For about the past month when I hit a bad bump goin down the road my ABS light comes on and whenever I restart my truck it goes off. And now if I hit the slightest bump while breaking the ABS kicks in and it is almost impossible to get it to stop. I figured it is some kinda short somewhere, but dont know where to start lookin. What do yall think?
__________________
2005 A/C SR5 4X4 V8
2 1/2 spacers,TC diff drop, 265/70/17 Nitto Terra Grapplers, flowmaster exaust, 20% tint , Lo profile Husky truck box, 7" Clarion in-dash, Kicker CVR 10" sub, Punch 300, Memphis highs and more to come!!!
For about the past month when I hit a bad bump goin down the road my ABS light comes on and whenever I restart my truck it goes off. And now if I hit the slightest bump while breaking the ABS kicks in and it is almost impossible to get it to stop. I figured it is some kinda short somewhere, but dont know where to start lookin. What do yall think?
The first thing to check is the brake fluid level in your master cylinder. The low level float can cause what you are seeing. If it's not that it might be one the ABS wheel sensors.
Larry
__________________
2004 Tundra V8 Limited Access Cab 4X4, Michelin 265/65/R17 LTX-AT2's, Auto Dim Comp/Temp Mirror, Aero Turbine #2525 muffler, Access Roll Up Cover, Optima D31A battery, Multi-Vex adaptive outside mirrors, Eclipse AVN5510 Nav unit and Sirius SIR-ECL1 tuner, as of 10/07 pictures in my photo gallery
If a combo of all these whizz bangs met their claims you'd have to siphon gas out of your tank every second day and sell the excess horsepower on the third????
If your engine doesn't consume ANY oil it will seize???
Some people should not be allowed access to tools without books!!!
Not exactly where they are other than at each wheel near the brake front rotors and rear drum assys. They sense whether there is wheel rotation or not to provide feedback to the ABS computer about what's happening traction wise. The reason I mention them is that you said the light flickered when you hit bumps. It might be a wiring connection loose or a mount has come loose. You might also check the main electrical connector right at the ABS distribution unit on your right under hood fender-well. It'll have a multitude of steel brake lines in and out of it and has a handle type release that you need to move up or down to disconnect the wiring harness.
Larry
__________________
2004 Tundra V8 Limited Access Cab 4X4, Michelin 265/65/R17 LTX-AT2's, Auto Dim Comp/Temp Mirror, Aero Turbine #2525 muffler, Access Roll Up Cover, Optima D31A battery, Multi-Vex adaptive outside mirrors, Eclipse AVN5510 Nav unit and Sirius SIR-ECL1 tuner, as of 10/07 pictures in my photo gallery
If a combo of all these whizz bangs met their claims you'd have to siphon gas out of your tank every second day and sell the excess horsepower on the third????
If your engine doesn't consume ANY oil it will seize???
Some people should not be allowed access to tools without books!!!
Your ABS computer has been storing codes. Get the codes read will lead you to the area where the problem is.
I agree this is most likely a wheel speed sensor or a sensor connection.
Mike
__________________
“The significant problems we have cannot be solved at the same level of thinking with which we created them” (Albert Einstein) Moderator Brake Forum
The codes will need to be read with a scanner with ABS capability. Most repair shops will do this for a minimal fee. Some places like Auto Zone do it at no cost.
Mike
__________________
“The significant problems we have cannot be solved at the same level of thinking with which we created them” (Albert Einstein) Moderator Brake Forum