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This is a discussion thread titled "Front Brakes and Bleeding Procedure", within the Brakes forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.


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Old 07-07-2008, 04:17 PM
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Default Front Brakes and Bleeding Procedure

I need to put a new set of front brake pads on my 05 Tundra. I have spent a lot of time reading some of the threads about brake jobs and bleeding the brake lines. I have done a few brake jobs in the past but have never bled the brake fluid.

Basically, what I have gathered from this Forum is that in order to compress the caliper piston properly, I need to open the bleed valves so that dirt and crap doesn’t make its way into the piston/calipers. And since I am doing that, I might as well bleed the brake lines (my truck has about 26K miles and I am sure this has never been done before).

After reading all these past threads on the Forum, I have seen a lot of commentary on bleeding brake lines, what brake fluid to use, etc….but I have never really seen a step by step procedure. I just want to keep things simple as possible so I will be using the basic pump the brakes and bleed procedure.

But I am not really sure how to do this. Do I need to have someone pump the brakes a couple of times until the pedal almost falls to the floor and then open the bleed valve? And how many times do I have to do this per wheel? And I have to keep refilling the brake fluid resivoir, right? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 07-07-2008, 06:54 PM
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Default Re: Front Brakes and Bleeding Procedure

Quote:
Originally Posted by m5allen View Post
I need to put a new set of front brake pads on my 05 Tundra. I have spent a lot of time reading some of the threads about brake jobs and bleeding the brake lines. I have done a few brake jobs in the past but have never bled the brake fluid.

Basically, what I have gathered from this Forum is that in order to compress the caliper piston properly, I need to open the bleed valves so that dirt and crap doesn’t make its way into the piston/calipers. And since I am doing that, I might as well bleed the brake lines (my truck has about 26K miles and I am sure this has never been done before).

After reading all these past threads on the Forum, I have seen a lot of commentary on bleeding brake lines, what brake fluid to use, etc….but I have never really seen a step by step procedure. I just want to keep things simple as possible so I will be using the basic pump the brakes and bleed procedure.

But I am not really sure how to do this. Do I need to have someone pump the brakes a couple of times until the pedal almost falls to the floor and then open the bleed valve? And how many times do I have to do this per wheel? And I have to keep refilling the brake fluid resivoir, right? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
With 26K on the truck, I wouldn't be too concerned about contaminants in your brake fluid.
If the brake fluid is clean/clear in the master, I'd do the following if all you are doing is a brake job;
With a "C" clamp, compress the brake piston to fully seated on one side with the caliper removed, brake bleeder "closed". This will push the brake fluid back into your master cylinder.
*Note*. Make sure the other caliper/s are attached to the truck, touching the rotors so you don't force a caliper piston out by compressing the removed caliper. Make sense?
OK, do each brake, one at a time, replacing the brake pads as you go. Re-attaching each caliper as you go before compressing the nex caliper.
This will continually push brake fluid into the master so if your master is full to begin with, it will overflow so you'll want to remove the cap and have a container of some sort under the master to collect the excess fluid.
*Note...again* Do not open any bleeders as you compress the caliper pistons!
When you have finished replacing the brakes/pads, press the brake pedal until it's firm.
Check the level of the brake fluid and add any "New" fluid if needed.

If you find it necessary to bleed the brakes, do the following after the brake job;
With a friend, spouse, lover whatever....have them pump the brakes and hold pressure on the brake pedal.
Starting at the right rear, open bleeder till the person above says "floor". You know they have stroked out the travel of the master cylinder.
Close the bleeder and have them pump the pedal a few times. Tell them to "hold" and open the bleeder till....you get the idea.
Next go to the left rear, do the same as above. Then the right front and left front till you are done.
*Note....yes, again." Check the level of the master ocassionally as you bled the brakes! DON'T LET THE MASTER CYLINDER RUN OUT OF BRAKE FLUID!
I really don't think at that low of miles and new of a vehicle I'd worry about bleeding the system.
Good luck and hope this helped!
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Old 07-07-2008, 10:46 PM
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Default Re: Front Brakes and Bleeding Procedure

Thanks Flash!

Is it necessary to remove the caliper in order to compress the piston? On other cars, I have always used the hold brake pad, turned it around and pressed in the piston with a big wrench or a C clamp.
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Old 07-08-2008, 06:07 AM
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Default Re: Front Brakes and Bleeding Procedure

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Originally Posted by m5allen View Post
Thanks Flash!

Is it necessary to remove the caliper in order to compress the piston? On other cars, I have always used the hold brake pad, turned it around and pressed in the piston with a big wrench or a C clamp.
Sure, you can compress the piston that way.
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Old 07-08-2008, 07:33 AM
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Default Re: Front Brakes and Bleeding Procedure

Quote:
Originally Posted by m5allen View Post
Thanks Flash!

Is it necessary to remove the caliper in order to compress the piston? On other cars, I have always used the hold brake pad, turned it around and pressed in the piston with a big wrench or a C clamp.
You should not have to remove the caliper.

On each pad, there is a pair of tabs that stick out through which the pins that secure the pad go. Rather than using a C-clamp (which I think is kind of awkward) use a pair of Channel Lock pliers and squeeze the piston back by grabbing the caliper body and a tab on the old pad.

Squeeze it back, replace the pad, then do the squeeze thing on the opposite pad.

It should be a five-minute job per side, not counting jacking the truck up and removing the wheels.
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Last edited by Cyberbilly; 07-08-2008 at 07:50 AM.
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