step on the parking brake until you start to feel your truck slowing down or the parking brake pedal engaging. Disengage the parking brake.
Let us know whether or not your truck shakes during this test.
Paul
__________________ Completed Mods:
S&S long tube headers
Brembo rotors
TSB caliper upgrade
Akebono ProAct ceramic pads
Stainless steel braided brake lines
Total Chaos steering rack bushings
Alignment to DJ's specs
Century cap
Line-X
XM Commander satellite radio w/USA Spec dual aux input adapter
Future Mods:
Rearview camera system
Sound deadener
Fusion Drive
Flux Capacitor Control Unit (FCCU)
did you do the brake job, or a shop?
If you did it, check the parts you bought. Wouldn't be the first time that a rotor or drum wasn't true...
If a shop did it, take it back...
__________________
Blacked out 2003 Limited 4X4 Access Cab with TRD Off-Road Package Debadged
2.5" Fabtech suspension lift
3" body lift
The shudder is a up and down type movement.
Bad Rack bushings would give a side to side movement in the steering wheel correct?
Steering wheel is side to side smooth while the dash shakes up and down.
I did the Brakes myself w/Centek rotors and drums.
Shudder did begin after rear brakes/ diff install.
Will try parking brake idea and check back.
Larry Miller Toyota did the rear diff right after rear brake install.
The game is afoot.
Thanks,
Az
Paul you nailed it.Rear DRUMS
Applied parking brake at 40mph and hells bells if the shuddering didn't want to shake the truck apart.
Now the question is if I have them turned will they true up????
Or should I bite the bullet and buy Stock Toyota from the stealership.
Thanks again Paul you made my Labor day(I always seem to end up working on Cars on Labor day why is that??)
It sounds like you got some good advice on determining if it is the front or rear brakes.
The information below is from Toyota TSB BR-003-02 REAR BRAKE VIBRATION.
Determine if vibration is from front or rear (while brakes are still warm from confirmation test driving).
The following procedure will isolate the drum brakes from the rest of the hydraulic system by using the parking brake.
A. Drive the Tundra along a smooth, level section of raod at approximately 40-50 mph.
B. Slowly apply the parking brake while driving until the brake begins to engage and slow the vehicle. Do not apply the parking brake past this poing of initial engagement.
C. Hold the parking brake at this point of initial engagement for a few seconds to slowly reduce the vehicle speed and allow adequate time to monitor the ride condition.
D. Disingage the parking brake.
E. If brake vibration is felt during step (C) then it indicates that the rear brake drums are one source of brake vibration on this vehicle.
F. If no vibration is felt during step (C), then the front brake assemblies are the most likely cause of brake vibration on this vehicle.
Last edited by tundraboy27909; 09-03-2007 at 07:43 PM.
Paul you nailed it.Rear DRUMS
Applied parking brake at 40mph and hells bells if the shuddering didn't want to shake the truck apart.
Now the question is if I have them turned will they true up????
Or should I bite the bullet and buy Stock Toyota from the stealership.
Thanks again Paul you made my Labor day(I always seem to end up working on Cars on Labor day why is that??)
Thanks all so far ........
AZ
I know how good it feels to find the cause of a problem. Glad you found a cause for yours. I say that because it is also possible that your front brakes may be contributing to the vibrations. That can be determined once you fix the rears and do the test again.
A couple people on this board have reported buying new drums that were out of round, neither of which bought Toyota or Brembo drums. It is also possible that your drums are fine but that the hubs are dirty or the rear wheel lugs were over-torqued when they were put back on. Sometimes the factory installed paper gasket that goes between the hub and the drum gets stuck to the hub the first time the drum is removed. If enough of the gasket is stuck to the hub when a drum (new or old) is installed, the drum can get cockeyed which results in rear brake vibration. Rust could also cause this problem.
