Brake fluid change

[ricqik]

Well I did a 90 4runners brakes. New rotors, pads, drums are still in good shape, adjusted the star wheel for the drums, brake pedal pumped bleeding was done till no more air came out and still the pedal travels 75% down before you can even feel the brakes working. Whats wrong or what did I do wrong?

[romar]

Originally Posted by ricqik

Well I did a 90 4runners brakes. New rotors, pads, drums are still in good shape, adjusted the star wheel for the drums, brake pedal pumped bleeding was done till no more air came out and still the pedal travels 75% down before you can even feel the brakes working. Whats wrong or what did I do wrong?

If the brake pedal gets firm within a couple of pumps, it's an adjustment problem. If the pedal continues to fell mushy and go to the floor, there is still air in the system.

[ricqik]

It feels like nothing until 25% left then I can feel a regular solid feel. Adjustment? What's that, where, how do I do that?

[romar]

Originally Posted by ricqik

It feels like nothing until 25% left then I can feel a regular solid feel. Adjustment? What's that, where, how do I do that?

I'd double check(if you haven't already) the adjustment on the rear shoes. How are the brake hoses? I've seen them rupture internally. That would cause them to swell when the pedal is depressed. I'd also check and make sure that all of the air is purged. Lots of guys like to go medevil on the brake pedal when bleeding brakes.This tends to create air bubbles in the brake fluid. I prefer to slowly depress the pedal once and hold it down till a buddy cracks the bleeder valve to purge the air. I've also Loosened up all four bleeders slightly and let the entire system drip bleed for a few hours.

[ricqik]

Oh another thing, if I pump the pedal it works like a normal pedal should but if I don't it travels down to 25%. I'll rebleed the brakes again and see what happens. Also thought it was the master cyliner and replaced that too but no difference.

[romar]

Originally Posted by ricqik

Oh another thing, if I pump the pedal it works like a normal pedal should but if I don't it travels down to 25%. I'll rebleed the brakes again and see what happens. Also thought it was the master cyliner and replaced that too but no difference.

Sounds to me like a rear shoe adjustment.

[ricqik]

I adjusted the shoes to a firm drum slip in. Any more and I won't be able to get the drums back on. But I'll recheck it again when I'm off work this thurs. Maybe the star adjuster keeps turning back when the brake is depressed. I know that just doesn't sound possible. Maybe the rear piston cylinders are bad? Ya know, there got to be only so much that a regular brake system like this could have that I should be able to figure out. I guess it's down to the process of elimination step.

One thing, when they say "power brakes", is there some type of mechanical pump that cycles or help pump brake fluid to the pistons?

[janoss]

Originally Posted by grillmasterp

I am still recommending the POwer bleeder over the other systems.
Basically:
Fill the container w brake fluid-
Connect to Master Cylinder reservoir.
Pump until you establish 15psi Pressure
..When you open the bleederscrews- fluid is pushed from the master cylinder.
You can go from wheel to wheel if there is enough pressure & fluid.

The Blue & Amber racing fluid is avaialbe from the Motive site too.

Ditto, I just used the Power Bleeder for the first time. After making sure I had a good seal on the master cylinder, I loaded the jug up with ATE, pumped it up to 15 psi then started with the RR, LR, FR, LR, then PV bleeder valves. The bleeder worked great, much better then sucking the fluid through the system with a vacuum pump and much better than pumping the brake pedal. Two thumbs up.

[wheelin4x4]

Originally Posted by bobnadine

I just recently found a single person modified air pressure bleeder kit utilizing the pressure from one of your tires. There are 5 adaptors depending on yur particular model. The system is called speedi-bleed. The website is as follows brake-bleeding.com. This site is out of Canada. For the one adaptor system the cost was $119 US and for the complete Professional kit with all 5 adaptor ~$289 US. For a US location just type in speedi-bleed in a search engine and follow the sites. Check it out.

I think the website is Brake Bleeding Made Easier With SpeediBleed Brake Bleeding Tool l I have their brake bleeder kit for my Toyota pickup, works like a charm. The quality is very high, at a repair shop level, and I liked that you just had to use the regulator to control the air used from the tire,it made setting the pressure without leakage very easy, plus a 4 wheel flush only used 2 psi from the tire.

[shall36]

For the fella with the soft pedal, sounds like the rear drums aren't adjusted out far enough. Rear drums will get a lip on them...

Put the drum on then adjust the brakes until the drum starts to drag when you turn it by hand. If you need to get the drums back off, you have to back the adjuster out the other direction. Sometimes, you have to use a small flat screwdriver to push the adjusting lever off of the adjusting wheel.

I use a pressure bleeder setup. I think it's the motive unit. Affordable with multiple adapters. I siphon out as much fluid as possible using my vacuum pump with fluid trap. Fill up the reservoir and then hook up the pressure bleeder. Bleed each point until fluid runs clean without air bubbles. Do once a year and be happy!

[LifeTech]

Originally Posted by Stooge

This is the single most over-looked maintenance item. My experience has been that if you change and flush the brake fluid completely every two years, you will never have any hydraulic brake system leaks, failures or wear-outs.

Ditto ,I hear that!

LT

[LifeTech]

Originally Posted by mikeinaustin

Haynes and Chilton manuals specify that the rear proportioning valve is to be done last in the rotation. So RR, LR, RF, LF, rear proportioning valve.

Anyone use Toyota DOT3 brake fluid for their flush?

I use it, but DOT 3 is Dot 3 whichever brand yu choose.

I get the Toyota stuff most times becuse it is cheaper than Pep Boys or Strauss auto or wherever else most of the time at least for me.

LT

[Big_Al1]

I used the suringe method sucked all fluid out of master cylinder refilled with valvoline synthetic brake fluid waited a few thousand miles when dirty fluid returned to master cylinder repeated brakes felt a lot firmer "no mess".

[MOREPOWER]

Don't the rear drums auto adjust by applying your emergency brakes several times, all you should need is to get them close first.

How does an auto bleeder work the type with the pump up tank, heres what I'm guessing, you fill the pump up sprayer with fluid the hose attachés to the top of the master cylinder which provides pressure and fluid to bleed without applying the brakes.

[MEvang]

Every time you use the park brake, if the shoes are out enough to warrant it the lever will only grab one tooth on the start wheel and move it maybe 1-10th of a turn.
This is very little. Therefore, if the adjustment is way out you could need literally hundreds of park brake applications to make a difference.
This is why it's important to adjust the shoes after they have been installed.
Pressure bleeder work as you describe. They do a very good job of bleeding the brakes as they push the fluid through the system.
Vacuum bleeding is good for flushing systems out, but have a tendency of leaving some air. You should always foot bleed at lest once after vacuum bleeding.
The main thing when bleeding brake is not to let the master go dry. Then you suck air into the master and that can be difficulty to get out.
Mike