I would like to know how hard it is to replace the front brake pads?
Piece of cake, nothing to it.
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2004 Tundra V8 Limited Access Cab 4X4, Michelin 265/65/R17 LTX-AT2's, Auto Dim Comp/Temp Mirror, Aero Turbine #2525 muffler, Access Roll Up Cover, Optima D31A battery, Multi-Vex adaptive outside mirrors, Eclipse AVN5510 Nav unit and Sirius SIR-ECL1 tuner, as of 10/07 pictures in my photo gallery
If a combo of all these whizz bangs met their claims you'd have to siphon gas out of your tank every second day and sell the excess horsepower on the third????
If your engine doesn't consume ANY oil it will seize???
Some people should not be allowed access to tools without books!!!
30 minutes to an hour if you have the right tools...and the rotors are in good shape or you are replacing them...
1.put truck on jack stands and remove wheels
2.unbolt calipers (hammer and box-end wrench, or impact wrench)
use small C-clamps to compress the pistons back in.. (note you will prolly overflow the brake reservoir if it is already full). Also remove the clip holding the brake line to the chassis so you can slide things around and not have to open up the brake system
3.pull the pins and springs and the pads..
4.clean everything good especially the rods the brakes ride on
I use some high temp grease on the rods VERY thin coating... i.e. wipe it on wipe it off...
5.prep the new brake pads...
I file a 45 degree angle on the leading edgefor about 1/4" or so if they aren't already done to prevent chipping and put stop-squeal on the backs of the pads
6.replace the rotor if needed... or have them turned.. or leave them and realize it will take time to seat the new pads and braking actions will be a little weak the first 50 miles or less
7.re-assemble everything... bleed the brakes if they need it or if you opened the system..
and yer done take it easy until the pads are seated good in any case
Least that is the way a shade tree parts replacer does it...
Robbob has listed pretty much all of the salient parts...only thing I would add is be VERY careful not to get anything on the braking surface of the pads...i.e. keep your greasy fingers off of em.
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Genthar
Rhino Lining, Waag one piece grille guard and wheel to wheel nerf bars, 3M Xpel on headlights, front corner lights, and foglights, Valentine One radar detector, XM Satellite radio, Navigon 7100 GPS, Lightforce 240 Blitz aux lights, Aux. reverse lights.
AEM Brute force intake, courtesy of AEM Power and TundraSolutions.com
Teamwest Coilovers, Camburg Upper A arms, Daystar Steering Rack Bushings, Total Chaos Diff Drop spacer, JBA Headers, Y-Pipe, and EVOL exhaust.
I put sloted cryo-hardened Brembo rotor on it the 5th time (after tsb failed to fix it)... not only am I at 12,000 miles since then with no problem, but the pad wear is less than half... so looks like they should work for about 25k~30k a set... much better than with the stock rotors... have a set of Raybestos PG pads already for the next time and it should help even more...
6.replace the rotor if needed... or have them turned.. or leave them and realize it will take time to seat the new pads and braking actions will be a little weak the first 50 miles or less.
If the rotors aren't warped, look good, and you've decided to just replace the pads, there's no need to pull off the calipers. If you do, make sure not to let 'em hang from the brake hoses!
__________________ ADDING POWER HAS NEVER BEEN SO FAST!
tundra brakes
It is nice that it is easy. I'm on my third set at 53k. Gets you alot of practice.
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