A few people have had their rear drums turned and ended up having a worse problem. Can't recall anyone reporting that they had their drums turned and they got better. If you're certain your hubs were clean, you may need to take them back for an exchange or refund. You might want to try pulling them off and reinstalling them 90 degrees off to to see if that produces a change. You could try all 5 other postions as well, but that would take a bit of time and effort.
Were your hubs clean when you installed the new drums? Were the lugs torqued to 83 ft/lbs when the wheels were put back on?
Paul
__________________ Completed Mods:
S&S long tube headers
Brembo rotors
TSB caliper upgrade
Akebono ProAct ceramic pads
Stainless steel braided brake lines
Total Chaos steering rack bushings
Alignment to DJ's specs
Century cap
Line-X
XM Commander satellite radio w/USA Spec dual aux input adapter
Future Mods:
Rearview camera system
Sound deadener
Fusion Drive
Flux Capacitor Control Unit (FCCU)
Mine occasionally does the exact same thing and has since I have owned it. It can be very annoying. I guess I need to shell out the $$$ to get new rear drums/shoes installed.
Well I went to the Stealership and got charged $250.00 big ones for the pair of drums. Asked parts counter guy for Upgraded Drum and he says sure I know which one you need.Not having web access at that moment I take what he gives me part #: 42431-35210 this is the OLD drum part number Tellling me its the Redesigned drum part.....So I get home and find this Info (thanks again Paul)Old drum part #: 42431-35210
Redesigned drum part #: 42431-34021
So back I go and ask for the TSB part number and he tells me this is the 4Runner Drum and that the part number (Old part # )was redone and that its good to go......I have to wait till the next afternoon as they can only find one redesigned drum when they have 2 listed......
So what says yee.....
Do I still get the Old drum part #: 42431-35210 or should I go with the Redesigned drum part #: 42431-34021 and call it Safe.....
First, I'd go to a different dealership, that parts counter guy sounds like an idiot. Then I'd get the redesigned part# listed on the TSB. Better to play it safe from all angles.
__________________
FM Super 40 single in/dual out with dump tubes.
Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo 265/70-17's.
So back I go and ask for the TSB part number and he tells me this is the 4Runner Drum and that the part number (Old part # )was redone and that its good to go......I have to wait till the next afternoon as they can only find one redesigned drum when they have 2 listed......
So what says yee.....
Do I still get the Old drum part #: 42431-35210 or should I go with the Redesigned drum part #: 42431-34021 and call it Safe.....
Thanks. AL
The parts guy is clueless. I guess the dealership is pushing their parts guys to make more sales too.
I'm looking at the Toyota rear brake vibration TSB and your numbers are correct. The vehicle listed in the TSB is TUNDRA. 4Runner is not mentioned anywhere in the document.
See if you can get the parts guy to step away from the crack pipe or try to find a different parts guy. If you are going to pay for new drums, you should get the upgraded ones that are identified by the NEW part number.
Good luck,
Paul
__________________ Completed Mods:
S&S long tube headers
Brembo rotors
TSB caliper upgrade
Akebono ProAct ceramic pads
Stainless steel braided brake lines
Total Chaos steering rack bushings
Alignment to DJ's specs
Century cap
Line-X
XM Commander satellite radio w/USA Spec dual aux input adapter
Future Mods:
Rearview camera system
Sound deadener
Fusion Drive
Flux Capacitor Control Unit (FCCU)
The drums are bought and paid for already... parts guy said would have parts in by tomorrow afternoon for me to pick up ....34021 numbered part No difference in price he says...Thar Confuser says they have 2 but them there could only find um one in the back 40 So them hallered at there kin and would have Bubba drag it back to the hollow for redemption.
Thanks again we will see the creditability of the parts guy by tomorrow He had me leave the parts with him for the exchange .
AL
Braking Shudder (Its not the rotors)HELP!!!
Re: Braking Shudder (Its not the rotors)HELP!!!
(I always seem to end up working on Cars on Labor day why is that??)
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