Tundra Solutions Logo

Go Back   Tundra Solutions Forum > Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums > Brakes

Readylift.com
Free Shipping at Buy.com!
FREE Personal Trainer Program

Notices

Brakes Discussions about the brake system in your vehicle and brake products.

This is a discussion thread titled "Checking Brakes", within the Brakes forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2007, 07:48 PM
Registered Member
 
My Garage
Dealer : Lagrange Toyota
2006 Toyota Tundra
Kevo's Photo Albums
Last Online: 08-27-2008 08:03 AM
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Hamilton, Ga
Posts: 667
Rep Power: 3
Kevo is on a distinguished road.
Default Checking Brakes

I was checking my brakes last weekend because of a squeal I was getting but I ended up cleaned off the front rotors and it went away. Now for my question, what is the best way to get the cover off the drum brakes? I was going to clean them out also because I couldn't figure it out so bolted the tire back on and headed back out on the road. Also my friend came over thinking I was about to changed the front pads and said something about a relieve valve somewhere first or something, said all new cars have it otherwise it will set off the ABS sensor. Is that true? Only vehicles I've done brakes on are older so I'm not sure about this new stuff.

Thanks for the help
__________________

2006 Tundra Double-Cab X-SP 4WD
2.5" piping w/ Magnaflow (clip in gallery) - OBX Pedals - 20% Tint - DEBADGED!
Pioneer Z1 w/backup CAM & ipod - Painted Brake Calipers - ATE Slotted Rotors + Pads
2.5 Daystar w/ AAL - 275/55/20 Toyo A/T
Reply With Quote

  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-02-2007, 06:27 AM
MEvang's Avatar
 
My Garage
Dealer : Toyota of Cincinnati Co.
2001 Toyota Tundra
MEvang's Photo Albums
Last Online: Today 05:59 AM
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Colerain
Age: 48
Posts: 952
Rep Power: 4
MEvang will become famous soon enough.
Default Re: Checking Brakes

The rear drums are likely rusted to the axle hub, this is very common. To remove them it's first a good idea to hit the hub to drum area with some PB Blaster or similar liquid rust cutter. Let is soak a bit.
If you look closely you'll see two threaded holes in the drum, these take a small metric bolt which I believe is a 8 x 1.25 mm but I'm not positive.
Use these two bolts to dislodge the drum from the hub. Never hit these drums with a hammer unless you plan on throwing them out, it will damage them.
When your ready to reinstall the drum line up the bolt holes to the marks on the hub. This will insure that the drum goes back on in the same position it came off and should help prevent a run out problem. If you find a paper shim on the inside of the drum and it is damaged it is best to remove all of it, clean the hub and drum well and use a thin coating of silicone brake grease to keep the drum from sticking.

There is no relieve valve, but I think I know your friend may be confused about.
When replacing front pads you must push the caliper pistons back into their bores. This pushes fluid back through the system and into the master cylinder. This is usually not a problem unless you have ABS, then the fluid must also travel back through the valveing in the ABS unit. It is possible for contaminates that have settled in the calipers to be pushed up into the ABS unit and clog up the tiny passages in the dump and hold valves.
To prevent this it is suggested that you open the caliper bleeder valve and then seat that calipers pistons. This will prevent the back flow that could cause damage.
While your at it is a good idea to bleed the front brakes and install new brake fluid.
Mike
__________________
“The significant problems we have cannot be solved at the same level of thinking with which we created them” (Albert Einstein)
Moderator Brake Forum
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 10-02-2007, 07:13 AM
LGL002's Avatar
 
My Garage
Dealer : Rudy Luther's Toyota
2003 Toyota Camry SE ,V6, Nav,
- Other - 1969 Ford Torino GT,
2004 Toyota Tundra Limited A/C 4X4
LGL002's Photo Albums
Last Online: Yesterday 09:45 PM
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Plymouth, MN
Age: 67
Posts: 2,038
Rep Power: 8
LGL002 is on a distinguished road.
Default Re: Checking Brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by MEvang View Post
The rear drums are likely rusted to the axle hub, this is very common. To remove them it's first a good idea to hit the hub to drum area with some PB Blaster or similar liquid rust cutter. Let is soak a bit.
If you look closely you'll see two threaded holes in the drum, these take a small metric bolt which I believe is a 8 x 1.25 mm but I'm not positive.
Use these two bolts to dislodge the drum from the hub. Never hit these drums with a hammer unless you plan on throwing them out, it will damage them.
When your ready to reinstall the drum line up the bolt holes to the marks on the hub. This will insure that the drum goes back on in the same position it came off and should help prevent a run out problem. If you find a paper shim on the inside of the drum and it is damaged it is best to remove all of it, clean the hub and drum well and use a thin coating of silicone brake grease to keep the drum from sticking.

There is no relieve valve, but I think I know your friend may be confused about.
When replacing front pads you must push the caliper pistons back into their bores. This pushes fluid back through the system and into the master cylinder. This is usually not a problem unless you have ABS, then the fluid must also travel back through the valveing in the ABS unit. It is possible for contaminates that have settled in the calipers to be pushed up into the ABS unit and clog up the tiny passages in the dump and hold valves.
To prevent this it is suggested that you open the caliper bleeder valve and then seat that calipers pistons. This will prevent the back flow that could cause damage.
While your at it is a good idea to bleed the front brakes and install new brake fluid.
Mike
Not sure if Toyota uses them but domestic makers install a couple sheet metal clips on two of the wheel studs to retain the brake drum to the axle during production. These just hold the drum to the vehicle during it's trip down the assembly line and can be tossed by the owner when the drum's removed.

Larry
__________________
2004 Tundra V8 Limited Access Cab 4X4 , Auto Dim Comp/Temp Mirror, Aero Turbine #2525 muffler, Access Roll Up Cover, Optima D31A battery, Multi-Vex adaptive outside mirrors, Eclipse AVN5510 Nav unit and Sirius SIR-ECL1 tuner as of 10/07 pictures in my photo gallery

2003 Camry SE V6 Navigation, Sirius, Lunar Mist
Optima 34R battery

If a combo of all these whizz bangs met their claims you'd have to syphon gas out of your tank every second day and sell the excess horsepower on the third????
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On
Forum Jump

Similar Threads for: Checking Brakes
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Should I be scared to buy a 2000 Tundra b/c of brakes? Buzz Brakes 39 07-25-2007 06:12 AM
Finally have brakes working garabaldy Tundra 0 03-21-2007 01:34 PM
Are my brakes failing? jlift 1Gen-Tundra 2 09-21-2006 12:07 PM
Drum vs. Disc for towing dsrtrcr01 Towing 5 03-23-2006 04:25 PM
New Brakes at 18,000 miles? ('03 Sequoia) SequoiaGal Brakes 7 12-16-2004 08:00 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:13 AM.


TundraSolutions.com is a registered trademark of Tundra Solutions, Inc.
Other trademarks and brands are the property of their respective owners. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of the TundraSolutions.com User Agreement and Privacy Policy.
Questions? Please use the Contact Us link.  Consumer Electronics Hunter  Dealer Hunter  JPV Photography  Tundra Solutions