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BrakesDiscussions about the brake system in your vehicle and brake products.
This is a discussion thread titled "stainless brake lines????????", within the Brakes forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
does it matter the mfg.i seen stop tech on ebay 4 bout 60 bucks.theyre dot compliant
my question is it better to with goodridge and the top name one or these for the $$$.thx
Check out this link:tech_B Go down the page until you get to the write up on SS brake hoses. After you read this you won't want the cheap stuff.
Mike
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“The significant problems we have cannot be solved at the same level of thinking with which we created them” (Albert Einstein) Moderator Brake Forum
I also have the Russell SS brake lines which I've had on for a little over a year. I bought mine out of sheer desperation while trying to solve a wheel / brake squeek that was occurring during non-braking situations. Unfortunately, that situation was resolved only this spring when I replaced the OEM rotors with Brembos. In any event, they are pretty high quality hoses and I've had no problems with them, but I don't know if they're worth the money. Aside from a slightly firmer pedal under heavy braking due to the lack of line expansion vs. the rubber lines, I don't really feel any difference. At $66 + shipping, it's not the type of purchase that will haunt you if you decide to go for it, but I think there are better mods to spend your money on.
Dave
__________________ 2001 Silver Sky Metallic 4x2 SR5 V8 Access Cab TRD | JBA Titanium Ceramic Coated Headers | Ivan Stewart Aero Kit | Ivan Stewart Graphics and Plaque | ABS | Auto Dimming Temp/Compass Mirror | Toyota Chrome Tube Steps | Toyota UTR Bed Liner | Hidden Hitch receiver w/ DrawTite Wiring | Toyota VIP 3000 Security System | TRD Floor Mats | Alpine CDA-9811 HU | Sirius Sportster Satellite Radio | Polk Audio DB6500 Components (Front) | Polk Audio DB675 Coaxials (Rear) | Alpine MRP-F450 Amp. | JL Audio Stealthbox | JL Audio 250/1 Amp. | Total Chaos Steering Rack Bushings | Hellwig Rear Anti-Sway Bar w/ Greaseable Bushing Mod | Daystar Front Urethane Bushing Kit w/ Greaseable Bushing Mod | Optima 34R Battery | Russell Stainless Steel Brake Lines | Brembo rotors | OSRAM SilverStar Headlights | Sylvania SilverStar Fog Lights | 5 Michelin LTX M/S Tires and Extra Alloy Wheel for 5 Wheel Rotation | Wheel and Spare Tire Locks | Synthetic Fluids
thx for that article it was interesting.
so now that ive done the tsb on my 02 tundra,should i keep using the old brake hoses or upgrade??/
You are better off with the factor hose unless you do lots of heavy off roading.
Mike
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“The significant problems we have cannot be solved at the same level of thinking with which we created them” (Albert Einstein) Moderator Brake Forum
Even offroad, rubber lines have a lot of advantages.
If you catch a stainless covered line on something, maybe it will pull out of the fitting, maybe it will pull your caliper around, maybe it will snap...who knows. Depends on how well the stainless braid is attached to the ends. The actual line isn't stretchy like the rubber lines.
On a front end, where everything flexes much more, rubber won't trap gunk inside itself and slowly eat away at the carrier line. If your suspension flexes more than you thought it would, rubber will stretch. Rubber can also twist, whereas the stainless line two piece ends must overcome friction to move around, and it's a lot once they're in place, tight, and have a set curve...I gently use a pair of grips on the swaged section and hold the fitting with a wrench to change the position of the curve in the line, don't expect steering or suspension cycling to move the lines. I looked at putting stainless lines on the front years ago and didn't like the way the suspension cycle twisted the line, so I passed. FWIW the lines are the style mentioned in the article, with a hydraulic hose covered in stainless braid, rotating fitting swaged to end, and I believe A/N thread so the appropriate adapter (metric, SAE, BPT, two different angles of nipple, etc.) can be attached. The section with threads and flats can move completely independent of the hose, even when it's installed...but be aware it's not easy to move.
I have replaced the rear rubber line with a stainless covered teflon (I assume) line, because I needed the extra length and it was far easier to buy an already-made stainless covered line vs have a rubber line made. It hardly moves when the rear suspension cycles.
The rear calipers also have a stainless covered line from the hardline on the axle, so I can hang the caliper out of the way to service the hubs (I have rear discs and a full float rear axle). There was no reason to use rubber there, the line is well protected from road debris and hungry rocks, and during normal use doesn't move at all.
The front is still rubber and will remain that way until I need longer lines. The front lines are always moving, and I don't want gunk slowly grinding away at the hydraulic line behind the braid where I can't see it. I'm ambivalent about using stainless covered lines up there.
Hopefully that helps. Stainless lines have their place but they're not really necessary on vehicles like ours...they're just easier to find than custom length aftermarket rubber lines.
stainless brake lines????????
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