At 21,000 miles my front rotors on my tundra are already shot. Dealership said im on my own (typical) so I want to do this right. Is there an aftermarket rotor and pad setup available for the 07 5.7L tundra that will outperform factory? I really dont need better stopping power, I just want something that will last longer.
Why would your rotor be shot at 21K? Are the warped? Did you grind into them? Have the been measured and can they be machined?
Mike
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“The significant problems we have cannot be solved at the same level of thinking with which we created them” (Albert Einstein) Moderator Brake Forum
Yes they are most definately warped. 21k miles, very little towing(all of which under 3000 lbs), some hard driving and I already have the dreaded brake "shimmy". Tried to see if toyota would help me but "we cant do anything about it since its over a year old". Ok...I guess this is the kind of quality and service toyota has come to. So, since thats the case I dont want to polish a dog turd by machining down these junk rotars for them to be warped in another couple thousand miles, I would rather just replace them with a higher quality set.
My advice is to use either Brembo or Raybestos rotors. Make sure the hubs are clean and free of rust and always make sure the wheels are torqued and never installed with a impact.
Mike
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“The significant problems we have cannot be solved at the same level of thinking with which we created them” (Albert Einstein) Moderator Brake Forum
Thanks for the advice. I have had no luck with finding brembo rotars for my truck, but have found that raybestos carries the front, but not the rear.
Is it an accepted practice to replace the front disc's with a higher performing brand, and leave the stock rears? When I do the job I plan on replacing all pads, and would love to get the rear disc's as well, but it doesnt look like that will be an option.
It's most likely your fronts are causing the pulsation, only dial indicting the rotors will tell for sure. There are no real "high performance" rotors. Rotor performance comes from it's mass and it's ability to shed heat. Drilled and grooved rotors have no performance gain on the street and are likely to give less performance since they have less mass.
To have a performance rotor you must do one of two things, increase mass which means increase size, this being impractical to do without major changes like larger calipers and maybe wheels.
The other is increase air flow through the rotor. This can be done by curving the vanes to help draw air through the rotor.
When buying rotors, all rotor will have the same external dimensions but be aware that some manufactures cheat by make their rotors lighter, this is easiest done by cutting down on the edge thickness. See the first photo. The rotor you buy should be as thick as the one you are replacing.
Something new and interesting is being advertised my NAPA. It is a staggered vain venting design to improve air flow though the rotor. Second photo. I am not sure if these are available for Tundras yet but you could ask. Other then that your not going to do much better then the factory design.
Mike
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“The significant problems we have cannot be solved at the same level of thinking with which we created them” (Albert Einstein) Moderator Brake Forum
Stay away from China made parts!!!! They will warp.
It's always best to replace rather then have them turned.
I have been using partsgeek.com
With regular shipping I get my orders in less then 48 hours here in Maine.
They often have a wide selection to choose from but with your late model they have only one.
same problem here in canada evan harder to find parts but ive been looking at the EBC rotors not shure what manufacture to go with defenetly need a sloted & mabe evan drilled disc
I'm in the same boat. My rotors are just f'd. I should have had them replaced when the vibes started at around 6k. Now I have just over 17k and they shimmy like mad when I need to slow down getting off the freeway. Funny part is I have never towed a thing or carried any major weight. I'll be getting them cut down soon and I'm on the hunt for a better rotor.
BTW: autopartswarehouse,carpartswholesale,car-stuff and probably a few I have not found yet all belong to the same group. I have delt with them and are decent people to deal with just have patience. The customer service side is kind of a PITA depending on the rep you end up talking to but they try to make you happy with any issues.
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'07 SR5 DC 5.7 silver sky metalic
5% tint rear windows, 2 Flowmaster 40 series w/ dual tips out the back, Carriage Works polished grill overlay w/emblem, 3-piece bumper inserts (not CW), Airaid, Ground Force rear shocks, DJM 3" arms, belltech flip kit, 22" BOSS 329 w/ 305/45/22 General grabber UHP, G2 bakflip.
hey guys i have a 08 tundra crewmax and i am looking to upgrade my brakes as well. i have 20k on my brake and i run them extremely hard. they have held up extremely well. i have no brake shimmy at all and i still have more than half pad life left. i just want to upgrade my stopping power. i would highly recommend power slot rotors. i use them at work on many different cars and have never had a issue with them. i am putting the power slot cryo rotors on the front and rear. the cryo rotors are a even better rotors. probably then best aftermarket rotor there is. you can get them at autoanything.com i am also putting in stainless steel brake lines made by goodridge and ceramic brake pads. that will make a enormous difference. what ever you do when you do your brakes, make sure you go with a full ceramic brake pad or a kevlar brake pad, preferably ceramic. Metallic pads which come in a ll cars from the factory and are most replacement pads are nothing but trouble and highly decrease your stopping power due to there hardness and material. with ceramic you will get practically no brake dust and no noise. they dont get as hot and work 10x better. if you have any questions, just ask. good luck
Jon
I bought one of the first crewmax tundras and I have had nothing but complaints about the front rotors. I tow just about every weekend and will get the shimmy on and off. The rotors are just not very good at disapating the heat. I am a dealer for power slot and will drop ship them to anyone on forum. The power slot rotor is one of the best rotors on the market and will solve alot of the problems because it pushes the heat off the rotor. I would use these in combination with an oem pad for best performance. Alot of the aftermarket pads just wear faster and put off more dust.
Torquing the alloy wheels is very important to reducing warping. I would try turning the rotors, there is lots of material on there. They take off very little. For small cars, the rotors are too thin to turn but replacements are cheap.
For pads, I tend to prefer the ceramix or the non metallic cheapies. Depends on your load, driving style and if you can change pads yourself.
The performance rotors are only going to be better if you are getting the rotors hot enough through a lot of repetitive stopping and not giving them a chance to cool.
I tend to get lots of miles out of my pads and don't need the performance stuff. If you are running some very heavy or larger wheels and tire, you will go through more brake parts than normal.
2007 tundra rotars
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