Motiv Brake Bleeder

[longwoodklon]

For those who have this unit, I have a few questions. I used this on my Tundra yesterday, and the main problem I had was getting a tight seal. I followed the directions, pumped only air to 10psi to make sure the unit was sealed well at the master cylinder. Then added brake fluid and pumped to just under 15psi, brake fluid started to leak at the master cylinder(what a mess! , but it cleaned up). My questions:
1) What PSI do you use? Is 10psi enough?
2) I expected the tube going from the bleeder to the master cylinder to completely fill with fluid, but it didn't? I guess it's not important, as long as there is pressure in the system and the cylinder has fluid in it. Is that correct?
-- Any other observations you may have, I'd appreciate it. Thanks.
/Mike

[ThomasE]

I have that brake bleeder but have only used it on my Accord and not my Tundra yet. I also couldn't get a perfect seal, probably because the top of the fluid resevoir isn't perfectly flat. You can play around with the tightness of the wing nuts, I noticed too tight or too loose would affect how well it sealed. When I was using it I pumped it up to 10psi and it dribbled slowly. Didn't pump it up more than that because it would just leak more. 10psi is enough, as long as fluid comes out when you open up each bleeder screw that's enough pressure. If the fluid bleeding out came to a slow trickle I just went back & give it a few more pumps. Also I never noticed air in the clear tube, but it doesn't matter as long as your master cylinder resevoir never runs dry. Even with the dribble, it's still a LOT easier than having someone else pump on the brakes. Just do it outside and hose off everything later.

[Alan]

I think I used 12-15psi. I had the same kind of leaking at the reservoir. I think the overhang on the Motiv sealing piece might prevent a good seal over the reservoir lip (see photo). But I cinched the J-hooks a bit more and was able to do it with no further leaks. And I do believe I had fluid in the line from the Motiv tank to the reservoir, because I remember having a leak in my brass fittings that I had to tighten up. Great tool though!

Stay shiny,

[gnb]

Yes- perfectly normal for the clear tube from the pump to the master cylinder to not be completely filled with brake fluid.

I just flushed my Volvo 850 on Saturday with my Motive Products pump. With the Volvo it has a screw on cap so no leaks. Nonetheless, I never use more than 10 to 15 psi on the pump and it works great.

The less the pressure - the less the stress on your brake components/seals. I will probably use 10 psi on the Sequoia.

I have the adapter to use on my Sequoia. Plan to flush with ATE Super Blue Racing brake fluid . Will report back what luck I have getting a good seal.

NateB

[gnb]

Flushed my Sequoia brake today with my Motive Products with the universal adapter.

Pumped it to 10-13 PSI. Did not leak a drop of precious ATE Super Blue Racing brake fluid.


These are nice devices- simple and inexpensive. Also did my Volvo 850 last week-end.

[acehigh]

Used the motive bleeder a couple of days ago on my tundra. I too had a little trouble getting a proper seal. You just have to play with it a little till you get it right. I used 10 psi. Quickest way around to bleed brakes. I also used the ATE blue fluid. Also, do what they say at the end. Tip the bleeder tank away from the pick up tube and open the front left caliper bleeder to drain away the excess fluid in your reservoir. Great product!

[george60]

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I did my '03 Tundra a week ago with this unit. First time.

It leaked air a little at the master cylinder top. I tightened the wing nuts a little more and it sealed.
I used 20 psi and in 10 minutes it lost only 2 lbs of pressure. Actually you only need enough pressure to push brake fluid along.
I used ATE Blue Racing fluid. No particular reason. I just like the cool blue color. And of course it told me when to close the bleed valve.
The clear plastic line between the bleeder and the master cylinder had a big
'ol air gap in it but it pushed through only fluid no air.
I bled the the brake proportioning valve first because its at the highest point.
And overkill. I went to Toyota and got new bleed valve covers. Paid through the nose for them. (the little rubber caps).
I released the system pressure by slowly turning the cap on the bleeder. I didn't want to go under the truck again.

George60

[gnb]

I used it on my 2002 Sequoia with very good results and no leaks.

Suggest after getting an even and snug fitment - that you use no more PSI than is required to bleed the brake fluid. I do not recall what PSI I used- but don't believe it was as high as 10-15 psi.

Only a minimum pressurization is required as you do not want to blow any seals.
Just enough pressure to push the fluid thru the system- one wheel at a time. Maybe 5-7 PSI, at least for me.

Good Luck.

[gsgallant]

After searching the threads to find out that the motive power bleeder was the best method to flush my brake system, I started making calls to try to find a power bleeder locally. After many calls, I found no local suppliers, and wanted to avoid paying full price + shipping + exchange on Canadian Dollar for one from the US, so I decided to try and figure out a way to make a tool that would essentially do the same thing.

What I came up with works (in my opinion) as well as I would expect the power bleeder to work, and only cost me $15 (Canadian) to build. I started off by buying:
- One flexible plumbing reducing coupling (the large end is just under 2" in diameter and is made to fit over 1 1/2" PVC pipe, and the small end fits over the 3/4" end of the 1/2" to 3/4" metal elbow.)
- One 1/2" to 3/4" metal elbow.
- One 1/2" metal nipple.
- One 1/4" to 1/2" metal reducing coupling.
- One 1/4" male quick connect fitting.
- You also need a source of compressed air with a pressure guage and regulator.

See this link for some photos -> Brake Bleeder Adapter

I assembled them together as shown in the photo called "Adapter".
The photo called "Reservoir" shows what the opening on my brake reservoir looks like.
The photo called "Adapter on Reservoir" shows the adapter installed on the reservoir.
Once I had the adapter built, I removed the cap on the brake reservoir and used a turkey baster to remove as much of the old brake fluid as I could. I then topped up the reservoir (above the max line) with new fluid.

Next, I installed the adapter to the reservoir (See image in link above), and connected my air compressor quick connect fitting to the adapter. I adjusted the regulator to 10-15 psi, then cracked open the rear passenger brake bleeding fitting and let the fluid flow until new fluid came out. I closed the bleeder, and repeated the same on the rear driver's side brakes.

Once the rear brakes were done (bled a little over half a liter of fluid out), I removed the adapter from the brake reservoir and topped the reservoir up again (the level had dropped to approximately the MIN line). I re-installed the adapter, re-adjusted the air regulator to 10-15 psi, then bled the front brakes (passenger side then driver's side).

Once the front brakes were done (bled a little over 1/4 of a liter of fluid out), I removed the adapter from the brake reservoir and topped the reservoir up again (the level had dropped to halfway between the MIN and MAX lines). I then re-installed the reservoir cap and called it a day. The whole process took approximately 1.5 hours (including removing and re-installing wheels.) I used a little over 1 liter of brake fluid.

Hope this helps you guys. I definitely recommed this method for flushing your brakes. The adapter mentioned above will fit the reservoir on 2001 and 2002 4Runners with hydraulic brake boosters. The fill port on reservoirs on other vehicles will likely be different, but could easily be adapted to.

Also, keep in mind that the fluid reservoir on the 2001-2002 4Runners is huge. Other vehicles may require that you refill the reservoir after each brake is bled.