Draw the old fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir and fill with new DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid. I like ATE (blue one time, amber the next) or Valvoline. http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo240brake.htm#fluid
Bleed the brakes in this order until new, clean fluid appears...RR, LR, rear proportioning valve, RF, LF. Don't let the reservoir go empty and suck air into the system. Test the brakes, If the pedal is spongy, bleed again to remove any air bubbles you missed.
Ken
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This is the single most over-looked maintenance item. My experience has been that if you change and flush the brake fluid completely every two years, you will never have any hydraulic brake system leaks, failures or wear-outs.
I like power bleeders for this job. That way you dont have to worry about letting the mastercylinder go empty. You do have to be sure that that bugger is on tight as any leaking brake fluid will ruin your paint.
I think its always a good idea to stick with the proper bleeding rotation even tho with a flush its probably not as important
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I'm not sure. Farthest to nearest is the traditional technique. Interestingly, my Volvo with ABS needs to have the brakes bled nearest to farthest...and it does make a difference.
Ken
__________________
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
I just recently found a single person modified air pressure bleeder kit utilizing the pressure from one of your tires. There are 5 adaptors depending on yur particular model. The system is called speedi-bleed. The website is as follows www.brake-bleeding.com. This site is out of Canada. For the one adaptor system the cost was $119 US and for the complete Professional kit with all 5 adaptor ~$289 US. For a US location just type in speedi-bleed in a search engine and follow the sites. Check it out.
You can also get a medical vacuum pump that can pull almost 25" Hg vacuum. I have one and use it for many, many things. It makes brake bleeding a real snap!!
I use my MityVac. To minimize the air drawn around the threads of the loosened bleed nipples, I remove them, quickly put a turn of teflon pipe thread tape on the threads, and reinstall the nipples before much fluid leaks down my sleeve.
Ken
__________________
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
Draw the old fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir and fill with new DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid. I like ATE (blue one time, amber the next) or Valvoline. http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo240brake.htm#fluid
Bleed the brakes in this order until new, clean fluid appears...RR, LR, rear proportioning valve, RF, LF. Don't let the reservoir go empty and suck air into the system. Test the brakes, If the pedal is spongy, bleed again to remove any air bubbles you missed.
Ken
Good stuff, thanks...I'll be using a one man bleeder so I could imagine this being somewhat time consuming. The idea of swapping for blue fluid is a great idea!
I am still recommending the POwer bleeder over the other systems.
Basically:
Fill the container w brake fluid-
Connect to Master Cylinder reservoir.
Pump until you establish 15psi Pressure
..When you open the bleederscrews- fluid is pushed from the master cylinder.
You can go from wheel to wheel if there is enough pressure & fluid.
The Blue & Amber racing fluid is avaialbe from the Motive site too.
Draw the old fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir and fill with new DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid. I like ATE (blue one time, amber the next) or Valvoline. http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo240brake.htm#fluid
Bleed the brakes in this order until new, clean fluid appears...RR, LR, rear proportioning valve, RF, LF. Don't let the reservoir go empty and suck air into the system. Test the brakes, If the pedal is spongy, bleed again to remove any air bubbles you missed.
Ken
Haynes and Chilton manuals specify that the rear proportioning valve is to be done last in the rotation. So RR, LR, RF, LF, rear proportioning valve.
Anyone use Toyota DOT3 brake fluid for their flush?
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Brake fluid change
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