I did a front brake job on my 2006 Tundra. It is a DC and it is a 2wd. I purchased the pads from O'riely's and had them turn the rotors. Everything went together well with no problems. About 2 weeks later, I was riding with the windows down and thought I heard a bird chirping. About 10 miles later, I kept hearing the sound. I then realized that it was my front brakes. When I pressed the brake pedal the noise will stop. So I took them back down and applies some grease to the pads and calipers. It worked for 2 weeks and the noise is back. Now it is driving me nuts. Something else I noticed was that the rotors were very hard to turn by hand. I think that my rotors are warped and it is rubbing the brake pads. Anyone have any suggestions.
Thanks
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2006 Tundra DC SR5 2WD, Phantom Grey, Leather Seats, All Weather Package, Keyless Entry, TRD Off Road Package, Privacy Glass, LSD, Fog Lights, Nerf Bars, Spray In Bed Liner, Husky Floor Liners, Autopage RS-860LCD autostart, & Front Windows Tinted to Match the Rear, Undercover Tonneau Cover, Kenwood DNX-7019 Navigation with Rearview Camera, Sirius Satellite Radio, and Bluetooth.
If the chirp is off and on with the rotation of the wheels then it is very likely that when the rotors where machined, excessive runout was introduced into the rotors. Basically meaning they messed up your rotors when they were machined.
You can have runout without a pulsation. This runout will push the pads back and forth as the rotor rotates and the high and low spots move through the pads. This can also cause the chirping you are hearing.
To cause a pulsation runout needs to become out of parallelism. This is when the rotor develops thicker and thinner spots. As the high spots begin to wear down, the rotor will then develop these thicker and thinner areas. Though the noise may go away at this point, a pulsation will develop.
You may be able to see this runout. Remove the wheels and install the lug nuts, use washers as spacers if need be. Spin the rotor by hand and watch the pads to see if the rotor is kicking them back and forth. If you can't see this then a dial indictor will need to be used to see if the runout exceed .004".
Toyota requires these rotors be machine only in place with an on-car-lath. Other wise you will now likely need to replace the rotors.
Mike
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“The significant problems we have cannot be solved at the same level of thinking with which we created them” (Albert Einstein) Moderator Brake Forum
are the pads factory and did you use the shims? if not, then i
would suggest starting over.
if the rotors are pushing the pads "out", then the noise
would stop after a couple of revolutions. plus, you can feel
it in your foot as the pads go in and out. yspert
I did use oriely's top notch pads. I also reused the shims and applied brake grease. I am with Mike, I think I need to replace my rotors. I will have to use a dial because I cannot turn them by hand once the wheel is off. I can turn them half way, and then they get stuck because of the rotors.
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2006 Tundra DC SR5 2WD, Phantom Grey, Leather Seats, All Weather Package, Keyless Entry, TRD Off Road Package, Privacy Glass, LSD, Fog Lights, Nerf Bars, Spray In Bed Liner, Husky Floor Liners, Autopage RS-860LCD autostart, & Front Windows Tinted to Match the Rear, Undercover Tonneau Cover, Kenwood DNX-7019 Navigation with Rearview Camera, Sirius Satellite Radio, and Bluetooth.
mike is right in what he said. no doubt.
but listen again to what i'm saying. I MAKE A LOT OF MONEY OFF OF PEOPLE
WHO PUT ON THE TOP NOTCH CRAP FROM A PARTS STORE.
BEFORE YOU TAKE IT APART AGAIN AND AGAIN AND AGAIN AND AGAIN,
GO TO THE DEALER AND GET A NEW SET OF THEIR TOP OF THE LINE
PADS AND SHIMS AND INSTALL THEM CORRECTLY.
can you hear me now?
i deal with these kinds of brake problems EVERYDAY.
the majority of the time, it is due to either the CHEAP CRAP that
is installed or it is installed incorrectly or rotors resurfaced by some
kid in the back of a parts store. yspert
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Graduated from Y to Z status.
Last edited by yspert; 05-12-2009 at 11:22 AM.
Reason: can't spell
mike is right in what he said. no doubt.
but listen again to what i'm saying. I MAKE A LOT OF MONEY OFF OF PEOPLE
WHO PUT ON THE TOP NOTCH CRAP FROM A PARTS STORE.
BEFORE YOU TAKE IT APART AGAIN AND AGAIN AND AGAIN AND AGAIN,
GO TO THE DEALER AND GET A NEW SET OF THEIR TOP OF THE LINE
PADS AND SHIMS AND INSTALL THEM CORRECTLY.
can you hear me now?
i deal with these kinds of brake problems EVERYDAY.
the majority of the time, it is due to either the CHEAP CRAP that
is installed or it is installed incorrectly or rotors resurfaced by some
kid in the back of a parts store. yspert
Should I replace the rotors? I will bring back the pads and purchase new pads at toyota.
Thanks
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2006 Tundra DC SR5 2WD, Phantom Grey, Leather Seats, All Weather Package, Keyless Entry, TRD Off Road Package, Privacy Glass, LSD, Fog Lights, Nerf Bars, Spray In Bed Liner, Husky Floor Liners, Autopage RS-860LCD autostart, & Front Windows Tinted to Match the Rear, Undercover Tonneau Cover, Kenwood DNX-7019 Navigation with Rearview Camera, Sirius Satellite Radio, and Bluetooth.
since you have not said anything about a vibration when braking or
feeling something in the pedal, just do the pads. rotors don't wait
two weeks to start causing a noise without another issue to go along
with it. now, if you can see anything "funny" with the rotor surface or
it has an inner or outer lip that was not machined out, then you may
have to start over with the rotors. not for noise but more so because
they need to start out smooth. (that's a whole topic of it's own)
also, i'm assuming that all of the clips were reused and in good shape.
same goes for the shims. pads/shims/hardware (clips) might be your
best route. HAND TORQUE THE WHEELS TO FACTORY SPEC
good braking and keep in touch. my shop has side bets on the outcome.
yspert
also, you posted that the noise went away for two
weeks after you applied grease to the pads before it
came back. kinda tells me that it is the pads since
applying the grease was the only change. yspert
Yspet, I do agree with you about the pads. I have a Sedona van at the shop right now, that they can't get to stop after the pads get warm. The pads are smoked, heat cracked and ride over the side of the rotor. As you say "cheap crap". So I do agree pads could be the problem and if not could be latter on. Use Toyota pads for the best result.
But back to the rotors. I do think this is causing a problem. He says he can't spin the rotor as it stops. This tells me there is a runout problem. Also, these rotors are difficult to machine correctly. Toyota knows this, this is why they require an on the car lath be used for machining.
I know you have also seen the brake lath in an auto parts store. They are dirty, un-maintained, and the guys using them have no clue what they are doing or do the care. Guarantee his rotors are now junk.
Mike
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“The significant problems we have cannot be solved at the same level of thinking with which we created them” (Albert Einstein) Moderator Brake Forum
Noise, but not when brakes are pressed
Re: Noise, but not when brakes are pressed
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