2000 Tundra Rear Brakes, Leaking Diff Oil?

[zootjeff]

Hi,

I just bought a 2000 Tundra with 120k on it and it felt like my rear brakes don't really do much when I have the e-brake fully pressed. I haven't tried adjusting it, but I've been pulling the wheels and taking a look at the pads to see where I am. When peering through the rear view hole I have plenty of pad left and I'm not having any issues other than the week e-brake.

When I pulled off the rear right wheel I noticed a bunch of oil all over the drum and inside of the wheel, I also noticed a layer of oil on the inside of the drum coating the side of the pads (when viewed from the little peep hole.)

There are pictures of the oily drums here:

http://www.mpegbox.net/Tundra/Rear_Drum/

Also, I can't seem to get the drum off, seems like it's rusted on. What is the best way to get a drum off when hitting it lightly with a rubber hammer all over, and trying to tap it from the view hole doesn't seem to be working?

Are all those small holes near the lugs threaded? They don't seem to be but maybe they are dirty. If they are, what size bolt do I need? Is there a special tool to remove a drum?



If I am leaking rear diff oil, how big of a job is that for me to do myself? Do I need any special tools?

Thanks for any advice!

-Jeff

[MEvang]

Jeff,
This is a rear axle seal leak and a pretty bad one. You will need to replace the shoes, axle seal and axle bearing as they are likely flushed of their permanent packed lubricate.The wheel cylinder may also be damaged as the grease will swell the rubber parts. The drum could also be damaged as the greasy shoes can overheat spot on the drum surface causing "hot shots", raised areas that will not machine out.
You can do this job yourself but will need to take the axle to a machine shop to have the bearings pressed on and off.
The holes in the drums are for removal. Use some metric bolts to pull the drum, I believe these are 8 mm.
Mike

[zootjeff]

Originally Posted by MEvang

Jeff,
This is a rear axle seal leak and a pretty bad one. You will need to replace the shoes, axle seal and axle bearing as they are likely flushed of their permanent packed lubricate.The wheel cylinder may also be damaged as the grease will swell the rubber parts. The drum could also be damaged as the greasy shoes can overheat spot on the drum surface causing "hot shots", raised areas that will not machine out.
You can do this job yourself but will need to take the axle to a machine shop to have the bearings pressed on and off.
The holes in the drums are for removal. Use some metric bolts to pull the drum, I believe these are 8 mm.
Mike

Mike,

Thanks so much for helping me on this! Is this a common problem with the 2000 tundras? Is it possible that the after-market wheels caused this or is it just something that happens on a truck with 120k on it?

Thanks,

-Jeff

[zootjeff]

I found some service records on this.
Looks like at 104K the previous owner had them replace both bearings and seals due to leaking. Here is what they re-installed

1 Shoe Kit, Brake
2 Seals Type D Oil
2 Ring-O
2 Rotor Skid Contr
4 Retainer RR axle
2 Ring Shaft Snap
2 Gasket Brake Oil
1 Bearing Radial B
2 Seal Type K Oil
2 Wiper Insert B4

Sounds like the put on a new right rear drum because the tech damaged it.

But now 18K miles later it leaks?

Hmm.

[MEvang]

This does not surprise me, seems that once these seal start to leak it hard to get them resealed. This is of no fault but the technicians doing the job. If your sloppy and careless it will leak again. This is why, with a little instruction, you are better off doing it yourself. I find that a unskilled owner if many more times observant and careful then a tech that's in a big hurry to get it out of his bay.
Here is some rules for a successfully seal install:
1) Don't damage the seal. There are proper tool to install a seal but if your very careful you can makeshift something. Just make sure its in square and has not been distorted. If your in doubt, get another seal. This is the cheapest part of this job.
2) Using a little sealer around the outside of the seal won't hurt. Matter of fact I recommended it.
3) Lubricate the seal. This is almost always skipped and the seal burns up in a few miles. Use a little white grease on the seal lip and axle.
4) Make sure there is no damage to the surface of the axle that the seal rides on. If there are some minor nicks or scratches use some emery cloth and clean it up. If real bad replace the axle.
5) Be careful not to nick the seal when you slide the axle back in. Most seals that leak right away are damaged when the axle is installed.
One last thing, take the time to completely clean up all the mess. Grease you leave behind can make you think you have a leak latter when you don't.
Follow these rules and you can't go wrong.
Mike

[zootjeff]

If I was going to do this right, how many of these parts should I re-use and how many should I replace? I see two oil seals, and an oil guard. Is is just the outer oil seal that fails?

Does anyone have a link to the details of the TSB Mod where the pressure relief valve is drilled out? I think I read something about that somewhere..

[MEvang]

As you see here there are two oil seals. The one it the top illustration is the one that will leak causing the mess. The oil seal on the bottom illustration is there more to keep water and dirt out. Both are important, replace them both. Also replace the O-ring which seals the bearing retainer to the diff housing.
The bearing, which will need replaced is held on with the retainer. Both are friction pressed on and not reusable. The snap ring may be reusable but since it's been off once you may want to go a head and replace it, why take a chance. The gasket the goes on the Oil Deflector will need replaced too.
If you have ABS, get a new speed sensor rotor. Sometimes these can be saved but many times they are damaged when removed. If you see any damage to the teeth or and possible distortion, replace it. This can affect your ABS operation. You can always return it is you don't need it.
Basically all parts you see with a asterisk beside them will need replaced. The one part you can eliminate is the gasket between the drum and axle. This tends to cause more problems then it's worth. Just make sure there is no old gasket material remaining on the axle or drum and use a bit of silicon grease to prevent rust build up.
Mike