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BrakesDiscussions about the brake system in your vehicle and brake products.
This is a discussion thread titled "Which rotors to cure pulsating?", within the Brakes forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
I have a 2002 Tundra V6, 4wd.
I have been plagued with the pulsating front disc brake problem.
I just had the dealer clean and adjust the rear brakes and emerg brake.
Now I want to install new rotors that are more able to handle the heat without warping.
Which rotors would you suggest? My local auto parts store has a vented rotor that is an upgrade from standard equip. They look like 2 rotors back to back with a space between them to vent out the heat.
Then they have the drilled and slotted rotors that are an upgrade from the vented rotors.
Which ones would you recommend? Do you have an online parts source that you recommend?
Thanks for any info or advice.
Len in NC
I was having repeated brake problems with my 2001 Tundra until I upgraded my OEM rotors to Brembos last April and I haven't had a problem since. I went with the Brembo OEM replacement model #25534 -- a plain ol' rotor with no slotting or drilling -- that was in the neighborhood of $60 per rotor when I got them.
Dave
__________________ 2001 Silver Sky Metallic 4x2 SR5 V8 Access Cab TRD | JBA Titanium Ceramic Coated Headers | Ivan Stewart Aero Kit | Ivan Stewart Graphics and Plaque | ABS | Auto Dimming Temp/Compass Mirror | Toyota Chrome Tube Steps | Toyota UTR Bed Liner | Hidden Hitch receiver w/ DrawTite Wiring | Toyota VIP 3000 Security System | TRD Floor Mats | Alpine CDA-9811 HU | Sirius Sportster Satellite Radio | Polk Audio DB6500 Components (Front) | Polk Audio DB675 Coaxials (Rear) | Alpine MRP-F450 Amp. | JL Audio Stealthbox | JL Audio 250/1 Amp. | Total Chaos Steering Rack Bushings | Hellwig Rear Anti-Sway Bar w/ Greaseable Bushing Mod | Daystar Front Urethane Bushing Kit w/ Greaseable Bushing Mod | Optima 34R Battery | Russell Stainless Steel Brake Lines | Brembo rotors | OSRAM SilverStar Headlights | Sylvania SilverStar Fog Lights | 5 Michelin LTX M/S Tires and Extra Alloy Wheel for 5 Wheel Rotation | Wheel and Spare Tire Locks | Synthetic Fluids
You know, I switch to centics back when I was around 30k+. Still have them and no pulsating, I tow alot too. Guess what, Wheelers are selling centrics now.
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JBA Headers, Costum Exhaust, ASP U/D Pulley, Centric Crossdrilled & Slotted Fr Rotors, LSD, IS Kit, Manik SS Steps, HID Headlights & Fogs, Pacer Tailgate LED Light Bar, Blacked Out Headlight & corners
Anyone got any opinion on Evolution rotors?
I found a set of 2 cross drilled and slotted rotors for $95.00 online at Auto Parts Warehouse. Are these any good?
The rotor is not the problem, and you are more likely to get a pulsation with a drilled rotor as it has less mass.
The problem lies in the conditions the rotor is installed in. If the hub is not clean and has a rust free surface, if runout is present in the hub and is transferred to the rotor or if the lug nuts are not properly torque when installed, you end up with a pulsation.
Buy a good replacement rotor, save your money as drilled rotors are a waste. Make sure the hub is very clean and torque the lug nuts. You will likely find the problem is solved.
Also be aware that high speed pulsations can be coming from the rear drums. This is very common on these trucks.
Mike
__________________
"That the automobile has practically reached the limit of its development is suggested by the fact that during the past year no improvements of a radical nature have been introduced." (Scientific American January 2, 1909). Moderator Brake Forum
I would go for the Powerslot rotors with Hawk pads.
I second this big time!
I have this setup on my truck and its awesome.
I only use Hawk pads on my cars.
I got my setup from Lift Kits, Tires & Wheels by 4 Wheel Parts some time ago.
Here is a code that you can use at autoanything.com to get 10% off of the powerslot rotors (or anything else). It expires on Friday. Enter this code at checkout. EAP08029C
The term warping when applied to brake rotors tends to be a misnomer.
Sintered iron is inherently designed by its application NOT to warp.
What is occuring is called glazing buildup. It the exchange of material between pads and the rotors.
This will cause a Runout condition that many refer to as warping.
Also, as mentioned in above post indicates. One must always use a torque wrench to specs. when installing the lug nuts. This will assure an even load across the "torque ring" of each rim as it mates to the rotors surface. This will prevent any lateral run-out due to fitment installation.
What's the best way to remove rotors that seem to be frozen onto the hub? Does one just wack it from teh back or smack it on the hat portion on the hub. I will be replacing them, so am not looking to prevent any damage.
__________________ 2002 Tundra AC 4x4 Off Road Package - Revtek coil lift with Wheeler's 1.5" AAL. Superlift Truspeed Recalibration unit. Flomaster dual exhaust. Husky floor liners. Hellwig anti sway bar. Xmas Gift 2006 - 3" Perf. Accessories body lift and Gap guards - Installed 1/6/07! New tires in March 2007 - BFG AT 30570r16 on MT Classic IIs. Total Chaos steering bushing kit. Front swaybar bushing kit from Wheelers Offroad. Stubbie 21" antenna. Underdrive pulley installed with NAPA belt. Timing chain replacement and brake job are next!
Use some PB Buster and some good even wacks from behind the rotors. It will gradually walk out off the hub.
Before yu install your new rotors...steel brush any excess rust and corrosion...then apply Anti-Sieze to the hub and new rotors where they will contact. Yu will have no issues removing them in the future.
BTW, if yu have alloy wheels ...put a light coat of antisieze onto the backside torque ring of the rims where they will meet the hub.
I personally like to put a very small drop of the same on my lug nut studs too. Just using Anti-sieze once in this manner will last for many years and your rims will not freeze onto your hub.
This is most critical for winter salted regions.