I did a search and didn't find anything related to my issue. My truck has 120K miles on it and when I push the pedal it goes all the way down to the floor. It doesn't even auto adjust the rear brakes anymore. A quick inspection o fthe steel cables reveals quite a bit of slack. You know how bicycle cables slack over time and need to be adjusted? Same thing only larger scale. I saw two bottle screw doohickeys, but I am curious if anyone has adjusted theirs and if I am on the right track.
Upgrades: PA 3" Body Lift, Powertrax No-Slip rear, Detroit ezLocker front, Fabtech/Fox front, Wheeler's AALs, TC Front Diff Drop, 16 x 8 MB Wheels, 285/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs, Pioneer Head Unit, Infiniti Reference speakers [front and rear], 150 W bridged amp to bandpass enclosure, 6 CD changer with IR remote, iPod mini and xm hardwired into stereo, Toyota drop in bedliner, and Tonneau cover
I did a search and didn't find anything related to my issue. My truck has 120K miles on it and when I push the pedal it goes all the way down to the floor. It doesn't even auto adjust the rear brakes anymore. A quick inspection o fthe steel cables reveals quite a bit of slack. You know how bicycle cables slack over time and need to be adjusted? Same thing only larger scale. I saw two bottle screw doohickeys, but I am curious if anyone has adjusted theirs and if I am on the right track.
Yeap, that is very similar to a "thingamajig" and a "whatchamacallit".
Mike
__________________
Experience is the best teacher, IF you can afford the tuition!
White 2001 4X4 LTD/TRD. Fog and map light mods. S&S Autochrome headers and Y-Pipe, ASP UD Pulley,SpinTech single/dual out with rear exit. PPD T-Body and Fuse covers. MT Classic ll's with 265X75X16 Maxxis Mudders, Wheelers front coils, RAS on rear springs & Ride Rite air springs. Powertrax No Slip Locker. Mobil 1 Synthetic throughout!
I just tightened mine up - look under the drivers side about where your front and rear door meet (access cab) and you will see the cable and a turnbuckel(sp?) with two 10mm nuts jammed together. Loosen the rear nut and then tighten the front nut to remove the slack (may take a few times testing it to get it where it feels right), when you are finished run the rear nut back up to the front one to jam nut it back together.
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2001 TRD 4x4 with a lift kit & a bone stock 2008 TRD 4x4
First, inspect the rear brake linings to be sure they still have enough material.
Second, adjust the rear brake shoes.
Third, adjust the cables.
Ken
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You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
I just tightened mine up - look under the drivers side about where your front and rear door meet (access cab) and you will see the cable and a turnbuckel(sp?) with two 10mm nuts jammed together. Loosen the rear nut and then tighten the front nut to remove the slack (may take a few times testing it to get it where it feels right), when you are finished run the rear nut back up to the front one to jam nut it back together.
Did that and the thread that Glenn posted up give you back your e brakes?
Upgrades: PA 3" Body Lift, Powertrax No-Slip rear, Detroit ezLocker front, Fabtech/Fox front, Wheeler's AALs, TC Front Diff Drop, 16 x 8 MB Wheels, 285/75R16 Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs, Pioneer Head Unit, Infiniti Reference speakers [front and rear], 150 W bridged amp to bandpass enclosure, 6 CD changer with IR remote, iPod mini and xm hardwired into stereo, Toyota drop in bedliner, and Tonneau cover
Anyone adjusted their Emergency Brake?
Linear Mode
