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BrakesDiscussions about the brake system in your vehicle and brake products.
This is a discussion thread titled "Need Help Solving Brake Issue", within the Brakes forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
Ok here's the situation: I have a 02 AC Tundra that has 54,xxx miles on it and did not have braking problems until recently. I bought the Tundra last year in March with 16,xxx miles on it ( I know I've put in a lot of mile in this time period). When I first purchased it, it had no problems whatsover until about 6 months ago. The brakes were inspected and new brake pads were put on about 1 year ago.
What it does: When I am slowing down from highway speeds it vibrates when I hit 35 mph until the truck comes to a stop. It is very very anoying and embarassing to say the least. When I back out of parking spots at school or work it makes an annoying high pitched squeaking that always grabs people's attention and once again annoys and embarrasses me. Now since yesterday it is slightly squeaking when doing normal breaking almost unnoticeable but it is starting and now I want this fixed. It was not squeaking from normal breaking and I have a feeling it will gradually get louder until it is fixed.
What can I do? I am not under warranty so I don't think the TSB is an option. I recently got the Lower Front Ball Joint Safety Recall Notice from Toyota and still need to go do that. Now what are my options to fix this problem that many have encountered as well. Should I just buy premium rotors and pads like SP Rotors and Hawk pads and it wil go away? Am i going to have to pay out of pocket to do the TSB? ANY suggestions, comments, previous experiences, results will be greatly appreciated. I have about $500 right now which is part of what I was saving for new tires but will use to fix this if its neccesary and sufficient. Thanks Luis
Thx for your input, that's what I've been thinking also. I'd rather permanently fix it than temporarily, when I want things done I want them done right the first time, even if it hurts the wallet. Premium slotted rotors with premium pads sounds nice too. Anybody else have any suggestions, feel free to post what you think... I'm taking everything into consideration if it works.
I've also got the pre-TSB brakes on my '00 Tundra. I went with the SP Slotted Rotors and Hawk pads. Total was about $300 (installed 'em myself) and am very satisfied.
Luis,
The first thing to do is to jack up the front of your truck, safely set it on jackstands, remove the tires, and look at the brakes. Are the rotors grooved? Remove the clips and pull out the pads. Do they still have adequate friction material and are they worn evenly? If the rotors are not grooved, you can install new pads yourself at this point (get tips here first).
If the rotors are grooved, you'll need new rotors...turning them might be OK, but usually removes so much metal that the rotors overheat and warp.
Brake judder is often caused by brake pad material that is overheated and melted onto the rotor surface. It is so thin that you can't see it, but it is there and grabs when the brakes are applied. This can be removed by sandpapering the rotor surface on both sides. Get instructions here on removing the calipers so the rotor can be removed.
Another cause of front end shake on our trucks when braking is insufficient caster in the front end alignment. Think of a wobbly grocery cart wheel. The truck may need a 4-wheel thrust alignment on a Hunter alignment rack. Have them set the toe-in and camber at the exact center of the spec, and the caster at the maximum allowable setting. Don't accept any other settings.
None of this work has to be done at a dealership. A good independent local shop will do the work fine, or a chain repair shop where the mechanics are well trained and not rushed.
Ken
__________________
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
Thx, the rotors are bad with brake judder and the pads are crystalized...I just ordered a set of Power Slot rotors with cadnium plating and cryogenically treated from FrozenRotors dot com along with a set of Hawk HPS pads (I have pre-tsb brakes). I appreciate your input and I do need alignment anyways since new coils(4x4 non-trd DC) went in, but I don't think that causes the vibration problem its not that unaligned to cause that. I will be getting new tires and new coils (4x4 TRD AC) soon, to do the 2wd leveling mod that was posted here a long time ago along with a 1" rear block and 1" front Daystar spacer...So I will definitely need an alignment then, for now new rotors and pads are my priority .
Sounds like a nice setup, I also went with the HPS pads and really like them. Make sure you follow the "bedding in" instructions on the Hawk box as this is critical to properly breaking in the brake pads so you don't end up with vibration again.
Performance Friction makes some really fine rotors, but none that fit our trucks unless we start a campaign to convince them that there is a suitable market. http://www.performancefriction.com/pages/rotors.htm
Anyway, PF told me that they've seen no advantage in cryogenically treated brake rotors.
Ken
__________________
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
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